JasonG

It is common to leave your tent up while you go for the summit, and I wouldn't expect anyone to mess with it. That said, make sure it is deadmanned securely into the snow. Many tents have been lost over the years, and you may want to lie it flat if the winds are strong in the am. Probably depends a lot on how skookum of tent you are bringing and how well you anchor it.

I wonder if Loc-tite will stand up over time as well as a lock washer or nylon locking nut? Or maybe there are other considerations that make the latter options unattractive?

If you have to shoe horn a Rainier trip into just a few days with little wiggle room for weather, I can't stress enough going in July. As Dan and others have said, June is really hit or miss around here, weather-wise, especially on Rainier. Meteorological summer (i.e., dry, stable wx) starts ~7/12 most years in the PNW and you would be best served if you changed your tickets to a later date. You don't want to go in August most years (too bony), mid July is usually the ticket for the easier routes.

Here is a quote regarding the east ridge of Cinderella from Darin's recent TR: "I found the climbing to be not entirely classic with lots of blocky scrambling separated by a few steep, exposed and looser-than-I-liked 5th class faces. Enjoyable at times but I wouldn’t repeat it." Sounds like you guys both had a pretty similar take on it.

Thanks Curt! I've often wondered about this route and you and Darin have done a great job fleshing out what to expect. I have to admit that it has lost some of the appeal that it formerly had. But it still sounds like something worth doing once?

Stunning shots, but especially that one of Olympus with the lenticulars. Wow! Maybe you can edit the image tags to make them bigger? Since I have two young boys, these TRs are really cool. I have to remind myself that the days of 3 mile RT hikes are only temporary.

Well, I have written my electeds on several occasions regarding access, volunteered on trail crews, and commented to the USFS a number of times, but I guess I really didn't think it was going to make a big difference. Still, I keep trying every year or so to rattle the cage, don't know what else to do I guess. I do think that the per capita use of wilderness is going down and it is reflected in the current recreation budget of the USFS. I don't have any data, just going off of my own experience with friends and family. The WWII generation did a lot of hiking, backpacking, and camping and it has seemed to be on the decline ever since. I sense that a shift is going on where folks like the idea of wilderness, but aren't that concerned if there is much access to it (the Manning school of thought). I agree that it is a question of priorities, and those that value access seem to be in the minority. When this country wants to get something done, it usually does, pretty fast.

Yikes! Although I think this is effectively already occurring. The number of paid trail crews seems to be on the decline, and overgrown trails on the increase. Volunteers can only do so much, and that bums me out considering I have little hikers in the house these days.

I think you'll now find that the Crescent Creek approach is WAY better than Bear. I was surprised by how much it had improved in the five years since I last used it. Almost a "trail" the whole way and not too hard to follow. 7.5 hours or so to Terror camp. Bear, on the other hand, yikes. I still remember the approach vividly, and it sounds like it has only gotten worse in the intervening years.

The Bugs may involve shenanigans depending on how the melt has progressed this year. Likely the Winds and Sawtooths would be more of a sure bet, though with less alpine flavor. That said, you could keep yourself busy at all three, the weather might be the best decision maker.

Poom! Was waiting to see this extension to the TR and it didn't disappoint. So glad you are working your way back to the PNW Joe!

Typically you don't shorten it beyond half for simuling on rock. As you experienced, there isn't a great way to make the rope shorter than that. Plus, you usually want ~3 pieces or so between you and your partner, and half a rope length usually works pretty well for stretching the simul blocks. The key is to have long enough runners, and plan placements, to minimize rope drag.

Whoah, this hits close to home. Thanks for the warning!

That is an interesting twist. I've read that the early versions of the ELTs had less than a 30% success rate upon crash, so it doesn't surprise me that it wouldn't have been relied upon to signal a crash and its location. Given how it sounds like the crash unfolded, I would imagine that they wouldn't have been able to radio a distress call, let alone a position. How long did it take your roommate to summon help?

Ah, the modified "Ozzy" diet, first perfected by Aleister Crowley during his chalk period. I've been too much of a pansy to try and pluck a live chicken, but I've heard it gets results.

The Perfect Pass area IS the crash site, but it has been mostly cleaned up.

Cool! Nice to see pics from the Lemah snow finger way, sounds like a good trip. You know Chimney Rock is calling you next!

The title of this thread says it all. Sheesh.

I'll second the report to look a little closer at the beta for Doug's. If you nail it, it's class 2-3 the whole way, and pretty enjoyable, though longer than the CJ. J-Berg is no gimme, so congratulations are in order!

Sounds like a good story for a TR!

Correct, no permit from RS needed for day trip (you may need to fill out something for day use at the TH though, I forget). You don't need a rope in the central gully up or down if you are comfortable scrambling 3rd and short bits of 4th class. Can't speak for the glacier condition right now, but I know from a late September jaunt a few years ago that you will be walking over some pretty big cracks, even if they are covered. And yes, the SE ridge is WAY better than the gully. Think west ridge of North Twin Sister, at 9K, and surrounded by ice and exposure. It doesn't get much better, seriously.

seven hours car to car is fast for the Sulphide, assuming you rope up on the glacier. I would plan on 10-12. Although it goes at low-mid fifth, I would highly recommend the SE ridge finish to the summit pyramid.

Sloan should be in good shape as well.

Surprised I didn't see you guys mention the carnage on the Cascade River Road. That was some T-storm!

I've had this for about 6 months and taken it on some rough approaches and climbs. So far it seems to be holding up pretty well, with only minor scrapes and gouges. Overall, it is certainly the most comfortable helmet I've owned, but I do still wonder about the long term durability. Also, EPP foam has been around for a long time, so I wonder why it has taken this long to make a helmet out of it, and why only Petzl is doing it?? The hideous orange color choice (only one??) is curious as well, as I know of several partners who won't buy it, not matter how good it is.