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Mikekindofabaddaddavies

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Posts posted by Mikekindofabaddaddavies

  1. Had an Absolute blast on this route yesterday. Could see from baker to mt Adams, what a treat.   Super fun, consistent climbing, plum repelling. We tied pitches 2-3,4-5, and 6,7.   A few loose blocks on some of the roofier moves, but all and all a fantastic stress free day out.     

    Moderate, bolted, alpine climbs, humans love those!

  2. Got all thirteen pitches in last Sunday with Russel Cunningham, and had an absolute blast.

    first things first, I lost my keys out there,  i just went up to the base of the climb yesterday to look for them, no dice.  My best guess is that they are near the top of pitch 9 as we took a little nap in the trees there.  If anyone goes up in the next couple weeks please give a quick look around as its my only reliable truck key.

    Next, great route.

    p1-7 Apart from the first feature off the ground (I went to the far right under the roof then right,) which doesn't protect well, i find this to be great climbing which i would recommend to anyone, the climbing is clean and the route is easy to find.  I've climber up to the top of seven twice now, the first time i didn't pay attention to the "yard on cedars" beta, and went far right on the upper face to a feature that climbs back right to the anchor.  It was scary but really good climbing.  This time I "yarded on cedars" and thought that was unnecessary,  I had Russel just climb five feet to the right of the trees on top rope and it definitely went too.  Thus I would be willing to go up there with some one with the knowhow and see if we can't put a couple bolts in the greatly improve that section of the climb.

    p8 is fine, bolts are a little hidden at the top, commit and you'll find them

    p9 - pretty rambling - look for my keys.

    p10 was my favorite pitch.  interesting enough climbing and finally a lot of exposure

    p11 i was not too fond of,  slippery dirty scrubby, I was pretty that i was belaying from the wrong tree,  as it turn out i wasn't, to stay on track just follow the border of the Forrest and the slab, and you'll get there.

    12 and 13 went well and rapping was very straight forward.

    I agree that the rap line looks like a brilliant climb, until you get to the second to last rap and steepness really picks up.  I went up yesterday on my key recon and got a few pictures of it.  Maybe there is an option to the far right, but it doesn't take  a lot of climbing at the fee demo wall to realize that 5.9 and 5.12 really look a lot alike.  Never the less it could be worth poking around . Also, it looks like there could be a scrubby crappy bushy route to the far left of the rap line, but i'm not sure that would be worth it.

    cleaner steeper line.JPG

    crapy bushy line.JPG

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