E-Bum
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You find a partner for Jeff, E-bum?
I am still asking around off-line but I am sure an odd-numbered group will be fine for this route.
Alex
Crap I only saw this now. Couldn't find a partner so made bikepacking plans instead and I'll try to take this Thursday and Friday off and do Jeff then. I'll hit you up for route info when you come back if you're heading up there!
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Looking down from the summit on the upper part of the route, you basically run the ridge:
Great photos. Damn weather has kept us off Jeff this weekend as well, so if I can find a partner or two, I may try it next week. Hopefully the bergschrund is still passable.
In the photo above, where exactly is this knife-edge ridge? Is it between Smith Peak (left) and the Mohler Tooth (right), or after the Mohler Tooth?
Why'd you choose to do the Whitewater for the descent instead of retracing the ascent?
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Excellent thanks Jason! Any photos by any chance?
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Or is it done for the season? I've already bailed on doing Leuthold Couloir on Hood because it's become a landing strip for rocks... Now wondering about the Jeff Park Glacier route on Jeff if temps drop a little this weekend. Anyone have recent info?
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Great photos. The one of the Eldorado summit ridge is indeed stunning. What was your photo set up?
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This is excellent, thanks for the report. No wet loose avalanche concerns in the morning on the north face?
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Can't join you but would appreciate a conditions report if you do make it up! Have a good climb!
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I'm interested. Also based in Portland. Have glacier experience and have some exposure to crevasse rescue. Getting into ski mountaineering too. Have been up to 21k feet in Bolivia, and lesser easyish peaks in Peru. My normal climbing partner is my brother, but he's based in Bend and works 8 day shifts, so looking for other people to climb with as well. Trying to get up into the North Cascades more, though I'd like to do Jefferson as well. Send me a PM if you're still looking.
Thanks,
Kevin.
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Hm. Bedal north slopes still skiable?
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My brother and I have some unfinished business on Sloan peak and are starting to think about heading back up there. Being from Portland, I'd like to gather as much info as possible on road access, creek levels, amount of snow cover still up there. We had to turn back twice last year. Once due to becoming hypothermic after getting soaked on the approach from the wet bushwacking we had to do, and once due to being too late in the season and the Sloan glacier having no passage across it.
Anyone with good info?
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May do Leuthold Sun-Mon, so may see you up there. Might be a bit sketch with this recent snow dump though.
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Speaking of the start of Leutholds... anyone been over there recently? How many open cracks are there?
Also wondering about this. May try it next weekend if it doesn't sound too bad. And if I can find a partner.
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Awesome. I hope to do this as soon as I find a way to spend an entire day in my ski boots without wanting to amputate my feet.
Also, need to get better at skiing...
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Huh. Guess I've just gotten lucky on the few winter season climbs I've done. Maybe they have a little compassion for climbers who are likely freezing their asses off in the middle of the night.
Thanks Ben.
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Parking lot bivies are the normal at Timberline. Just check to be sure you are in the overnight parking area.
So what's the deal with getting a parking permit when doing an overnight summit attempt? I've never bothered to get a permit, parking in the overnight area and sometimes not getting back to the car until the afternoon the next day. I've never gotten a ticket. Now that I think about it though, it would make sense that I'd have to buy one...
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this could be from a rock-band that melted out when it was practically late may conditions back in mid/early april that then filled back in with wind deposition in sort of a snowbridge manner? Definitely not a crevasse in traditional sense, but sounds like it could mess someone up. Could be from warm water flowing underneath (WAG)?
This sounds like the most plausible to me. Just above that yellow line is where there are a series of rock formations (moraine) that tend to become more exposed as the weather warms. I can't imagine this being anything else.
A little disconcerting in any case...
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See my post above. We met skiers at Devil's Kitchen last weekend who said it was too icy up there. There were a lot of people skinning to the top of Palmer though. With the cold temperatures, I wouldn't even try to go above Palmer right now. It's going to be glass. No idea about Palmer itself.
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Went up for a little hike up to DK on Sunday. Really beautiful day... spent a good hour at the kitchen BSing with other climbers. Some avy crown cracks on the slope below Devil's Kitchen:
Otherwise, the cold snap had started freezing everything up. I imagine it's pretty solid ice by now.
Anybody been up Lethould Lately?
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Let us know how it goes.