christensent

Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain is the one you want.

I was up there last Sunday, and they decided they needed to close the gate at 3pm for seemingly no reason, blew my plans. Hope it doesn't get even more unpredictable than it already was.

You'd have to deal with the BS of a road walk: http://www.nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/road-conditions.htm Edit: Correction, the road is closed even to foot traffic. Forbidden peak is forbidden unless you wanted to do it via El Dorado trail

I'm also looking to do Fisher Chimney route over the weekend, not Thursday though.

Bottom of the Coleman Glacier on Baker can't be beat for easy-access serac climbing. A few miles and something like 1500ft of elevation gain gets you there. I was there a few weeks ago, it's all ice now and was easy plastic ice. At Rainier I go to the Nisqually for this, but unless everyone already has a Rainier climbing card it doesn't financially make sense to go to Rainier for serac climbing if you want to do it legally.

If you want to go on a weekday, there's a good chance you won't have a problem but yes it is limited. If you want to go on a weekend, I've had reservations rejected even a month in advance for Muir in peak season on a weekend. You can usually get a permit for Muir Snowfield which ends something like 1000 feet below Camp Muir, nobody wants to be there but it could be ideal for a training hike, might even be more pleasant than Muir since you wouldn't be with hundreds of climbers making noise all night.

From the rainier climbing blog... "The general consensus is that the glaciers are in mid-late summer condition, and that the snow is in spring condition not quantity. If you are planning on voyaging on a lesser traveled route expect heavy slogging, flotation recommended." ID is already out and there are already bridge crossings at the top of the cleaver. Sounds like July-August up there.

Went looking for it today, walked along the river for about 0.75 miles to what looks like it may have once been a river cable crossing, then bush whacked quite a ways up hill probably 750ft vertical. Never found anything that looked anything like the pictures, no towers anywhere. Must have missed something obvious... anyone have coordinates for it?

Anyone up for some alpine climb this coming weekend? Will lead steep snow/AI2, and will follow you on AI3. Thinking the Ice Cliff Glacier might be fun but open to anything that fits the bill!

Looking to head up to the North Cascades this weekend but don't have a partner. Depending on weather and conditions, ice (assuming some still exists) or snow climbing. I'd probably go up the whole weekend. PM if interested.

Went up there today, not much snow left. Just a bunch of slush and snice and rock passages. Didn't go very far up, snow just fell apart when you touched it.

Looks like this weather window will hold through next weekend. Assuming it does, anyone want to go up Rainier? Either ID or the ledges (both of which were going this weekend). I had some route finding difficulties entering the ledges yesterday so if that route, ideally someone who has done it before.

From what I heard up at Muir, the huge avalanche on the Ingraham occurred mid-week. This is probably why it was easy last weekend and pretty much out this weekend.

Rainier looks mighty summer-like Sunday-Tuesday. Anyone want to go check out Gib Ledge on Sunday night? I'd need to make plans ASAP as to get Monday off at work. Been up in the summer and have quite a bit of glacier experience.

Alpental Falls today. Practice Gully looked best, unfortunately it was dark when we started up so didn't notice. A couple groups went up that today.

Alpental is pretty much out. Checked out Alpental Falls, Alpental IV, and Chockstone Falls (at least I assume based on the map of the area). All fully detached ice columns with pretty broken tops. Didn't get on any good ice. There were a few lines that probably could have gone but it would be pretty sketch. And now it's been raining all day. Kept going hoping to check out source lake but the Avy risk was too much and it was dumping. Recent slab activity all the way down to the snow lake trail with a good 2-3 feet of snow out a bit past the snow lakes turn sign. Literally seconds from being wiped off the face of Alpental Falls from a big sluff while evaluating ice after going a little ways up.

I was going to go check out Alpental area tomorrow. I was driving over the pass today and stopped in and it looks like there is ice that might go but didn't get too close to really check it out. Anyone think there's hope there?

I have size 45 baruntse boots that are long enough for my feet, but not wide enough or tall enough around the 5th metatarsal. I've had them bumped out and up numerous times and they won't hold any more push. They're not even close to big enough (they've never been great, but my feet have grown wider over the last year or two, and I imagine the boots shrank as every mountaineering boot I've ever owned has except the Nepal). I can sort of get them to work with thin wool socks with no liner socks, super thin 2.5mm insoles, and loosely tying the lower half. But it's just not good. Does anyone know of a double that is specifically much higher volume than the Baruntse? These have destroyed too many trips.

Anybody want to go seracing on Baker this weekend? Weather is looking nice. I was thinking a late start on Saturday and camp up there, although schedule is flexible. I have ice climbing gear and a few screws but only a 30m twin rope. PM me if interested. New to this site, been posting on nwhikers for a while but of course there are more climbers here!