mthorman

Wow that is cool. Nice job!

So did the news get the location wrong or was there a fatality at Spontaneity Arete and Liberty Bell? http://www.heraldnet.com/article/20140908/NEWS03/140909256/Everett-climber-dies-in-fall-on-Liberty-Bell-Mountain

About 3 1/2 hrs from Spokane.

After seeing the above post I put Elizabeth Finger on my "go and see" list. Finally this last weekend I had time to drive over and see what it was all about. I convinced a friend of mine to come along, and we made the drive over. After seeing a few glimpses of it from the road we found a parking spot and started the bushwhack. After ascending 800 feet straight up through the brush and trees we reached the base of the East face of Elizabeth Finger. The rock is good quality and the steeper face sections are pretty clean. As a trad climber, I searched in vain for a beautiful crack or corner splitting the face. Instead I settled on a line that looked protectable with various horizontal cracks and short vertical corners. The climb, which we named "Liken' to Labor" Grade II 5.9 started out with a 150 foot pitch of sustained 5.8/5.9 climbing. It felt harder in places due to the amount of lichen and moss on the face and I spent quite a while cleaning holds. The belay was on a couple of small flat spots below a good horizontal crack. The 2nd pitch consisted mostly of friction climbing. The first 30 feet in the 5.7 range, then it backed off to 5.6 for most of the rest of the pitch. It was a rope stretcher with 60m ropes and ended at a nice tree in a wide "sloped gully". Pitch 3 was an easy 5.6 pitch starting with some blocky climbing and then back to smears and slabs. We belayed at a large block just above a prominent tree. Total length was only about 120 feet. From here there was an easy ramp that looked 4th class/low 5th going up to the right but we opted to stay on the main face. I picked a line going up and left following cracks for about 100 feet. Then transitioned to a ramp/ledge system that traversed back right towards the summit tower. It was mostly 5.7 climbing with a few moves of 5.8. We belayed at the bottom left side of the prominent summit tower. This pitch was also a rope stretcher at 200+ feet. Pitch 5 was a short 50 foot pitch following the left hand edge of the tower up to where it meets the ridge. From there we turned right to follow the ridge up to the summit. The climbing was mostly 5.8 but felt much harder as the rock was so covered in sand and lichen that the smearing was next to impossible. To descend we followed the summit ridge line north until there is a prominent gully that descends down the west side. At the bottom of this gully a short 60 foot rappel will land you back in the forrest. We opted to scramble down and around the north end the finger to get back to the base of the climb. You could also go down around the south end of Elizabeth finger. I am not sure which is easier but neither is a walk in the park. It was a fun adventure for sure. I don't know if I would climb the line again. There was no ultra cool crack and the whole route needs a good hard scrubbing to make it worthwhile. However the main face to the left of where we climbed looks very good! There are no cracks so natural pro is out of the question, but if somebody invested some time/money/energy they could put up some really sweet sport routes. The climbing looked much cleaner and would probably go in the 5.9/5.10a range or up depending on the line you picked. Most likely in the 4 pitche range for length too. Elizabeth Finger standing tall above the North Fork of Clearwater River. Our route we took up the east face, Liken' to Labor, 5.9. The circles are approximately our belay locations. The 5th pitch ascends directly above the 4th circle to the summit and is really out of view in this picture. Matt just above the crux of pitch 1 and almost to the belay. Looking down pitch 2, you can see Matt on the 5.6 slabs, the valley far below. Matt making the traverse on pitch 4. Arrival on the summit ridge at the top of pitch 5.

Sent you an email.

Do you not have any at all or did the ones you have brake? I just had to fix my BD Sabertooth Pro (pre 2009 model) because Black Diamond doesn't make the ABS plates for their earlier models anymore. I just drilled a couple holes in them and used really small zip ties to fasten them back to the crampon. Interesting note, when I called Black Diamond to inquire about buying the older model ABS they told me they didn't have any available. But the guy said to just take a piece of hard plastic and cut it down to size then fix it to the bottom of the crampon (he said cardboard covered in aluminum foil would work too). If I had to make entire new ones, I would use the plastic advice and then drill holes and fix it to the crampon with zip ties. Good luck and maybe someone else might be able to offer better suggestions.

Wow! What a great write up and pictures to go along. I really liked your perspectives and thoughts that you added with facts and details. Congrats on a great climb.

Awesome job guys!! Incredible how much unclimbed rock is still around.

Awesome TR! Thanks for sharing.

