pdx_snowclimb

Trip: Mt Adams - Mazama Glacier Date: 7/5/2015 Trip Report: Went up Adams via Mazama Glacier for the first time July 4th and 5th and had a great time. When we pulled into the ranger station (which was unnecessary) we heard that there were 200 people on the south side route. We met one other climber at Sunrise Camp who went up earlier that day and gave us some useful beta. Other than that the mountain was empty until we merged trails at the false summit. Took around 3.5 hours to reach Sunrise camp from trailhead (Birdcreek). The next day we started climbing roped up around 5:30 AM. The snow was good although it was warm (probably around 45 - 50 degrees F). We started off to the right to dodge some early crevassess, moved to the middle as it got steeper (30 to 35 degrees), then traversed back to the right between two crevasses roughly half way up. It was then a clear line to the top of the first section. We unroped for the second section of slightly steeper (I would guess around 40 degrees max) sun cupped snow. At this point I was in a t-shirt. It mellowed out and eventually lead us to the false summit (did not climb the headwall). Slogged to the summit and topped out just after 9:30 AM. On the way down the snow was quite soft, especially in the second section. Luckily the snow on the crevassed first section was better, although still soft, and we made it back to camp just after noon the same way we went up. As a FYI the south side route still had good snow coverage as far as I could see from the false summit. Not sure how the approach is on that route or the SW chutes. Approach (going back down): First section: Mind the gap: Second section: Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, rope, pickets (did not use) Approach Notes: Birdcreek. Easy trail that turns into a scree/rock/snow scramble. Took around 3.5 hours up.

Anyone gone up Adams via Mazama Glacier recently? Thinking about going this weekend and any beta would be great!