Jump to content

kmfoerster

Members
  • Posts

    178
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    25

Everything posted by kmfoerster

  1. As someone who has climbed TC's in awful conditions, I'd wait until you're sure its good. The north face of Dragontail is probably one of the most photographed aspects in the Cascades. I bet even so in winter. Social media is your friend on checking conditions of the face. You'll have to wade through 1000's of photos of bikini clad women in the foreground to get to the recent winter shots. You want to see wide, continuous white through the runnels between the hidden and second couloir. Most will tell you to wait until late March through April. Maybe May if it hasn't been warm.
  2. Pick guards made from 3/4" vinyl tubing and some shock cord. Great for storage and transport.
  3. Cool. Didn't really feel like the juice was worth the squeeze on that one ya know?
  4. I've found that exposed sandstone scrambling is very unappealing for me. Turned around just after this photo. SW Ridge of West Temple in Zion.
  5. May 2018. Walking out from Ptarmigan ski trip.
  6. Congrats to them! Nope thats from the NW couloir trip in 2019. Maybe my favorite sunset I've witnessed/captured. Perfect, calm, clear early November evening.
  7. Thanks Jason for starting this thread. Was worried I wasn’t going to my JasonG photo dosage anymore.
  8. Thought the film was great! Some of the climbing was absolutely incredible. Marc mentions in the film how he started alpine climbing in jeans and polo t-shirts as in the Cheam peak TR above.
  9. A couple of DIY ice axe/tool carry options for packs with just a daisy chain system. A simple loop will work with and ice axe or tool that had a full size hammer or adze. I made some toggles out of aluminum similar to the Arcteryx packs. They'll hold an ice tool head if the hammer or whatever is too small to get captured by just a loop. Any toggle that will fit through the head on the narrow side but is still long enough to sufficiently hold the head will work. Plastic or metal toggles that get used for clothing can be found online. A loop of shock cord and a cord lock is used to hold the shaft of the axe.
  10. Trip: Dragontail Peak, NE Towers - This, My Friend Trip Date: 09/12/2021 Trip Report: Yesterday Kat and I climbed "This, My Friend" on the east aspect of Dragontail Peak. The route is only a year old at this point and is getting alot of attention, for good reason. Hats off to the FA party for the vision and the work cleaning this thing up. Its five pitches and all but a short connector pitch are 55m of clean, fun climbing. We got moving at the trailhead around 5am Sunday morning and reached the base of the route around 8am. I lead the first pitch which is also the crux of the route. The general consensus of this pitch so far is that its 5.10-. It starts with really easy climbing then heads straight up a shallow, flaring thin hands and ring lock crack followed by slightly easier terrain. Pro is tricky on this pitch, but I found three bomber #1 placements. From there Kat lead pitch 2, THE money pitch and an absolute gem. A full rope length of 5.9 awesome finger locks and perfect hands. Stupid good. After that, Kat lead the 5.meh connector pitch to the base of the headwall so I too could have a money pitch. Thanks again Kat. Pitch 4 goes up a clean headwall split by a 5.7 varying crack, mostly hands. Awesome jams peppered with knobs all around it. Pitch 5 is wandery 5.7 crack and face climbing to the summit of the East Pinnacle. From there we followed the descent description trending southwest down ramps and ledges to the Dragontail trail. We found a way that stayed in 3rd or 4th class terrain with only one spicy no falls allowed section. I built some cairns along the way. Its a quick hike back to the base following the Dragontail southside trail to Asgard. We got back to the base around 2pm. We both climbed with little packs to carry our shoes, puffies, and a little water. That all could fit on your harness if you want but I liked my harness being a bit less crowded. None of the climbing felt cumbersome with a small pack. The hike out went just fine and got back to the car around 5:30pm. This is an awesome route that will no doubt become a crowded classic due to the quality moderate climbing. Me starting the first pitch. it veers left from here: Part way through the first pitch: Kat on the 2nd pitch: Me starting up the pitch 4 headwall. Kat photo of the headwall cracks: Kat coming up the final moves of the Pitch 4 headwall: Last Pitch: Me coming up the last pitch: Coming down the steepest part of the descent: Gear Notes: 60m rope. At least a double rack of cams .2-2 and one #3. Metolius 00-1 proved quite useful too. With this route triples of certain sizes would not go unused. We had triples of .4-2, which we thought was just a bit overkill. If doing it again I'd bring triples of .75-2 instead. Selection of small to medium stoppers. 10 alpine draws and 2 double length slings. Seasonally dependent snow gear. Approach Notes: Colchuck Lake to Asgard pass. Cut over headed west on scree and talus at approximately 7300-7400'.
  11. Dang those sx620’s seem pretty good. The price is right too!
  12. Some of my more recent packs. 30l Climbing pack and a 18L packable daypack. Both are made from a dyneema and polyester hybrid fabric. Many awesome fabric options coming out now. Its and exciting time to be a hobby pack maker! Have been messing around with removable hip belt pockets for a bit now too. Maybe I'll post them too.
  13. Same boat as Otto. I've been hesitant to pick up an RX100 though for a bit now just because friends of mine have had durability issues with them. Supposedly they've been getting better and better about that with each version. I'll be looking to take the next step up here soon I think. Wanting a bit more than my iPhone and Sony RX0.
  14. Your photos keep getting better and better. The circuit really is a fun outing and the rock in the sisters can be a dream to climb.
  15. Awesome! You might catch some funny looks when telling the younger generation the route's acronymic name.
  16. I had no idea as I’ve always had the forum page bookmarked. I check th MP regional forum once every blue moon and saw someone started a thread there asking about it… instead of asking on here?
  17. No, this is part of a shift in the site becoming a one stop shop for all things alpine climbing, plagiarizing, and mail order brides. I cant wait for the final version!!
  18. Sweet! Wild hair is a pretty awesome route, and the NE ridge of the Chopping Block should not be missed either. Looks like a fun trip!
×
×
  • Create New...