NDrake

I saw something out of place on snowcreek wall descent yesterday, found this lonely sole out on a slab. Looks like an older ace?

Based on what we saw last year I'd agree. Although I'm thinking it might be best mid winter with a high pressure window straight up the north with some planks under your feet, might have to take the splitboard out there one of these days.

I did the route July 5-6 last year. I have to agree with Jason, with more snow it would be much more enjoyable and cruiser. There was far more snow when we went than in current photos on this TR, but the summit block was still exposed rock. A bit chossy with no real pro, I'M LICHEN IT! The only rock we found that was decent to rap off could only be loaded in the direction of pull........don't kick it while your partner is heading down

Trip: WA Pass, Liberty Bell and SEWS - Overexposure and SW Rib Date: 5/30/2015 Trip Report: Went out Saturday and Sunday at WA Pass, got a late start Saturday. Arrived at the gully to find multiple groups on Beckey Route. A guide recommended bypassing them by taking overexposure. Fun route, but the 5.8 climbing is short lived. Sunday we went back up to do the SW Rib on SEWS, what a fun route! We did the "classic" start of the 5.8 wavy crack. No snow left on route through the upper gully past rabbit ears. Next time I won't take the rap off rabbit ears, once you see them head right around the tree and downclimb blocky terrain to the gully instead. With a belay below the joke of a bolt on the last slab pitch a 70m came a bit short of the tat on the ears and we had to simul. Placements were 20-50 feet spread out on long slings and the rope drag was still horrendous. Gear Notes: C4 from .75-#5. Doubles of #2 and #3. Didn't really need a #4 a #5 for bearhug pitch is nice Metoliuos mc down to yellow, smaller cam would have been nice on 2nd pitch overexposure Random selection of nuts Brought some cowbells, waste of weight and space. Approach Notes: Lower trail: Melting snow on blue lake trail, some gloppy mud. There was snow connecting to the highway in the woods at the right switch back still on Sunday, may be gone soon though. Liberty Bell: Snow in the upper gully was decent for plunge steps in approach shoes, but bringing an axe is a good idea just in case. No need for crampons IMO. SEWS: Snow in the upper area is melting out rapidly. Lots of tree wells and moats. Snow is opening up over creeks, definite potential to fall in running water soon. May consider taking rock slabs at the steeper pitch instead. Snow is melted out in couloir and it's an easy scramble around the chockstone if doing that start. NEWS: Another party reported a heinous steep snow descent in rock shoes.

Did the route on the 23rd, snow has melted off of the actual route fully now. Finished via the 5.6 lieback to chimney. Got my 50cm axe on the pack jammed in the chimney, interesting indian squat double knee bar to get it free, don't be an idiot like me. Did single rope raps down the north on existing tat, it's probably better to head west and use the other stations part way down as described in this TR. We got the rope soaking wet going through snow sections and then traversed 40-45 degree isothermal mush back to the balanced rock. That was sub optimal. If you want friction pitches go to Darrington. Lead a 5.9 there and that little 5.7 won't even make you bat an eye!

Nice TR! I was over on Three O'Clock on Monday also, was the wind not too bad for you guys? We could barely holler up a 50 meter pitch.

Thought I would follow up on this one for anyone searching. When I called Dave Page's shop they *thought* there were some 43 mulaz soles kicking about, but only one or two left. I went to remove the laces from these and clean them up first, realized that all the webbing lace loops were nearly worn clean through. Decided it wasn't worth spending $80 on a resole for a boot that I won't be able to lace up by July. Ended up buying a pair of the new rebel pros. The little bit of insulation did add some nice padding for the tongue (one poor point of the rebel carbon). The rubber sticking out for a toe welt is going to really going to kill that great feel that the carbons had on rock though.

Yup, if they did a lot of methods that would probably be me! Actually I don't know of any other Nick Drake's who rode Schralpental so I'm sure it was.

Decent of use, typically 2-3 climbs a month during the summer the last two years. Still expected to get a little more use out of them. Wish I hadn't used them on conditioning hikes now, cheap trail runners would be a better idea. I think it was pivoting on holds that did them in around the rand though. Seems that a few people have the same result sepultura. If I can't get these repaired I'll probably end up ordering another pair from somewhere in Europe. Everything else (that fits my foot) feels like a clunky pair of clown shoes compared to these.

