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RTHo

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Posts posted by RTHo

  1. Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody (Large) in Katalox color. Brand new with tags- $180 shipped.  

    I originally bought this and shortly after found a different color I liked better.  Things came up and I forgot to return it in time.  

     

    Black Diamond Guide Gloves (XL) in natural color. Virtually brand new- $120 shipped.

    I bought these and tried them on at the house and they felt fine.  Went out to do some crevasse rescue training and to test them out.  Discovered out there they were slightly too big and I took them off and wore a different pair of gloves.  They do not have tags but zero wear.  Bought the right size and love these gloves.  Recently wore them to the summit of Logan.

     

    Black Diamond Venom Ice Axe Hammer (50cm).  Shaft has wear and tear, pick and spike are solid- $100 shipped.

    This axe was always slightly too short to be perfect for me and I was recently gifted a different, longer axe so I figured it's time to let it go.  This is the older style Venom and I love everything about it other than the length for me. 

     

    Pictures of all three items here, including close ups of the wear, pick, and spike on the Venom. 
    https://imgur.com/a/fdhspdW

  2. Sounds like you may want to try an un-insulated boot? The Cubes are touted as being "warm".

     

     

    I honestly don't think that would make a big difference. My feet sweat (though not terribly) on a day to day basis. I think a 12 hour summit day will result in my feet wet regardless if I have a warm boot or not, but what do I know lol

     

    Start putting antiperspirant on your feet daily. Your feet wont sweat as much. Special Forces guys do it...

     

    I spent several years in the infantry and even lived with a Special Forces team for several months in Afghanistan. Never once heard of this. I'll Google it and check it out, thanks.

     

  3. Diligent boot moisture management is an age old problem. Here are some things that have worked for me:

     

    Bring extra footwear to wear around camp so the boots can dry out.

     

    I haven't done this in a while but using oven bags between the liner sock and wool sock can keep your boots dryer and supposedly stops the foot from sweating once it's wet. Kind of a PITA if you ask me but on a multi day trip could be useful. Also keeps your boot from getting wet from the inside.

     

    Changing socks occasionally and using some baby or gold bond powder helps.

     

    Trying to find a leather boot without a goretex liner might also be worthwhile. I hear Scarpa makes one.

     

    If you're walking around on wet snow all day, there's really not a lot that will keep your feet dry except a plastic boot.

     

    I changed into my approach shoes when we got to Muir, but my feet were not wet at that point.

     

    I only wear one pair of socks so not sure the oven bag idea would work. That also seems counterintuitive, no? Seems like that would warm my feet more.

     

    My boots are La Sportiva Nepal Cubes. I'm a big fan of them. I'll try the Gold Bond next time and see if that helps. Don't think I'll be wearing my boots for the rest of the year though, just trying to get ideas for next season. Thanks.

     

     

    What boots are you wearing? Double plastic? Heavily insulated single leather? If so, you may want to consider

    lighter, more breathable boots. Also, changing socks on the summit does not sound that unreasonable to me if your feet require it.

     

    La Sportiva Nepal Cubes.

     

    I suppose I could bring an extra pair and change them on the summit or wherever we stop for a lengthy break. It was incredibly windy on the summit on Sunday so we didn't stay long but at the top of the cleaver we stopped for some food and it was calm enough that I could have done that and let them air out for a little bit.

     

     

    Use fans:

     

    bootwithfan.jpg

     

    lmao, must have missed this model when I picked up my Cubes

  4. My feet run hot and after a long summit day they will be wet enough to become pruned and down climbing like that is killer. I just summited Rainier last weekend and by the time we got back to Muir my feet were destroyed. I took my boots and socks off for a bit to let them dry and changed socks and that made the hike down from Muir much easier but obviously I can't do that mid climb.

     

    So what's the solution? Gold Bond foot powder? I've tried different socks and it's the same issue. I'm using Darn Tough Mountaineering socks now and they are by far the best but again, after a long climb they still cause my feet to sweat.

