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Michael Telstad

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Everything posted by Michael Telstad

  1. [TR] Stuart Range Traverse - Stuart to Dtail 08/10/2020

    Not too shabby. An onsight solo of the N-Ridge is proud in it's own right!
  2. @MarkAllen Mikey says it wasn't him, but who knows what he called the feature when/if he climbed it. Hopefully the walls up there get more traffic, and a trail emerges soon. I already would have been up there a few more times if it wasn't for the schwacky approach. It probably only needs a days worth of work with a hand saw and cairns to bust through the lower section. I might take you up on the belay offer some time soon. There are a few more lines calling my name.
  3. Why do you tease us like this?
  4. Congrats! I'm curious how the Taco held up on the wall. It looks a little soft
  5. That's pretty funny that a wall that gets so little action has so many names. Chris and Mike called it Little Liberty Bell/Cutthroat Creek Wall. Since that was the only info I found on the wall, I went with their name. I'll ask Chris if he can change the Mountain project listing. Dawn Wall it is! I'll definitely reach out to Mikey. One of the slings seemed very new while the other might have been his. There are definitely more out there somewhere. The chances of intentionally finding them have got to be almost zero without some sort of drug dog.
  6. Do any of you old timers have one of these gathering dust in your closet somewhere? Ideally I'm looking for one of the forrest tools with the nut tool attachment, but I'm open to other long picked alpine hammers as well.
  7. Trip: Prusik Peak - Der Sportsman Trip Date: 06/23/2020 Trip Report: I was pretty hesitant to write this TR due to the current overcrowding in the area. I realized that it likely isn't going to make much of a difference cuz no-one really uses this site anymore anyhow. And as long as people follow a few key tips, you can have a good responsible Enchantments climb. 1.) Avoid weekends like the plague... as best you can. 2.) Get to the TH before 7 And try not to get yourself parked in. 3.) If you start later hitch to and from the TH if you can. (This worked better and was safer before COVID). 4.)Pick up trash you find. Quadruple points for picking up other peoples surface shits, and try to stick to trails and rock as much as possible. Now on to the actual TR Last year Sean and I climbed the West face of CBR around the same time, starting at 9:30ish and getting back to the car just before dark. We decided to keep the (almost) solstice tradition going this year with Der Sportsman. 17+ hours of daylight is pretty luxurious We left the trail head a little after 6. Our packs felt light with no water and no real insulating layers to speak of. The trail was pretty quiet at that hour on a Tuesday. The hike up Aasgard was pretty uneventful with only the usual snow patch to cross near the top. The descent down to Prusik was a nice change of pace and the soft snow seemed to make it a little lower impact and faster down the steep sections. Arriving at the base in good time, we decided to chill for a little bit and recover to give us a better shot at the cruxy first pitch. Finally the sun coming around the corner gave me enough courage to rack up and get going while the crux was still shaded. Unfortunately I pumped out and broke a foot chip so no OS for me, but Sean followed the pitch in style. P2 isn't too spicy apart from the real risk of whipping on your belayer. This is the only reason I would consider setting up the belay a little higher. P3 is absolute money! Unfortunately it has 2 fixed pieces at the beginning that detract from the cleanliness of the line, but who really cares, it's great! P4 I found the step right to be super desperate and kinda just fell onto the far right foot as a last resort, not sure how that worked out but it did. The moves off the pillar near the end of the pitch are pretty spicy. The rope looks like it would slice right across the arete if you were to fall. Best to avoid that. P5 was probably the only sandbagged pitch on the route. I'd also say it's the worst pitch on the route, which is saying a lot since it is still pretty damn good! I've seen the pitch called 10b, but I'd say 10c/d. P6 Oh boy is this the icing on the cake! Such an incredible position to be climbing such an amazing crack! Definitely not 12a, felt more like 11a/b on TR. From where we topped out, we untied and scrambled up to the summit, chatted with some nice folks and took a small nap. We then downclimbed the W Ridge and scrambled back to our packs in our rock shoes to avoid taking axes or shoes up the route. The hike out always sucks, but is the price you pay for the light packs and burrito dinner. We got down with enough light to re-set up camp and crack a beer before the headlamps came out. I feel like I've focused too much on times in my previous TR's. If you want to know our splits I have a Strava track HERE. Gear Notes: Double rack tiny to 2, single #3 and triples in a few finger sizes. We brought nuts but never used them. 60m 9mm rope Handfull of slings and QD's Water filter Trail runners Approach Notes: Over the river and through the woods, up the pass, down the hill and up another hill.
  8. for sale FISH single portaledge

