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0x6E62

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Everything posted by 0x6E62

  1. Weekend Climb 12/8 or 12/9 - 12/10

    I'd be up for Chair Peak Sunday as well if either of you end up needing a partner.
  2. Trip: Yak Peak - SOMWOW Date: 8/1/2016 Trip Report: Waylaid by injury this weekend and had the time to catch up on TRs. We climbed SOMWOW on Yak Peak at the beginning of August. Decent moderate and a good experience, but I think Yak Check or Beckey Route would've had better climbing. More photos (and better typography) ---- I give up resizing images for CC. Sorry Landscape of Yak Peak UFO Pitch Summit Vista With another weekend of bad weather in the North Cascades, we turned our eyes north, to BC, for some lengthy, moderate multi-pitch. Squamish was out of the question - too many people, too many lines. Instead, we'd travel a few hours east towards the Coquihalla Range, enticed by its excellent rock quality and relative obscurity. Our objective? Seven One Move Wonders of the World (5.8-/PG-13, III), an infrequently climbed fifteen pitch friction slab bonanza that meanders up Yak Peak's SW face. Our base of operations for the weekend would be the scenic Zopkios Rest Area, a truck stop. Pro-tip: Bring earplugs. A refrigerated truck parked next to us the first night and proceeded to idle 'til it departed around 5AM. Neither of us got much sleep. Day One: Is This Our Route? The plan was simple: get an early start Saturday and be climbing by sunrise. We'd spend Sunday bouldering and cragging near Harrison Hot Springs, which Mountain Project promised was well-maintained, with a bevy of closely spaced trad routes and boulders. The evening prior, we'd run into a pair of climbers who'd climbed Yak Check and asked about SOMWOW and the trail. They knew the route but hadn't climbed it, and directed us to a path about 1km up the road. Though it contradicted the route description, which had the trail starting just out of the rest area, we'd found no sign of it and decided to trust the locals. We donned headlamps and started up the road at quarter to five. If everything was as described, we'd pop out of the woods right at the base of our route. Instead, we emerged under Yak Check, a considerably more popular line nearly a kilometer to the east of our intended climb. Undeterred - and not yet realising how far off we were - we traversed westwards along the base. An hour's scrambling and multiple consultations of the topo and route description had us at a loss. There were a few features that looked almost, but not quite like the ones we'd seen in other climber's TRs, but no evidence of anchors on the face or the "two ponds" we were to belay between. In our defense, 1,000' expanses of fourth class slab look pretty similar 😬. Westward progress was halted by a thicket of pines and the realisation that Camille had lost her climbing shoes during the traverse. Our real-life round of "Where's Waldo" with green TC Pros on brown-ish tinged granite took up another hour and a half. Now convinced we'd taken the wrong trail and concerned it was too late in the day to complete the route and descent before nightfall, we descended back to the rest area to find the proper start. Diving straight through the brush at the second telephone ball, just past the brake check sign, we saw a flash of orange to our left - a trail marker! To save you repeating our mistake, here's a GPX (https://www.gaiagps.com/public/0IpZGKHFFmHx0YokXAOrh6ME/#?layer=CalTopo'>https://www.gaiagps.com/public/0IpZGKHFFmHx0YokXAOrh6ME/#?layer=CalTopo) we recorded the next morning. Day 2: Do you see any bolts? The forecast for the second day was grim, so we set out with two ropes lest we were forced to retreat. From the proper trail the initial belay is obvious and well-marked with cairns. We roped up, consolidated packs for the carryover, and got to climbing. We found the first seven pitches were 5.