  5. Any interest in doing Baker again or any other mountaineering? I just got into mountaineering and am trying to do another climb before the summer is over. I'm 26 from California and soloed Mt. Shasta for my first climb Memorial Day weekend and then climbed Mt. Adams two weekends ago, Mt. Hood last weekend and am about to do Shasta again this weekend.

  6. I just climbed Hood on Saturday via Old Chute. It was my first time on the mountain so I'm not familiar with other routes. We roped up after the Devil's Kitchen and put in a fixed line for the last ~100 feet just before the knife ridge as it was near vertical. I'd bring protection.

     

    The knife ridge wasn't bad, mix of snow and rock.

  7. depends on what you are looking for in prime. personally I find March-April to be perfect for climbing on Hood. That assumes you've got a weather window. Plenty of daylight, temps cold enough to keep things together, and the mountain is gorgeous plastered in rime and fresh snow. And less crowds.

     

    May probably prime month among the hordes.. I stop climbing it mid-may more or less, earlier depending on the snow year. Rock starts getting visible and streaking the snow, the snow around timberline starts getting pretty foul (for skiing down). But I'm biased since it is a backyard mountain. While it would be interesting I suppose, I've never once even thought of climbing in late June or July. Greener pastures in the NW.

     

    Thanks for the input. I'll definitely head up there around March-April, those conditions you described sound awesome. Some of the shots I've seen of climbers going through the Pearly Gates are amazing and I assume the shots I'm referring to are earlier in the year.

  8. I was there on Sat night/Sunday morning, season almost over. Pearly Gates is not accessible. Old Chute is still ok, very steep on the top, last 100 ft. Going up is ok, going down needs lots of attention.

    No danger for crevasses, sulfus gas very bad. Ice and rocks falling some danger.

    If you can, postpone it for May.

     

    Agreed. It was my first time climbing it. I definitely want to return next year earlier in the season, is May the prime month?

  9. I just climbed it with a group yesterday and conditions weren't great. Snow is melting fast and evidence of rock fall was very evident. There weren't any crevasses. You won't be able to take the hogsback through the PG though. You'll have to take the old chute. It's extremely steep towards the top. The knife ridge from here to the summit is a mix of snow and rock but it wasn't too bad. We left at 1:30am.

  10. Hey guys just a little update. I summited Mt. Adams yesterday. Unfortunately the weather was pretty bad and I was in cloud coverage almost the entire climb. I got to enjoy some nice views and an awesome sunset at the lunch counter on Saturday night, but Sunday was completely covered.

     

    ImY0wvO.jpg

     

    I'm climbing Mt. Hood this Saturday and then Mt. Shasta next weekend. Both climbs are being done through a veterans groups.

  11. Thanks for the replies everyone.

     

    I actually have two climbs planned with a veterans group at the end of July. Hood on the 23rd and Shasta on the 27th. I think I'll leave Hood for then and plan to climb something else solo, but at the same time I wouldn't mind doing it twice.

     

    the south side of hood's a very reasonable solo

     

    I was thinking of doing Hood, but when on Shasta I talked to others and quite a few said the top was a bit technical and wouldn't advise I go solo. They hadn't climbed it this year though, have the conditions changed through the Gates where it's doable solo?

     

    Lassen is a considerably smaller hill than Shasta.

     

    When I was working in southern Oregon I had similar problems findind good objectives.

     

    Roughly South to North:

     

    I wouldn't discount the Sierra. There are a ton of nice peaks that you can contrive a reasonable outing???

     

    Thielsen is a walk-up / scramble. Its kind of just a hike. Go to the Sierra.

     

    The Sisters are closer to you than anything else snowy except Shasta and provide some very reasonable somewhat snowy walk-up routes. S Sister has a very basic walk-up/ski down kind of thing. You can combine Broken Top same day. Its a reasonable day. Middle Sister is also a walk-up. You could do S Sister, Broken Top, and Middle Sister as a reasonable weekend trip. North Sister isn't a walk-up especially the summit so I would refrain from that one, although it's a nice climb with a partner.