    OOhhh! If I didn't already have the double version of their ledge I would be all over this!
  9. Trip: Silverstar Mountain - Complete East Ridge Trip Date: 07/18/2020 Trip Report: Over the weekend Gabe and I ticked off another Wa Pass obscurity with the East Ridge of Silverstar. Apart from a two part NWMJ story (P1 and P2), Allen/Layton's Wa pass traverse, and a few comments from Scott Johnson we had very little specific beta on the route. I'm curious how many people have climbed this route. It proved to be quite the adventure and I feel like it would be a shame to take that from the next party to go up there. So in order to preserve the adventure and mystery of the route I've decided to be vague on specifics and heavy on photos for this TR. Here are a few notes that I wish I had known before heading out. 1.)Don't rely on Mudhole lake as a water source, the first spot we pulled from was rank and clogged up our filter really badly. We should have expected that... 2.)Expect just enough terrible rock with enough frequency to be stressful. 3.)Don't expect to find prefab bivy spots along the way. The only one we saw was the one we made. 4.)The lichen grows thick in these parts. Now here's the photo dump. Day 1 Mudhole Lake AKA Horseshit puddle Long way to go Silver Moon and Varden creek spire, the 3rd "major" summit along the ridge Finally able to see the meat of the ridge Our nice little sloping bivy Day 2 Started the day with a rappel and stuck rope. Looking back at Silverhorn and Silver Moon, as well as many other gendarmes and sub-summits Summit at last! Traversing back to Burgundy col Gear Notes: Singles .2-4, Doubles .3-2 and a bunch of slings. 1 60m rope and 30 ft of tat. You could bring less of everything if you soloed more of the ridge, we roped up earlier than most other parties. Approach Notes: Take the unmarked horse packing trail a few hundred feet up the cedar creek trail. Just keep following the ridge to infinity and beyond.
  10. [TR] Mt. Index - North Norwegian 06/25/2020

    Don't forget about the NE face of Robie Reid!
  11. I feel like I have good endurance. Then I read your TR's.
  12. Here's the overlay. Red is the Wright-Pond, Yellow is Narcos, and blue is the P2 var that might have been climbed before. I suspect future routes on the face will also finish with the last pitch of the Wright-Pond, It just seems to be the best option.
  13. It was crystals of some sort, either meth or crack. It looked quite pure so I'm guessing meth. Cops thought the same. I got the price from googling "street value of crystal meth", I'm probably on some list now. If I was a Walter White type you wouldn't be hearing about this and I wouldn't still be driving a 92 Accord. I chose the name Narcos when I thought it might be coke. The routes new alternative name is Breaking Bad.
  14. I deeply regret not getting one when I first found it. I was freaked out and wanted to get out of there ASAP. When I wen't back up with the cops they didn't want me taking any pictures and I wasn't gonna mess with someone holding a very large rifle in the middle of the woods.
  15. [TR] Liberty Cap - Ptarmigan Ridge C2C 07/11/2020

    Such a classic shot!
  16. For anyone wanting to score, there's still a few oz worth that spilled in the woods somewhere. Just watch out for those tweaker deer, they have been known to break into cars in the parking lot.
  17. [TR] Liberty Cap - Ptarmigan Ridge C2C 07/11/2020

    That sounds like a lot of effort. Good work and lets see some pictures!
  18. Didn't you hear? Ski season is over!! Good work on the slush harvest!
  19. SEWS Escargot info?

    If so, then the reference I found was wrong in a number of ways. I'd definitely be interested in any info you can get from Leland.
  20. [TR] Das Toof - The Tooth Fairy, 5.9+ 08/15/2019

    I rope soloed this a few months ago. Due to the impossibility of rope drag in the solo system I was able to link pitches and do the whole route in 3 long pitches and some soloing to the top. I can't speak for the first 20 feet as it was under snow, but the rest of the route was pretty quality. The crux was running with water but there were enough good holds to make it totally manageable. Raps are straightforward. The skiing in and out was bad...
  21. Nice TR! This likely is better suited for the "Alpine Lakes" tab if there is an admin who wants something to do.
  22. [TR] Sloan Peak - Superalpine 03/15/2020

    Good work once again! Is there a reason you guys decided to fuss with the tricky ridge again rather than take what you pointed out as the "Optimal Approach?"
  23. Cascade River Road conditions?

    @DPS If you go up there before this weekend I'd be very interested in hearing how far you can get.
  24. @Kyle M I think we tried to force it this time around. We should have known it wasn't gonna go after hearing that baker got a surprise 2ft of fresh the day before. Going forward I'm definitely gonna wait for firm safe conditions and a bombproof weather forecast.
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