- strolls. On several, it was possible to walk straight up, sans hands. Apart from a cool move on P3, which followed a flower-filled crack, we didn't find any of the "One Move Wonders" or the bolts mentioned in the topo. Simulclimbing these would have sped up the climb significantly and not been much riskier - there are bolted belays metres and only one or two placements per pitch either way. There was some trouble finding the anchors for pitch eight, and we ended up ten metres above them. As the topo warned, the bolts were between two large wet streaks, and the traverse couldn't be protected. It would've been safer to stay to the right on the broken rock band and belay the UFO pitch from a gear anchor; rope drag wouldn't be much worse. From here, the climbing improved, and grades began to seem more appropriate. The mantle over the UFO was wet enough to spice up an otherwise bland lead. The technical crux of the route comes at the end, with the eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth pitches building in both difficulty and length of runout. We made it through eleven and twelve in good form, and then had a bit of a scare on the thirteenth. Though considerably worse at slab than my technically-proficient partner, I'm less shaken by being far above pro (i.e. less likely to imagine the consequences) and got to lead the crux. Unable to spot the first bolt after leaving the belay, I eventually located the the second far above and to the right. The only spot for intermediate pro was a dirt-filled lip to our left. With a #0.3 in place, I padded towards the most nervewracking traverse of my short climbing career. I'd failed to notice returning right would require crossing a markedly less featured portion of slab. Wet slab. Swearing under my breath, I prayed to the friction gods with every step. The cry of "HALF ROPE!" sounds an arm's length from the clipping stance. Feet planted precariously, I removed a sling from my shoulder and leaned in for the clip. My right foot slipped. Performing my best impression of the Howard Dean scream, visions of cheese-grating sixty metres down the face run through my head. I throw all my weight to the left and push off, right arm outstretched. The carabiner's nose finds its mark. I hurriedly clip the rope and move upwards to a better stance, then rush to finish the remaining twenty-five metres. Placements are ample but unnecessary, the final move a fun, juniper-assisted step to the anchors. Once secured, I plop down and enjoy a few moments reflecting on the "fun" of trad. With all but one cam still on my harness, I was elected to lead the penultimate, fourteenth pitch as well. Not one to learn from my mistakes, I strayed too far right and made it a fair bit more difficult for myself and the follower. Again, we could only find the second bolt. From P14 anchors, you've the choice of continuing upwards to the summit or rappelling to the base. Not fancying thirteen double rope raps on shallow slab, we opted for the walk-off. Camille lead the final pitch, a proper adventure climb with plentiful trees for slinging. Though the summit was still a few hundred feet away, we paused to savour the cookies we'd saved for the end of fifth class terrain and relief from our climbing shoes' confines. Summit Scramble & Descent The remaining scrambling was exposed and chossy. Safety-conscious parties (and especially those without approach shoes) may want to remain roped up for the first section past P15, which is 5.Fun gravel masquerading as rock. From above the meadow, the path to the summit is straightforward. Bear north, making ample use of juniper bushes for self-belay. Views from the summit pyramid are remarkable. From the summit, descent is to the north. Follow the cairns down and across the gully towards the Yak Crack trail. Including scrambling, my bad knees, and some backtracking to find the proper trail, it was roughly three hours back to the car. Gear Notes: We had way too much gear. Rack included pink and brown tricams, single C4s 0.5-4, C3s 00-2, .2 and .1 X4s, and a set of nuts. C3s and nuts never left the harness. Highly recommend bringing a #3.5 or #4. We brought a second rope in case we had to rappel and wouldn't countenance climbing the route without one. Even a spritz of rain would render otherwise trivial portions extremely difficult. Approach Notes: Climber's trail invisible as described but well-marked once into trees. If you don't see orange markers or cross a log bridge, you've gone too far up the road. GPX: https://www.gaiagps.com/public/0IpZGKHFFmHx0YokXAOrh6ME/#?layer=CalTopo
  3. Have something lined up for Sunday but want to try and get a full-value weekend in. Looking for a partner to get on a moderate or two in WA Pass, 5.6 to 5.9. I've not climbed out there so I'm open to anything but what I'm doing Sunday, SEWS SW Rib. Have a double rack, plenty of stoke; would be willing to lead everything on easier routes but prefer swinging leads. My climbing goals are: 1. Get home safe 2. Have fun PM me here and we can work out the details
  4. WA Pass Moderates - Saturday, 8/27

