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About bevans

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  • Birthday 07/24/1978
  1. Smith Rock this weekend?

    FYI Jacob...Trout Creek is closed for raptors as of today. Yes everyone is sad about this.
  2. Scarpa Rebel GTX Carbon - size 45.5 -Trade?

    I have only used them once but I'm a fan. They are not comparable to the Nepals though ... if that's what you are looking for. They're a very light weight, un insulated alpine boot with semi-auto compatability. Perfect for an alpine objective that might see everything from moderate ice after a glacier approach followed by a lot of moderately technical rock. They walk very well but are still plenty stiff. they're toe-box fits my toes really well. I have not climbed rock in them yet but they should handle it just fine. $0.02
  3. Waaaaay long shot ...... but looking to trade these for a half size smaller. These are almost like new. Would trade for a used pair in good condition.
  4. I'd say don't let all the negativity dissuade you. The crater is normally not as penitente'd (?) out as the above photo. While not frequent, camping in the crater is relatively common. You can often find a spot that's slightly more protected. Worst case scenario (barring a shit-storm on the summit in which case you'd hopefully either never climb or descend w/o bivying) you'd just end up with a cool story about another miserable night in the hills. Best case, cool story about another beautiful night in the hills. Both worth it. Late August weather can go either way but is often nice. I wouldn't put too much stock in any predictions made now. Conditions on the DC route were "interesting" this past season...but no telling what that means for next year. So set your dates and go give 'er. Be safe. Have fun.
  5. nope. would never rig the micro-traxion to hold a fall for reasons already stated. even in the relatively low load situation of a crevasse fall. I do carry one on my glacier rack. they can make life significantly simpler in some situations.
  6. Some guides...

    GerritD sorry your experience was so negative. Not all guides feel a need to make independent climbers feel stepped on or disrespected. I'd say the majority don't. It's too bad that isn't the perception. That's something the profession needs to work on if CC.com and other message boards are any indication. Rainier specifically has a bit of a "history" as far as guiding culture goes. I think that is changing though. 'nuff said there. +1 to Mtguide's post above. From my standpoint, my job is to mitigate risk and ensure my client's well-being and positive experience while at the same time ensuring we don't put anyone else at risk. Hopefully I've always been respectful of those around me...but I know there HAVE been times when I've been stressed and focussed on my work ... to the point that I might have been curt with other parties. I try my best but I don't claim perfection. As a side note, I routinely see some "head scratchers" up on different mountains/routes. There is always a moment or two of reflection on whether or not I can do anything to improve the situation - specifically to make it safer for those involved. It can be difficult to not become a little jaded when you see so many incidents or potential incidents. Part of the job is responding to SAR requests when needed. Seeing a very unnecessary potential incident in the making can get a little ... annoying. But it comes with the territory. That's not to excuse the guide(s) in question in the posts above or intended as a critique of your own (GerritD) technique/skills. Just hopefully filling out the picture with some additional perspective. I regard what I do as my Profession. I'm absolutely stoked to do what I do and hope to do it for a long time. Part of that is acting as something of an ambassador to the rest of the climbing community. I take that role seriously. And I really like to have fun playing in the hills. Always stoked to see others doing the same. Cheers.
  7. Some guides...

    Jerks are lame and it sucks if you had to interact with any. But... there is always the possibility that there is more going on than meets the eye...