mikeadam

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Mike Adamson http://alpinelite.com mikeadamson@alpinelite.com [This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 02-01-2001).]

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thomask@isomedia.com If you hover on the icons above the posting you'll find profile info for that individual Mike NOT of East Ravenna

Hands down, the Grivel screws start easier and finish faster than the BD express screws. Mark makes a great point about not having to clear as much ice to place a Grivel screw. I haven't tried one out for making an abalokov though, so better keep another screw handy just in case it get burly cranking at an angle. With gloves it is a much easier screw to place and although there are some issues with racking it I'm sure once people have experimented a bit more it will be a staple on most racks. Mike NOT of East Revanna

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http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000075.html

Oh Brother- Messner Jr, I think maybe papa Rheinhold was referring to some more serious aspirations like Nanga Parbat or even the Eiger Nordward... For us, the issue is something like 25m of grade2. I promise I won't climb there as long as everyone agrees to let me fire my flame thrower in their vicinity. After all it's a service I'd be providing for your safety and my amusement. How many more posts till retirement Tim? Mike "Whillans" Adamson http://alpinelite.com

Maybe an interim solution is to implicitly, amongst ourselves, designate certain areas of Banks Lake as known "practice areas". One spot that comes to mind is the Devils Punch Bowl. It's already threatened enough anyway as it is. Canmore, Alberta has a fat flow called "The Junkyards" where it is pretty much known exclusively as a TR or practice area. No one gets bent out of shape about falling ice because everyone is there for the same reason. To train, practice, learn, whatever. The ice gets hacked and chopped and no one has any issues. Falling ice is just part of the day there, and since most everyone is TR'ing all you have to do is get out of the way or get nailed. The fact that there is 30m of Grade2 below you leading into a nasty tree runout zone doesn't deter anyone from stepping into the shooting gallery. From what I've seen at Banks, The Devils Peebowl, and the next large flow further south are the logical suspects for designation. Most of the other flows don't really look conducive to TR'ing and should be left for leading. If you want to lead at DPB fine, go for it, knock yourself out (maybe literally). What's the concensus on this? The ice here is a limited resource. Maybe we can all make logical concessions and have a tight well bonded community of climbers all doing their thing with respect for one another. Fire away, Mike http://alpinelite.com

I tried it, but after 6 weeks I realized I was so broke I HAD to go back to work.

Trust me Grasshoppa. Might not look as cool as the "super clipper" or "Wango Trango", but it gets the job done. 9 more posts until retirement. Should be done by the end of the week eh? Mike http://alpinelite.com

You can make one with a bent gate and some duct tape for about 5 bucks. Oh yeah REI...BOOOOO! Mike http://alpinelite.com [This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 01-23-2001).]

I'm suffering through life with CM saf loks. This will change soon though. The android is the way to go for sure. Most of the Yamnuska guys were using these including Barry Blanchard who I saw using this system on Saturday. My other buddy Hajime was using one and "raved" about it in his Japanese manner. Mike http://alpinelite.com

I agree with CC. It's one thing to come behind a party and make a decision to climb underneath them. Quite another to be there first trying to have a good time, and then the next thing you know you're getting strafed with chunks of solid ice. Not fun, and can be terminal. I think climbing over the top of someone else is bad etiquette, although sometimes unavoidable. It's a judgement call and can be donw with tact and concern for other parties. Believe me, if you climb over the top of me with rude disregard for my safety, my 230lb rugby player body is going to brutally pummel your ass afterwards. Try it and find out if you don't believe me. Mike http://alpinelite.com