     

    Jefferson via it's S side is also moderate but has a long approach so your mileage may vary.

     

    Hood as mentioned is a One-Trick Pony via the South Side, however it isn't the most insignificant thing and is a reasonable undertaking, requiring you know how to self-belay with 1-2 axes and self arrest, as the downclimb from the summit can be icy and error prone. Still, it was my first ever solo, and many people solo it every year. There are other routes on Hood that can also be soloed (like Cooper Spur) however I would do the S Side first to familiarize yourself with the standard descent.

     

    S Side of Adams is a very commonly climbed and skied solo. There is another route on Adams, the NE? ridge? which is a non-glaciated walk-up, and is commonly used as the descent for the Adams Glacier. I have only gone down it, but it seemed very moderate.

     

    St Helens is also a walk up, commonly climbed and skied.

     

    Almost all these volcano routes are best descended with skis, so if you have good ski skills and there are people around (it's bad form to sprain your knee or ankle on the big hill with no one around) then the ski down can be moderate if the corn sets up reasonably well.

     

    Further North you venture into more and more glaciation which for the solo traveler who is new to the mountains, suggest you do all the easy climbs first before you brave crevasse fields solo...

     

     

    HTH!

     

    My goal is to kinda hit all the Cascades, so even though Lassen doesn't compare to Shasta, I'd like to check it off. With it being the closest of all to me it's pretty tempting. I'm just not sure on the climbing conditions. I enjoy general hiking, but for climbing I want to do it when the snow is good and crampons are needed. Don't really have an interest in hiking any of these with little to no snow.

     

    I have not looked into he Sierras since my eyes had been set on the Cascades. I'll have to dig around and check out some peaks there.

     

    I was looking at Helens and it seems it's pretty late in the season for ideal climbing conditions. I have not skied since I was younger and want to have a solid foundation of climbing before I branch into that, but it is an interest.

     

    Gonna say +1 to both the South Side of Hood and Adams.... But my personal preference is to not Glissade (I have hip issues that prevent me). I did Lassen a few years back and I was a great solo trip..... It's just a trail to the top. Look at the Sisters, Broken Top, and St. Helens as well.

     

    I loved glissading and after hearing how great it can be on Adams I'm looking forward to it. Maybe I can plan for Adams 4th of July weekend.

     

    Does Lassen have actual climbing? You mentioned it's a trail, would I even need crampons and an ice axe? I'd rather wait to do earlier next year if it's too late now.

     

    Good suggestions above. Bump on Hood south side and Adams.

     

    If you got the money, buy an AT ski setup so you can skin up the boring parts and don't have to walk back down!

     

    I was envious of those flying past me on the way down of Shasta haha. One day.

  12. Can't comment on Oregon volcanoes. If you climbed Avalanche Gully the south side of Adams should be fine.

     

    Thanks for the reply. I was actually looking at Adams earlier today. I have a buddy in Portland that I can stay with and I will be visiting him a bit too so it should make the travel there easier. I was reading that July seems to be the best time for Adams, particularity with the glissading. I've heard how awesome glissading can be on Adams before so I'd like to do that in July if that's the ideal time. Would you suggest I wait until July for Adams?

     

    Looking from Portland, Helens is pretty close and seems like a straight forward day climb.

  13. Hey guys I'm new to climbing and am looking to take my second trip soon. I just climbed Shasta solo via Avalanche Gulch last weekend. I do not have a ton of experience so I don't want to take a too technical route and since I'm going solo that obviously leaves out any glacier routes.

     

    I'm going solo since I don't have anyone to go with. I'm trying to find a partner but in the meantime I'm not going to let it prevent me from going. I'm going to stick to the weekends since that not only agrees with my schedule but will allow for the highest chance of other climbers being present in case something happens.

     

    I'm down in San Jose so I was thinking Lassen Peak would be my next trip, though there isn't a whole lot of info on the route and climbing conditions like there is on Shasta.

     

    I was thinking of also branching up north to Oregon and trying one of the Sisters.

