lutzman
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Posts posted by lutzman
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Just got into touring and would like to find some people to get out with. Looking into everything ranging from finding decent turns to heading out on bigger ski mountaineering trips. I have high aspirations as far as both skiing and climbing and look forward to the many classic ski descents the cascades offers. Although new to skiing in the backcountry i've been climbing several years and alpine skiing for over 20. send a pm if interested.
-Taylor
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Wish they would've discussed the pnw a bit longer. I get it, Patagonia is the shit!
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a short list of a few of the qualities you listed:
-be patient
-have a lot of patience
-Should have a great deal of patience.
-Diplomacy and patience are essential.
-be patient
anything else you're looking for?
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ps: leaving Seattle 6:30am, return by 3pm or so. I'll drive.
If you weren't going tomorrow id love to go. i'm all free sat/sun and dying to find a partner
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was really hoping to get out and get some excercise this weekend as the forecast is looking sick. was maybe interested in stuff like north twin, colchuck, the tooth, unicorn etc. snow stability is of concern but thinking its worth checking out. all that to say I could be talked into just climbing at index for the day, I don't really care just want to get out if someone needs a partner for the day.
-Taylor
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looking for some partners to get out and climb with throughout the winter, particularly people I can learn some fundamentals from in the way of ice/mixed. Although I'm happy leading rock up to 5.8 I haven't done much in the way of swinging tools. Last winter I had several trips on the volcanoes and some other smaller peaks. This year, I'd like to start working on steeper, more technical routes. As far as ideas, NBC on colchuck has my interest, as does a variety of stuff on in the stuart range. Anything on Hood, etc etc. just a couple ideas and open to a lot more. I'm located in Seattle and work weekdays until February. Let me know if your interested at any point this winter.
-Taylor
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That route was probably my first climb, back, circa 1974. I had a spiffy new MSR yellow perlon climbing rope, rated at an impressive one fall!
Midway into what may have been the first pitch, I pulled off a fair sized rock, not quite of the size of your rockery de construction. But it chopped that new rope almost completely into two pieces. We retreated, to climb another day.....
I quit climbing way too long ago, but have been a practising arborist for 40 years now. I visit this forum now and then, but just joined, to reply and describe my similar adventure.
Thanks for sharing. I was actually surprised my own rope was undamaged. it was a little close for comfort, but its these times after a safe finish where the beers taste the best in my opinion!
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I threw the helmet on about 50 ft above this photo at the start of the route, along with the harness and rock shoes. Wish I could say I booted to the top!
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Trip: Chair peak - NE Buttress
Date: 10/11/2015
Trip Report:
On saturday afternoon I enjoyed a day of relaxation inside as heavy rain poured over the northwest. I spent the day plotting and brainstorming anything to do with my sunday, which looked favorable forecast-wise. Just needed a partner and a climb that would be exciting enough yet relatively easy given rock everywhere would likely be wet. Decided on Chair peak and enlisted my partner in crime Jimmie Smith.
We arrived at the parking lot shortly after 7am sunday morning and spent about 2.5 hours navigating our way up to the buttress. We saw the sun occasionally, while the mountain largely stayed shrouded in cloud cover. I racked up and started climbing into the foggy void excited for some cruiser scrambling/climbing. First pitch was of course the gully trending right, then up into the cluster of trees. As I expected, water was running down much of the entire first pitch. Although wet and without reliable protection, climbing was easy.
Almost at the top of the first pitch, where the gully climbs back directly up, I met a ledge. Here I placed a small cam, next to my piece were two large detached blocks about the size of a large torso each. Barely grazing them as I passed, both blocks rolled, dropped off the ledge into the gully and exploded. Most of the the bigger pieces of shrapnel bounced out and over the rim of the gully but to my horror many of the large pieces launched climbers left into the gully back to my belayer. Although rattled, when the smoke cleared Jimmie was unscathed and very lucky this time. Somewhat shaken I finished the pitch, brought him up and we exchanged expressions of holy fuck.
Next pitch, we climbed from the tree/heather bench up to another grouping of trees on the right hand side, just to the left of the arete. From here, while most people go left toward easier 4th class, I stayed right and lead up what looked like drier and better, albeit, more difficult rock. Moves were low 5th, but with slimy, insecure footing, and relatively sparse pro, I got my dose of adrenaline on this pitch. From here we climbed up more 3rd and topped out receiving views and sunshine on the summit. Maximum stoke ensued.
Most route descriptions describe the descent as a mix of downclimbing and rappelling. We downclimbed from the summit back to the top of pitch 3 and from there we were able to make 5 single rope rappels to the base with almost no downclimbing mixed in. This put my mind at ease as I wanted nothing to do with the predominately wet rock at this point.
The route was definitely more of a challenge than the 4th class scramble I expected. Much of that was based on my route choice and conditions, but, its reputation for loose rock is obviously well deserved. Felt good to push through all the difficulties and hazards and top it out, that’s what makes a great adventure.
sunshine on the approach
foggy scrambling on the approach
sunshine again and views out to Chimney from the summit
Gear Notes:
small rack
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Or maybe you're just an asshole?
