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Posts posted by DET
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Nick this looks fantastic! Definitely going on my list. I really enjoyed the sawtooths last year and look forward to getting back to see more of Idaho!
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Awesome route. So much happening on the Eliot since that solo of yours a month back.
How was the top out on your final lap? Any ice left or was it all rock in that upper rockband. We scouted the top Saturday but got socked in by clouds and decided not to try.
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Thanks all for the photos and info. The HW looks fantastic. Nice work out there
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Hey Nolan how was the ice on the Eliot HW and what top out did you take?
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On 3/21/2021 at 10:25 AM, nonbasketless said:
what exactly were you punching through to?
Near rock outcrops it's likely melt from the sun heating the rock. Otherwise steam vents.
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7 hours ago, zaworotiuk said:
led into the snow field and somehow recognized one of the rocks or something (??????)
LOL
Nice work!
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9 hours ago, Nolan E Arson said:
Nice work! It was cool to run into you yesterday on the way back down to the Palmer.
Nice to meet you up there too. Looking forward to seeing your TR!
Yea I'm not a fan of those mini rides...
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Trip: Mt. Hood - Steel cliffs south face
Trip Date: 03/17/2021
Trip Report:Climbed the south face of steel cliffs on a beautiful sunny Wednesday.
We were expecting the initial "step" (that gets us from the lower snow ramp to the upper snow ramp) to be steep snow/ice but it ended up being a full pitch of thin drips and rock. We climbed the east side of the prominent "boulder" (west of the cave). There were short and narrow vertical steps (6-10 feet) between more tame slopes. Placed an ok screw here and there, slung some horns, occasionally put the tools away to stem and pull on holds inside slots between rock.
After the step we traversed left to the upper ramp. Snow conditions were great for easily kicking steps. Though there was some rock hidden under thin snow at the low end.
The Wy'east traverse was a slog. Deep soft snow and wind almost the whole way (skiers paradise though...). We had some scares punching all the way through the 18-24 inch slab into hollow caves/holes below. Despite following a faint boot pack (when visible), I fell in to my chest at one point. Luckily my feet hit the rocky bottom. The "crux" traverse was in great shape and we had no issue at all.
But the final ascent up to the ridge proper (shortly after the crux traverse) was scary. 45-50 degree soft soft snow. Post holing to knees and beyond. At one point we punched clean through that slab and couldn't see the bottom. Despite the "Low" avy danger that day, we did not feel happy on that slab. Maybe we're paranoid but had we known it was that soft and hollow we wouldn't have done that part of the route.
After a few minutes on the windy summit we descended the gates.
Gear Notes:
4 screws, 4 pickets, 50m rope
Approach Notes:
Good snow for skinning all the way to the glacier but we dropped skis at palmer
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[TR] DKHv3.5? 4? 2/23/24
in Oregon Cascades
Posted · Edited by DET
Today we did what would have been a fun gully on the east crater wall. I don't know what number it's supposed to be. v4? Or is it between v3 and v4?
Anyway it would have been more fun in firmer snow/rime. But we were wallowing in deep snow, and the rime was so fragile it could barely support itself. Though that did make all the excavation easy. Took WAY too long to get up there and we dealt with a lot of hollow snow. Went down v4(?) instead of finishing the traverse.
The soft snow made for an absolutely blissful ride down to the lot. Beautiful day 🙂
Also saw a pretty massive avalanche crown on the west crater.