     

    I have all my own gear and am in pretty good shape. I summited Shasta from Lake Helen in just under four hours and I felt extremely comfortable and confident while climbing, to give some perspective. I'm signed up for a mountaineering course later this month to gain more experience as well.

     

    Thanks

  14. Hey everyone, very sorry I disappeared for a while. To be perfectly honest, a lot was going on at the time I made this thread and between all of the other research and posting I was doing at other sites, I simply forgot I had made this post here. Poor excuse I know.

     

    Since then, a lot has happened. I have all of my own personal gear and attempted Shasta twice with my sister and a buddy. The first time my buddy sprained his ankle pretty bad before we even hit the snow line and we had to turn back. The second time we made it to Lake Helen and practiced as much as we could since none of us had done this before. We were hit with a pretty bad storm which delayed our start time and unfortunately had to turn back after reaching the Red Banks, which was a bummer since the hardest part was behind us. I wanted us to keep pushing but I also had to play it safe and decided to turn us back.

     

    Being up there got me hooked though and I am anxiously awaiting the season to start to get back up on Shasta, we plan to return early in the season. My sister and I are also currently planning a trip to Nepal next spring. We plan to do Everest Base Camp trek and then climb Island Peak. I am very excited.

     

    If all goes well, I hope to hit several mountains in the Cascades next year.

     

    As for the gear, the most notable purchase I made were La Sportiva Nepal Cubes. These things were awesome on Shasta and as comfortable as any regular hiking boot. My feet never felt cold or uncomfortable. I also waited to pick them up from REI when they had a 20% coupon, so that made the purchase a bit easier.

     

     

     

    It's too bad the storm didn't pass earlier, it was a pretty nice day otherwise.

     

    KKkjKbW.jpg

  15. You ask good questions about what kind of clothing to purchase or whatever but I'd say that if you just up your game in slow steps you'll do fine. You've done winter backcountry expeditions in the Adirondaks? You're ready to try a winter outing in the Sierra or ...

     

    The gear you carry is not as important as you might think. Your success on a climb of Mt. Shasta will not depend on whether you bring down or synthetic insulation. McKinley and Aconcagua were first climbed well before modern fabrics were invented.

     

    You mentioned Denali and Aconcagua. If your goal is to climb famous peaks, and maybe the seven summits, take it slow. A good experiencial background may help you when you attempt the more dangerous summits.

     

    Thanks for the reply, Matt.

     

    I've never done any expeditions or backpacking in the Adirondacks before. It was all strictly infantry training using Army issued gear, for example using a -30 degree sleeping bag/system that weighed 10 pounds lol. When we did "climb" Marcy and other peaks it was not technical and we were weighed down, usually carrying our combat gear and weapons. The same went for the clothing, it was all Army issued so I don't have experience with the seemingly endless options when it comes to clothing. I think I may have just been over thinking it and I've already picked up a softshell jacket and will pick up the other layers over the next few weeks.

     

    Good point on the first climbers using what they had, again I was probably over thinking it.

     

    I definitely plan to take it gradual and slow, I just wanted to stress those larger ambitions to explain where my mind is at and that I want to jump into this with both feet. Both of those are far on the horizon and I don't plan to consider them until I have real experience climbing and some serious knowledge through additional classes.

     

    my two cents regarding down: a lot of it is treated now, in theory it should perform well even when moderately wet. For me so far, it's been fine on short multiday, but relatively dry (by PNW standards) trips.

     

    Keep it going man, don't overdo it, and work towards your goals in bite-sized, manageable chunks.

     

    Thanks Maurop, appreciate the encouragement.

  16. www.mountainproject.com, the classifieds here, ebay, geartrade can be useful... have to be diligent and check all these sources regularly - MP in particular is super active. Tons of new stuff posted every day. You can also post "WTB" (want to buy) threads, and, especially on MP, you'd be surprised how often someone has the piece you need in your size just taking up space in the closet.

     

    MP.com looks like an awesome place, going to check there daily. Thanks for the tip.

