Everything posted by Eric Gilbertson
Eric Gilbertson posted a topic in Climbing PartnersI'm planning to climb three 7,000m peaks next summer in central Asia and am looking to form a team of ~4 climbers. The peaks are Khan Tengri (~7,000m), Pik Pobeda (7,439m), and Pik Communisma (7,495m). These are the country highpoints of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan, and also three of the five snow leopard peaks (7000m peaks of the former soviet union). The trip will take roughly two months, July - August. My plan is to pre-acclimate on a hiking peak the first week of July, then take the first scheduled helicopter shuttle to base camp at Inylchek in Kyrgyzstan in early July and climb Khan Tengri via the standard West ridge via south approach (Russian grade 5A). Then from the same base camp climb the classical West ridge route on Pobeda (grade 5B). When finished, we'll helicopter out, then fly to Tajikistan and climb Pik Communisma via the standard Borodkin Spur (grade 4C). Some background about myself - my high altitude and technical climbing experience includes climbing Noshaq (7,492m, highest peak in Afghanistan via west ridge 5.7 M4), Shkhara (grade 5A attempt to 5000m), Mt Logan (Canada), Denali, a bunch of 6,000m trekking peaks in the Andes, Mt Kenya (5200m, 5.8 north face), Aoraki/Mt Cook, Orizaba, Kili, Elbrus, Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier, and some 20-30-pitch FAs in NWT. I've been on expeditions up to 7-weeks long. I have one partner so far but would like to recruit a few more and ideally do some training trips this winter in the cascades. Let me know if you are interested in joining. Eric Gilbertson
Trip: Mount Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge Trip Date: 05/28/2018 Trip Report: We climbed Ptarmigan Ridge on Monday and found it much more melted out than reports from previous years. Sunday night we camped at the 10,300ft bivy sites below the climb. Monday morning we left camp at 5am and climbed continuous snow/ice to the traverse section. In the middle of the steep traverse is an unavoidable 30m section of exposed frozen mud and very thin ice to cross. The hourglass feature is melted out and requires 5m of mixed climbing. Rock fall occurred intermittently from the crumbling cliffs above the traverse and the hourglass. Snow continues above this to a small belay cave. Above the cave is a full pitch of WI3 with good quality and fun water ice. Snow continues above this, but turns to talus below the chimney. The two pins are still in place in a crack on the right side of the chimney. We topped out mid day, then hiked over Liberty Cap and Columbia Crest and descended down the Emmons. Gear Notes: 4 pickets, 6 screws, 60m rope Approach Notes: Up and over St Elmo's Pass and across the Winthrop and Carbon Glaciers.