After two solid seasons of summer climbing the sole on my rebel carbons has worn through right at the toe/rand. I know Scarpa NA stopped selling these in the states in 13, but it appears that they may still be produced for Europe. Has anyone else had these re-soled? Were you able to get the original carbon shank sole sourced?

I've used a speed 40 on a few overnight to multi-day trips as well as touring to approach ice climbs. As stated above, the "active suspension" was really not appreciated while riding. I had to really crank down the shoulder straps to try to reduce the movement. If you have a dry approach with an a-frame and boots it really weights your shoulders, then again I've never found a pack that I felt carried great in that case. I normally avoid the crazy retail, but dead bird khamski line would be worth a look for an overnight pack. I've been using their quintic for day tours this year and the fit, features and detailing are great. Khamski is pretty light for a featured pack with 420 fabric. Don't forget to bring a starbucks mocha with you at the start of tours though.

I see this trend happening with people who *usually* have limited experience splitboarding. They decide to learn to ski late in life and immediately want to go in the backcountry (since that was their whole goal in the first place). There is a big problem, becoming a TRULY competent expert skier takes years. Going out and skiing variable snow/terrain without the proper skill set does make you a liability for your touring partners. A torn ACL in the backcountry is no joke. Please don't take that as a personal attack, it's just an observation I've seen. You mentioned wanting to ski inbounds for at least a season first, you get it, but a lot of people do not. As for splitboarding and efficiency in the mountains, when it comes to transitioning you will never match the times of someone with tech bindings, no way around it. You can significantly lower your time if you think about little ways to be more efficient. If you have been touring for 2-4 hours on a big day no one is going to jump up and down angry that you took a minute longer than them anyway. Rolling terrain? Buck up and ride faster to get further in the flats. Transition to touring and just drop a knee on the downhills, it's pretty easy to ski down moderate slopes with skins on. If you come to a mellow 500 foot downslope on the tour out and your ski friends take their skins off you may actually make it to the bottom before they have put skins back on, it's happened to me many times. In terms of mountaineering/climbing what are you objectives? If it's just regular volcano ski mountaineering the fitwell soft boots will take a crampon perfectly and work well while using the bindings you already own. Beware the liners suck, there is a good chance you will end up getting intuitions. I think hardboots are a better long term solution for touring. Great weight reduction while touring, faster transitions (depending on binding), WALK MODE, you can wear lycra and no one will question it, and you get to sing the "juicy fruit" song from their ads in the 80s while touring. I just had a set of TLT6s fit, haven't had a chance to ride them yet but am very impressed by the carpet flex test. Without mods they seem similar to my salomon malamutes when they were newish. Very light and well fitted. Swinging a crampon around in to some wood in the garage they feel much more precise than any snowboard boot, but that might be a placebo effect after spending all the money. For touring give the toe pieces that Chris of Ranger Bindings in New Zeleand is making, lighter than dynafit and no icing in springs. Spark does have the Dyno DH hardboot binding available, same tesla system as your current bindings. It won't pull the board as tight as the phantom set up, but it's much cheaper and doesn't require as much clearing of ice (phantom fit is very precise). If you really want to learn to ski go for it, the important thing is having fun. If you're just considering it because you felt splitboarding wasn't "efficient" then look for ways to mitigate the drawbacks. I wouldn't drop something I spent decades mastering that is very enjoyable just because I hadn't mastered a new way to travel doing it.

Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it! I do think that I would save this one for later in the season. If there is snow in the chimneys you're really cheating yourself out of a fun scramble! I'll take ice on the steeps over a self belaying glop fest any day also.