     

    Thanks for the reply, Pete. Are you saying to not even bother picking up Freedom of the Hills altogether?

     

    Of those type of courses you are suggesting, do you have any specific recommendations? I'm not opposed to taking different courses than a general intro with summit bid, I just thought that would be the most resourceful of my time and money. My problem is finding the right course to take, though I don't know if I'm over thinking it and pretty much any course I take will be good to go.

     

    I will definitely keep that puffy tip in mind, thanks. And I would definitely love to climb in Yosemite and Tahoe some day, I will absolutely take you up on that offer after I get some experience, thanks.

     

    Freedome of the Hills is "the Bible" of mountaineering, but it's kind of like a children's Bible. Good pictures and you get the point, but if you want to get serious about it you'll be left wanting more. I guess I just look at my bookcase and FotH is surrounding by other books that cover the same topics in more depth. If you're looking to save money, I'd start with skipping FotH. I'd recommend Michael Layton's Climbing Beyond the Basics as an overview book that isn't too broad to be useful.

     

    I took a trad anchors class at J Tree that was great https://www.joshuatreerockclimbing.com/sem4.html. I also have a friend who's an single-pitch rock instructor in Northern California. If you're interested, I'll send you his info.

     

    My crevasse rescue class with Rainier Mountaineering was great. My "Mountaineering Class" with RMI was a waste of time and money. All classes are good, but specific well-tailored classes are well worth the money. In Cali, there are some great resources. Sierra Mountain Guides is a fantastic company based out of Bishop.

     

    Classes may seem expensive, but the amount you'll learn (especially if you prepare beforehand) is fantastic. Also, you'll be trusting your life to your skills - probably worth the extra few $100 bucks

     

    Gotcha thanks. I'll take the advice and pick up something more in depth like your suggestion.

     

    It sounds like I may get better training for the money if I take more specific classes than a broad climb, maybe I'll go that route. I'd like to get the basics down and gain the skills required for me to climb some of the easier routes of smaller mountains and then get into some advanced classes to be able to expand my skills for something like Rainier. At least that's what makes sense in my head.

  17. RTHo,

    Climbing Beyond the Basics has everything! Forget Freedom of the Hills.

     

    If I could do it all over again I would do these things in this order.

    - Take an anchors class preferably trad anchors.

    - Take a crevasse rescue class. Read Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue

    - Take an avy class. Read Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain

    - Find internet partners who are officially experienced (guides, ski patrol, etc) and safe and pick their brains.

    - Get a puffy and always take it with you. That's your get out of jail free card when you screw up and get stuck out all night, which you will.

     

     

    If you ever want to climb in the Tahoe or Yosemite area, send me a PM.

     

    Thanks for the reply, Pete. Are you saying to not even bother picking up Freedom of the Hills altogether?

     

    Of those type of courses you are suggesting, do you have any specific recommendations? I'm not opposed to taking different courses than a general intro with summit bid, I just thought that would be the most resourceful of my time and money. My problem is finding the right course to take, though I don't know if I'm over thinking it and pretty much any course I take will be good to go.

     

    I will definitely keep that puffy tip in mind, thanks. And I would definitely love to climb in Yosemite and Tahoe some day, I will absolutely take you up on that offer after I get some experience, thanks.

     

    Used climbing kit! Don't buy new!

     

    This is actually an ethic, for me.. but it just makes huge economical sense also. $600 for a shell? Hell no.. how about the same level jacket for more like $150 or $200? Yea.

