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Everything posted by JasonG


    I hope Instagram dies a swift and fiery death..... Until then, you all will be subject to my obsession with publicly posting images. Sorry! Kulshan last Saturday afternoon:
  2. Mt. Baker partner wanted

    Route conditions on Baker are typically pretty challenging in early October. I wouldn't expect "ideal".
  3. Trip: Dome and the Lizard - Ptarmigan (Ptarmithumb) Traverse Trip Date: 07/22/2022 Trip Report: Ah, the classic Ptarmigan....is there a finer high traverse in the Cascades? After 25ish year of rambling around the range I'm not sure there is a more scenic and pleasant high route. And so, after a 19 year hiatus it was time to return with none other than @Juan Sharp. My thumb was still broken with a pin, but no matter, we would take it easy over 6 days and savor the experience. There is probably too much already written about this particular trip, but I will say that it is worth repeat visits, if only to camp in the places you wished you had camped the first time! And, amazingly enough, the traverse was much quieter than I had it in 2003. Probably "closures" on both ends had something to do with that (check notes below for additional beta). High points, for us, included perfect weather, good snow conditions, few bugs, an evening visit from a couple curious goats, ethereal marine layer mists from White Rock Lakes, Northern lights from the Dome/Dana Glacier col, solos of Dome and the Lizard (for me), sunrise/sunset on Dakobed, and a surprise visit from @jenny.abegg and partner who were mountain running from Canada to Stehekin, along the crest, in ONE WEEK. They covered in A DAY, what took us 4 days! To say we were amazed would be an understatement. I can't wait to see the movie made by the film crew running along with them for a couple sections. Low points would be the brush of Bachelor and Downey Creeks, but there is always a price of admission to the glory of the North Cascades parklands. I'll be back, but I won't wait as long next time! Heading up the closed cascade river road: @Juan Sharp below Mixup on the way to Cache col: Formidable: Camp 1 with a good view of the NF of Spider: Traversing over to Middle Cascade Gl: Passing thru Spider/Formidable col, Old Guard and LeConte in the middle: Climbing up above Yang Yang Lakes: Camp 2: Formidable at sunrise: Heading out on Day 3: Traversing to LeConte Gl.: South Cascade Gl.: The majestic north side of Sinister/Dome and the Chickamin Gl.: Camp 3 at White Rock Lakes: NF of Sinister and the Chickamin: Elephant Head and Dome from WRL: The aptly named Elephant Head: Agnes! Snout of the Dana: The German Helmet lost in the mists to the right of @Juan Sharp: Summit ridge of Dome: Hydramatic Spire: Camp 4, North Cascades style: @jenny.abegg and crew heading towards the Chickamin one evening: Dakobed from Camp 4: Surprise aurora borealis one night....it didn't look like this to the naked eye, 25 sec. exposure. Heading toward Itswoot ridge on day 5: Dome and @Juan Sharp: Sussing out the way to Cub lake from Itswoot ridge: False hellebore: Getting to the fun part in Bachelor Creek: @Juan Sharp crossing Bachelor Creek after doing battle with the worst of it. Note the bloody shins: The Bachelor Creek trail has sustained significant damage from slides this past winter: Camp 5, on the banks of Downey Creek: We're not in Colorado any more! Thru the burn at the end of the Downey Creek trail: Gear Notes: 30m rope, glacier gear, helmet, ice axe, crampons Approach Notes: Cascade River Road closed at Eldorado. Bachelor/Downey creek trails officially "closed" but in decent shape, esp. thru the burn. Bachelor Creek trail in good shape above 4500'. Cross Bachelor Creek at the alternate 4500' crossing. Flagged from there down to old log across Bachelor Creek at 4100'. Lots of blowdown in Lower Bachelor Creek and upper Downey Creek trails. Much bear sign.
  4. Buckhorn Lake

    Woah, that's wild! Never been in there...
  5. question Best approach shoes

    When Scarpa stopped making the heavy duty SL backpacking boot, I bought a pair from Cascades Crags as they went out of business. They sat in my basement for more than 12 years until my old SLs finally bit the dust after 18 years, two soles, two trips to Nepal, and many, many miles. Finally breaking in the new pair this year. Do it!
  6. question Best approach shoes

