Td13

January 8

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A8xKlzokiN0cch5HF3j6iSPY0BYS57MD/view?usp=drive_web

I think labelled this public if U have the link?

December 24, 2023

Jeffrey W. I have a bunch of complied & edited of my climbing of the crux buttress off my Gopro. My follower had a Gopro as well but didn't record much. Just a few pieces of me leading occasional parts & himself following. Didn't record the middle section of low 5th class stuff even though or the upper ice face as it was after dark I lead it as I had to pitch out the whole route unexpectedly. Either way email me at tyler.r.davidson@gmail.com & I'll send it to U.

May 26, 2020

I have a trip report typed up from my July 25,2016 ascent of Edith Cavell Northface via (Chouinard/Beckey/Doody route). I don't have as much beta from the approach buttress but the upper face I have it in spades as I lead the whole route.

My route Beta

Here's all the info I read. pictures of the line. I found the beta to approach through the lower buttress to the top of the angel glacier not to be completely accurate or we found an easier way because we did it at 6am? Nevertheless we did not rope up for that section. Glacier was easy to navigate with minimal crevasses. We gained the rock almost directly below the crux buttress over a bergshrund (short down climb) but easy. Picked our way up through the rock from there, left then back right. Attached Topo of the crux buttress I found accurate except we had a tough time deciding what the hanging slab was? There is one up and right (beside #2) on the topo but it was too high to be the one in the topo. I climbed a pillar to the left of the corner on the topo. I started in the left but the rock was beyond horrible so I went up the middle rather then traverse it to the right (as topo shows). This made 1-2 moves that was not 5.7- see pic called pitch 1 probably 5.9 - partner agreed) the rest of the route was the grade (5.7 or easier). Dug out a dirty pin about 35 metre after it backed off on a ledge (pin on the left) cut right to what we identified as the blocky ledges and stayed left of all the roofs (see pic with line). Straight forward from there found 4-5 pins along the buttress and a fixed hex all gear anchors on the crux buttress. After that your still only half way up. Go straight up picking your way through snowy/icy blocks, quartzite steps and ice - did locate the odd pin here and there but mostly gear belays again. Eventually you'll find one lone pin were the rock gets really steep. cut right there couple more rope lengths will bring get you to the upper snow/ice field. deep powder but screws if you dig. Bypass the shale band on the left and we passed the cornice on the far left as well. I labelled the pictures according to this imperfect but accurate description of our day on route.

We used a Standard rack

.3-3 cams 4 pins (two KB, angle (which is on route still used as part of an anchor) lost arrow placed once then removed. 6 screws, 80m 9mm rope a small stove and emergency blanket and tarp.Good luck!!

Morning look after my partner arrived..on our approach to the lower 4th & 5th class rock shared with the Angel Glacier tongue.

Blue skies looked promising, but sadly that changed. Starting in this light made finding our way up the lower rock buttress easier which we solo'd. Some/few 5th class moves here and there.

Jeremy climbing on the approach,4th with the odd 5th class move, rock to the glacier flats.

Looking at the Face from where we topped out on the lower rock buttress. Well right of the dangerous Angel Glacier tongue ice fall.

Leading across the Angel glacier flats. Minimal crevasses throughout. The crevasses present were easily stepped over.

Me past the bergshrund climbing up to the start of the lower 4th class rock which leads to the base of the crux buttress.

Jeremy following the bergshrund traverse with short couple step down-climb mixed in.

TOPO of the crux buttress sent to me from friends who climbed the face 2 weeks-ish prior

taken off http://lamountaineers.org/NAC/browserf/climbs/edithcnf/topo.pdf

Me on pitch 1 showing were the 5.9 move/s are located. I started on the left side of this pillar, but found the rock horrible and any protection worse then suspect. Hence why I traversed onto the rock pillar's face and climbed it directly. This is what led me to the 5.9 move/s. Those moves can be avoided if you stay on the chossy quartzite rock on climbers left.

As shown on the topo stay, 20-30 meters, left of the Buttress Prow unlike what Selected Alpine Climbs states.

Found a pin in the rock here as marked. I

marked out the rest of the route we took labelled very similar to TOPO attached. FYI this is where the rock fall happens from the large overhanging bowl above. Be aware and don't linger here!!

As the weather completely deteriorated causing rocks to fly, I got my partner out of that area with a short 2nd pitch.

Here is Jeremy following a longer pitch 3 - after our very short P2 5metres to get him away from the following rocks (from above as it has started to rain)

Evidence of deterioration in the weather!!!

Jeremy about to meet me at the belay of our 3rd pitch up the crux buttress.

Weather created avalanches to fall over Northface East summit direct route.

Looking up at the roof, shown on TOPO. This was the belay stands top of our pitch 3. I found cracks to protect the corners I climbed left of the roof throughout.

Me gearing below the start of our 4th pitch (ie roof pitch on topo).

Picture extracted from my gopro showing my line on our pitch 4 - staying left of the roof.

Rainbow showed Jeremy and I a sign of promise!!!

Found a fixed hex in the corner, which I backed up with 2 pieces on this prominent ledge. Top of our pitch 4. There was also a damaged rope lying on this ledge that was oddly coiled!?!

Me with the eerie looking dark sky and Northface looming behind. pic credit

Jeremy Regoto

This corner was our pitch 5 that finishes the crux buttress lead directly from the ledge with the old coiled rope and fixed corner hex.

Snowy & ice covered 4th with some easy 5th class after the buttress for a couple hundred meters. This picture of me traversing to obtain the upper ice field. Suggest stay up the middle of the snowy/iced covered rocks or you'll have to traverse like I did avoiding unprotect-able overhanging rock. There was a fixed pin at this belay stands hence why I stopped and belayed Jeremy up here.

Sun is starting to set before we got onto the upper ice field!!

View from West ridge descent of the point to access upper snow/ice field. I had to traverse away from overhanging rock to this point - (mentioned and shown in previous picture).

Jeremy following on the upper ice field after the odd steep rock step or snow chocked chimney to the start it off. This picture is obviously well after sunset and after midnight.

Jeremy topping out at 4:02am

Me digging out my 2nd ice tool used as a deadman anchor to belay Jeremy.

Because we topped out so early in the morning. We decided to get some quick shut eye and wait for sunrise before we went down the west ridge to the west bowl. Small stove was excellent to have as we melted snow for a drink, boiled water and fought for the Nalgene hot water bottle for warmth 😂.

Tyler R Davidson