Trip: Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys and SE ridge Date: 9/11/2014 Trip Report: Last Thursday we did Fisher Chimneys to the SE ridge in a push. Winnies slide is very much ice, some crevasses across the main face. Upper Curtis was still easy passing, but bridges were getting thin in a few spots. Hells Highway was a bit icy down low, more neve up high. Sulphide was great, may be a moat opening on the existing path to the summit block. SE ridge isn't as bad as people make it sound, not really sure why you would wear rock shoes unless you want to get really adventurous. The full monty Gear Notes: 60m half rope Sum'tec and nomic (me) Corsa nano and nomic (partner) 12 point steel 4 screws (did not place) 1 picket (did not place) Small rack (1-3 per pitch on SE ridge) 3 tri cams for anchors (did not place, great sling spots abound)

Telletubie vision

Trip: Lane Peak - Zipper Couloir Date: 5/3/2014 Trip Report: A late gate opening and difficulty finding a bridge got out us out later then I had hoped. On the tour up a snowball off a tree caused a point release of slough around Theresa, covering the skin track I just made. At the same time Jen slipped and separated her shoulder. She skied out with a makeshift vest/sling like a champion, but needless to say it was not a good day. So after the intense warming this week we had high hopes that the snow that was ready to go already had. Theresa was back in along with Elliot. The approach was straight forward, I toured straight up to a bridge further up the valley and no serious shenanigans were had touring (unless you count my downhill tele-split turns from the road, free your heel, break your face). There was evidence of wet slides during the week, but not nearly as much or as destructive as I expected for how hot it had been. Lovers Lane definitely got narrower though. Theresa and Elliot made it up to the col with no difficulty. Being stubborn I tried in vain to tour up a narrow section that went over 35 degrees and had a collapsed section to waterfall. It ended up with me boot packing eventually for 20 feet. Stupid waterfall ruining my bragging rights. Upon getting to the top of the zipper I definitely had a pucker moment, this surely couldn't be what I rode last year. Upon peering down it was definitely the familiar line though, but with a much spicier entrance then last year. There was talk about whether or not to ski it, the entrance was no wider then 1.5 ski lengths, and even though it doesn't show in photos I estimate around 50 degrees. The snow was soft enough to have good edge hold though. I was going for it, Theresa thought for a while and was in, Elliot knew he was capable of the line but just was not feeling it and decided to ride out the col. I dropped first, with my axe at the ready just in case it got too icy. I had to make up for the hundreds of jackass snowboarders that side slip every good chute in the sidecountry, no slipping, just turns. I did have to break down and bust out the awesome 80s jump action as it was far too narrow to be on snow, but I turned damnit! Center slide line was a tad icy, but had good hold, newer snow on the sides was a bit gloppy, but there was minimal slough. Overall good conditions for this time of year. No trough down the center made the going easier also. Once I got below the chockstone I waited for Theresa. She decided to take a wiser approach to the entry and got in with a series of side steps and axe self belay moves. Once she got down I took the lower section skiers left, the right side I've normally ridden was mostly rocks. The apron had new wet snow that was some of the stickiest I've ever seen in my life. At the bottom we stopped at a rock to eat lunch, just as it started to rain. I ended up touring back out in nothing but hardshells and my underwear due to the heat and constant rain. I love the northwest. More pics Gear Notes: Left boot crampons at the base, brought an axe up. Approach Notes: Climbers descent route

What a different year.....

Trip: Cascade Pass - Sahale Arm Date: 1/4/2014 Trip Report: We figured Sahale would be a good place to get turns in without a million other people around. We were right, there was one other party of 3. Snow on the road really starts after mineral park campground, it was a little interesting in a Honda Fit without snow tires, but manageable. With the melt and freeze happening it will probably be more interesting shortly, consider bringing chains just in case. Gate is closed at the eldorado turn off. It's an easy skin on the road with no carries. A little slide alder section out of the summer lot, not too bad. Sahale appeared wind scoured. We decided to drop back in to Pelton Basin from low on the arm. Snow was varying depth over a firm base (I only hit once on a small drop). It was very well bonded to my surprise. Just cohesive enough that it could turn in to a wind slab if there was a change in direction though, use your own judgement. Riding back from Cascade Pass the snow varies more, decent powder can be found on local leeward rolls. Some cornice/avy debris in the basin to avoid, followed by ALDER FACE SHOTS! Of note CJ appears to be continuous now, it was hard to get a clear view of the top being in the shade though. Pictures Gear Notes: Ski crampons would be a nice luxury in a few places, really just extra weight though. Approach Notes: Road tour has no carries.