    Sweet, glad they work! And you are making up for lost time this summer!!
  7. Nice work! Sorry about being one of the 15....but here's a lumpsucker for your trouble: https://www.seattleaquarium.org/blog/closer-look-what-puts-lump-our-pacific-spiny-lumpsuckers
  8. Trip: The Triad - East Ridge to Main Summit Trip Date: 08/06/2022 Trip Report: All the hardman FA glory on the site is pretty amazing this summer, but what is the blue collar climber to aspire to, you might ask? Well, the Triad of course! Nothing worse than low fifth (or old skool 4th) and an energetic approach separate mere mortals from the club of North Cascadian summits. It didn't take much to convince @Trent and @Kit to join me on an 11 hour ramble in the alpine a few weeks ago (even though Steve had already climbed it), following this excellent topo drawn by @Stefan: We started the morning watching a bear....get shot....in the meadows above the trail. I have to say that it was a bit surprising to hear a shot ring out and watch it tumble down the slope toward us! A first for me. But the MBSNF is the "land of many uses" and who am I to judge? I like meat as much as the next chossdawg. Just maybe wear orange after 8/1, eh. Regardless, we made good time to the pass above the trail and began the sound of music ridge run towards the Triad. Not much to report on the traverse to the peak that isn't included in the excellent topo. My thumb was still pretty buggered so @Trent was on the hook to lead the technical bits, which he dispatched without trouble. Difficulties were short-lived (1 pitch) and soon we rambled our way to the highest of the three dicks (read Green Fred for the full story). The day was perfect, without a soul around, so nice on an August Saturday in the increasingly busy North Cascades. And it remained quiet (no other parties) until we were back on the trail, close to the car. There are still lonesome weekend day trips out there! Gear Notes: Crampons, helmet, axe, light 60m rope, very small rack if you want to belay 4th class bits. Approach Notes: Sibley Creek Trail. Watch out for bear hunters!
  9. Uhhhhh, this might be mine! I lost a blackberry somewhere on the East Triad about 10 years ago! I would love to get it back just for posterity. Edit, lost on 10/26/08 to be exact. It was a Blackberry Pearl.
  10. Sharp-shinned hawk? https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Sharp-shinned_Hawk/id I sometimes see them hunting in the alpine. Cool birds!
  11. I think owls can be very territorial. I know I don't have enough hair to look tasty, yet I have had them bomb me, as have several other Hair Club for Men members.
  12. I thought it was worth climbing, though it isn't all as solid as the photo would suggest. Still, that pitch is one of the better alpine pitches I've climbed in the Cascades and really made for a memorable trip.
  13. You continue to rack up the impressive solo string @JonParker! I bet you'd like that SW side of Dorado Needle (if you haven't been that way already):
  14. I think you solved the Sasquatch mystery AND DB Cooper!
  15. They hang with the grizzlies at all times.
  16. You do know that black bears can be brown, right? Despite 10 years and hundreds of DNA samples from hair snares, park biologists were never able to confirm a grizzly in the North Cascades. Do you have a photo? All the "grizzly" photos I've seen from the area have been clearly cinnamon black bears.
  17. Those are super cool images from Afghanistan!
  18. Super cool looking trip! Thanks for the idea....
  19. This is pure gold and applicable to so many climbs! Well done guys, glad to see the smoldering bromance finally flamed! And, this was really well-written! It would be fun to have @lunger's take here for posterity alongside yours.
  20. [TR] Chikamin Peak - Dog Route 09/05/2022

    I had the route you took wrong. It was all that and then some! Such a beautiful area....looks like a great day!
  21. question Best approach shoes

    We have a winner!
  22. [TR] Glacier Peak - Cool Glacier 09/03/2022

    My legs hurt just thinking about all that distance and elevation gain! Well done!
  23. Ah the A1! And you aren't messing around with those lenses either. One of these days I hope to upgrade into that level of hardware, but I suspect it will take the death of a close relative.