Oh, an asshole? I am not the one endorsing profiteering from someone's death, and traumatizing living members of the family. That's exactly what you are doing. So to be frank- go fuck yourself with your self righteous attitude.
the spray is strong with this one.
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need a partner, free all day tomorrow through monday. up for most anything thats ~5.8/5.9 trad or 5.10 sport. would love to do some cragging for a few days in vantage, leavenworth, also had interest in stuff like: vesper peak-ragged edge, green giant buttress, burgandy spire or similar. feel free to contact me by phone. -Taylor
509-669-5809
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Somehow I missed the memo and drove up to climb in the boston basin yesterday. Didn't find out until I stopped in marbelmount for a permit that the road is closed at the eldorado TH.
Closure is in effect until late October, make other plans if you were heading up in the next few weeks.
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lighten up francis, im just tossing shit!
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Hopefully you're better at climbing than you are at grammar haha. Sorry had to say it!
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Trip: Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete
Date: 8/4/2015
Trip Report:
Went up serpentine this week. Approach was seamless making it to the base without touching feet to snow. Climbed four easy but relatively wandery pitches before getting to the black tower. After the crux pitches we pretty much simuled the remainder of the route, occasionally stopping to exchange gear or to reduce drag. I lead the second half of the route and picked the easiest line up the ridge veering right to avoid difficulties which kept the climbing below mid class 5 the entire time. Vast majority was class 4 however, rarely above it. I knocked a couple rocks loose higher on the route accidentally (sorry Janet!), teetering rocks were fairly abundant. All in all we spent 9 hours total between our camp at colchuck and the summit.
The descent was uneventful. Although the snowfield looked firm when we bypassed it the previous day, the booting was soft and did not require any gear, glad to have left pons and axes at the car this trip. I wore microspikes over my running shoes and my partner wore her hiking boots and we made it down to the pass fast and safe stress-free. Great trip.
Gear Notes:
full rack to 3"
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Was hoping to solo a few routes at index if possible. Anyone know of any 5.8-5.10 routes I could tryout? I've climbed once at great northern slab just hoping I could find a few cool routes without too much freesoloing involved to fix a toprope.
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looking at long alpine moderates like the ones mentioned or similar. email: lutztaylor76@gmail.com
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If I lose or forget my climbing pass do I really have to pay for another one? Is the park really this wack?
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Trip: Forbidden Peak - East Ridge
Date: 7/2/2015
Trip Report:
Had a great trip last week on Forbidden. Neither of us had summited Forbidden before, and although the west ridge is the notoriously popular route and obvious first choice for most climbers, we both fell for the allure of the slightly more challenging east ridge. I honestly cannot imagine how the classic west route could be any better, more beautiful, scenic, or exposed than the east ridge. This climb is quality! I'll be interested to climb the west ridge eventually to know for myself.
After picking up the last permit for the boston basin wednesday morning, I met marlin at the trailhead and were hiking by around 3pm. Despite the heat of the day, we made good pace and arrived at the upper bivy sites in a couple hours. With daylight available we continued on towards the ridge making easy progress up the slabs and eventually onto the glacier.
Unnamed Glacier
We donned crampons and axes, and made easy passage through the right most gully. The gully consisted of a short snow climb transitioning to 3rd class rock for about 40-50 feet and back to snow again. The rock transition as well as a small shrund warranted some light caution but it was overall very straight forward.
Exiting the gully, we found our bivy spot about 100-200ft below the solitary gendarme. We expected and hoped to find something on the ridge proper but the spot we found was the most favorable of anything.
High bivy
Started leisurley around 9am, took to the ridge and began climbing. Marlin led while I followed, simuling for the first 3-4 pitches. We stayed on the crest almost the entire ridge, climbing the gendarmes, downclimbing as necessary with one rapel right before the 5.8 pitch. Sometimes the climbing was somewhat difficult, often very easy, but always exposed! Made it to the summit around 12:30.
On Forbidden, the summit is only half the battle as everyone knows. The ledges went a lot quicker than expected but I would agree with Nelson and Potterfield that the east ledges descent route is a little stressful. Every step is a step of absolute intent. That said I can't say a carryover/downclimbing the west ridge would've been easier or more enjoyable.
east ledges
overall really fun climbing this. Its hard to imagine greater exposure than staring into the abyss of the boston glacier. Thanks Marlin for taking advantage of the great weather with me.
Gear Notes:
single set of C4s, axe, crampons
Approach Notes:
Bugs suck right now. Water level on the last creek is fairly high, we hiked about 100 feet upstream and found a crossing.
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im interested in partnering up for some alpine objectives next week monday-thursday if anyone is free. Im planning on climbing forbidden saturday and sunday and would like to do some more stuff in the vicinity.
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redundancy is everything in climbing so i'm surprised someone instructed you that one is sufficient, especially when it takes a couple minutes to bury a picket
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[TR] Camp Muir Conditions Report - Wind Slab Release - 2/24/2016
in Mount Rainier NP
Posted
That's really fucking wack, another reason I hate the national parks