     

    I go back and forth on down vs. synthetic... if synthetic was as compressible as down, I'd accept the weight sacrifice.. but my biggest problem with synthetic has always been the space it takes up in the pack. You just cannot get near the compression with synthetic stuff. And if you're not going to be climbing IN your down (and I don't know why you would) and it's definitely going to be cold and dry... all my stuff is down, right now. Maybe I'll go synthetic again at some point in the future, as technology gets better

     

    "Light is right" has always been my mantra, but this falls on it's face when light starts to encroach on function and comfort. Do not sacrifice basic comfort or critical kit necessities for light weight. Who cares if you get up and down 15 minutes faster if you're uncomfortable the whole time? And those 15 minutes, or even 2 hours, saved won't be worth much when your ultra light shit fails in the field because it's too light and can't even hold up to normal use. Dynafit, anyone? There's some really expensive, extremely cheap ass shit out there. You'll experience it. (Where you at, Astrov)

     

    Hooah, BTW. I did an extremely short, non-combat stint as an 11B, long, long ago.. but I still think of myself as Infantry. Let me know if you want to take a run up Hood sometime... I'm very familiar with the mountain, and could lend you some hard-earned alpine knowledge.

     

    Thanks Ben! Fellow 11 bang bang here. I only got out a few years ago but I still miss it sometimes haha.

     

    I've been looking to buy used where I can but am not seeing a large selection. The best site I've found for used gear so far is www.geartrade.com but I have yet to see anything I need on there. Do you have any particular sites in mind? I've been stalking Craigslist as well but I guess living in the heart of the Silicon Valley doesn't really result in a lot of used mountaineering gear.

     

    The down vs. synthetic debate has come up every time I try to do some research. As you said, I like the idea of the compressibility of down. It seems to be a matter of personal preference from everything I've read. I definitely want to keep the weight down as much as possible, but I am not interested in going super ultra light weight or whatever the latest name is. I can actually handle weight on my back quite well (though we will see if/how that changes when climbing) and while I'm not going to purposely load my pack with unnecessary weight, I won't sacrifice any necessities for the sake of weight.

     

    After I get my feet wet in a course and understand the basics I would definitely love to climb Hood and appreciate the offer. If I learned anything in the infantry it was follow the experienced guys haha.

  18. Thanks for the reply, Buck.

     

    Keeping light is definitely something I've been trying to stick with. Currently I plan on using an Osprey Atmos AG 65 that I picked up recently. It was a big improvement over my old pack and while it's not the lightest, it definitely makes the same weight load feel lighter versus my old, lighter pack. Perhaps as I get more into this I can upgrade to a lighter, climbing specific pack.

     

    So it sounds like for climbing in the wetter mountains of Oregon a different puffy would work better than say Shasta or Rainier. I was kind of hoping to find one that could fit the bill for most climbs in California, Oregon and Washington. Essentially I want to build up to Rainier so I will definitely be planning on climbing in those generally drier conditions plus in Oregon's cascades.

     

    So for the hardshell it seems like I could probably get away with something cheaper since my climbs starting out will be ~3-5 days max. I forgot to mention another hardshell on the cheaper side, the OR Foray. For 120 bucks it's definitely a nice price. The Arcteryx Alpha SL does look very nice though and would definitely be more durable. The fact that it's five ounces lighter than the Foray is nice too but the SL is obviously on the guide level.

     

    Wow, that class sounds awesome! Too bad I can't find anything like that now.

     

    By no means am I dead set on Shasta as the first climb or the course, it's simply the most practical for me due to my location. I am not opposed to heading north to attend a course but I would prefer to go no further than Oregon.

     

    Do you have any particular courses in mind? Thanks again.

  19. Bronco, thank you for the reply I appreciate it.

     

    Steve Houses's book sounds packed with information, I will pick that up as well.

     

    When you refer to sub 10k peaks, is this to assume that those jackets would not be ideal for Shasta or Rainier? Since Shasta will likely be my first climb and Rainier being my short term goal I'll definitely be above that 10k mark.

     

    Do you think the down jackets I listed would be too much? The Arcteryx Nuclei and the LT Hoody look interesting. If I could find the Nuclei for 150 that would be awesome.

     

    As for the hardshell do you think I'll need something as serious as the Patagonia M10 or Arcteryx Alpha SL or would I be fine with something like the OR Helium II?

     

    I just don't want to get clothing that will be overkill for the PNW even if I plan to climb outside of it eventually unless of course that same clothing while being overkill would still be fine for climbing here. If that makes sense lol.

     

    Thanks again, Bronco.

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