    Already have plans to head up Shuksan or Observation Rock that weekend, weather permitting. GL finding a partner!
  5. [TR] Yak Peak - SOMWOW 8/1/2016

    Thanks! It was a good learning experience for me, though not enjoyable at the time. Almost considered giving it another go this weekend but weather's not looking great.
  6. We climbed the Kautz Aug. 15-17. Route was in good condition, but will require increasingly complex crevasse navigation as upper glacier breaks up. Used Comet Falls approach, bivied at 10,500'. Running water below the Turtle around 7,400'. Found two pitches of ~AI2 separated by low angle ice steps, which we simulclimbed. Used at most six screws, including anchors. Once over Wapowety, the crossover to upper Nisqually was impassable. Partner had bad AMS symptoms and we moved too slowly to ascend Kautz Glacier safely, forcing add'l bivy. Next morning, headed for Point Success from top of Wapowety Cleaver instead; should be an easy two day ascent for faster party. Carryover recommended. Other info: The fixed line down to the glacier is core shot near the bottom and showing significant wear. We opted to use our own rope, though the party behind us did not and survived to tell the tale. Tag Point Success while you're up there - we passed within a few hundred feet and I already regret not stopping by! Gear: one piolet + one tool, six screws, one picket each (used once, useless). 50m Rope More photos + full tale of the debacle.
  7. The snow bridge on to the Nisqually seemed impassable on the afternoon of 8/16. We ended up slogging up towards Point Success - the crevasses aren't too bad after the first half, but will certainly open up in coming weeks. Ice on the second pitch felt less than 60 degrees to me...but it was my first ice climb and inexperience certainly plays a part in that judgement! We only placed a single screw and threaded through a few penitents after realising we'd sewn up the first pitch.
  8. Kautz 8/11-8/12 (new dates!)

    PM sent.
  9. Originally had a trip planned for Friday but my partner had to back out last minute. Anyone interested in heading up this weekend? Happy to do it over two days or car-to-car; conditions look fantastic either way. Have rope/rack/ride/snow pro. Email me at cc@ul.io and we can figure out the details.
  10. I'm a boulderer who was convinced/conned by friends into believing I need more Type II fun in my life and have since started mountaineering and trad climbing. While I have all the requisite gear, I am sorely in need of partners - my crew of climbing compatriots are far more interested in recreating scenes from Scarface with their chalk bags than fiddling with gear or extricating each other from a crevasse. My aim for the summer is primarily to be in better condition to make the most of next year and potentially attempt some of the easier winter routes around the Cascades. To make it more concrete, routes I'm keen on attempting this season include: * SW Rib of Southern Early Winter Spire * Mt. Shuskan, SE Rib * Eldorado, NE Face * Liberty Bell, NE Face So why climb with me? Qualifications: * Climbing * Boulder V5/V6, Project V7ish * Sport: Limited experience outdoors - has never been a priority. 10s at vantage and 38 were comfortable, have never tried to push my sport grade outdoors (got into trad before that happened) * Trad: Have lead first pitches of a few Castle Rock classics like Cat Burglar (5.6), Midway (5.6), Canary (5.8), and first two of Remorse on Snow Creek Wall. Seconded Sabre, Outer Space * Have rope, rack, enough spare chalk to share for several lifetimes if not pebble wrestling * Will belay slave you on your proj at Index for hours without complaint * Mountaineering: * One summit of Baker as part of 4 day general mountaineering course; no other notable experience * Crevasse rescue, self-arrest, roped travel covered as part of course but 100% in need of more practice to feel solid * Confident with anchors, belaying etc. due to climbing experience * Former endurance athlete. Suffering is the fun part, right? * No aversion to driving long distances for an experience that is likely only to be fun in retrospect. * Misc: * I bring baked goods for every excursion, which previous partners have described with glowing praise such as "Not a Clif bar", "is this gluten free?", and "that definitely looked like a brownie" * Avowed fan of alpine starts: I get up at 5AM every day anyways, what's a few hours difference? * I scrounged to save on every gram of gear so that true essentials like an Aeropress and fresh grounds can be lugged lovingly carried to basecamp * Available every weekend, and able and willing to take a vacation day or two for the perfect weather window If it sounds like we'd be compatible, PM me and I am happy to chat and better determine whether we'll get along on pitch 11 of a WA Pass classic or hour twenty-three of a car-to-car slog.
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