I have come under the ownership of a brand new Interagency Annual Pass (the normal National Park Annual Pass found here http://www.fs.fed.us/passespermits/annual.shtml). It is unsigned and good for 1 year (expires Aug of 2015). I already have an annual pass so I am looking to sell it. If you buy it online it is $80. I am looking for $60 OBO. Let me know if you are interested by reply or PM.

With the recent hot weather, there are going to be rocks coming down all over that mountain. Personally I would not climb it this time of year. As for other options look up Eldorado Peak. It is probably a little longer than Hood and has more elevation gain, but it is a great peak with a spectacular view of the North Cascades. Has some glaciers to cross and a steep hike at the beginning. There are several TRs on this webpage, and summitpost.org has a really good description as well.

Nice job guys! Looks like it was a very rewarding trip even if some moments weren't super enjoyable in themselves.

We saw 6 others groups, and I know at least 3 of them were in there to fish. So I guess if the numbers tell you anything than yes. We did see some smaller fish along the edge but didn't pay too much attention since we don't fish. And yes, you should get into the state highpoints. I will say I would rather go spend a week climbing in the North Cascades, but the highpoint thing does get you into some cool remote areas of the country. I have greatly enjoyed the 46 states I have done....well maybe all but the mid-west

Man I really need to get up into the Pickets. Thanks for sharing the TR and fantastics photos!

Yea I think most people call it the Southwest Couloir. I was using this website for research before the trip and he calls it the Southwest Ramp (http://climber.org/reports/2012/1809.html). He is calling the next gully over the Southwest Couloir (scroll down about half way to a large photo with routes drawn in). Not sure who is right but there are definitely 2 gullys/ramps/couloirs.

Trip: Granite Peak - Southwest Ramp Date: 7/30/2014 Trip Report: While doing some research on Granite Peak, I found a couple of notes about a route on the south face that was Class 3 the whole way. I hadn't heard much good about Frozen to Death Plateau, and wanting to go light the southwest ramp appealed because it would mean no climbing gear. The other appeal was the fact that the trailhead started at 8700 feet and much higher than any of the north approaches. My wife and I left the Lady of the Lake Trailhead near Cooke City, MT at 9:00am with packs around 25 lbs a piece. We followed trails all the way to Lone Elk Lake where the trail ended. From there we continued past Rough Lake and into the Sky Top drainage. Finally found a good spot to camp after 11 miles near one of the upper Sky Top lakes around 10,600 feet. The whole area is very scenic and there was plenty of water all along the way. Up and going the next morning by 6am. We continued up the valley over boulders to the base of Granite Peak. Started up by the "snow tongue" on the right side of the south face. We were able to easily climb around the snow on the rocks. Then traversed across the scree slope below the "slabs". Just after passing the "slab" we turned up into the first gully. I have heard this called the Southwest Couloir or Southwest Ramp. Technically I believe there are 2 gullys with 1 named the Couloir and the other named the Ramp. We took the first one which is on the left edge of the "slab". It was pretty easy scrambling and very straight forward navigation. There was even a fixed rope to use as a handline over one of the steeper sections. About half way up we encountered 40 degree snow. Being as it was still 8am in the morning the snow was actually very hard. My wife climbed it with a pair of crampons and ice ax while I found a Class 4 route around on the rock. Above the snow it was an easy Class 3 scramble up the gully to where it ended at the lip of the "Gash" (a large couloir that splits the face on the right side). From the edge of the "Gash" we turned left and continued up to the summit. After a brief time taking in the views we reversed our route back to camp. Then packed up our gear and headed out. On the return trip we decided to take the next drainage over by way of Upper and Lower Aero Lakes. It is a little shorter but more boulder hoping and more elevation gain to get out of Sky Top lakes. Overall I thought this approach and route was relatively easy and very enjoyable. Nothing super hard, and no need for climbing gear. If you are comfortable scrambling some Class 4 rock you don't even need crampons or ice ax. The scenery was great and camping spots at Sky Top lakes are nice too. Here is a link to a topo with our GPS track overlaid to show our route. http://caltopo.com/map?id=183I Our camp in the pre-dawn hours as we ate breakfast on summit day. An annotated view of the south face of Granite Peak showing the route. We ascended following the red line. Our descent was along the red line as well until we got to the bottom of the "Slabs" then we just headed straight down along the blue line down the scree gully. A view looking up the Southwest Ramp from the base near the "Slab". Looking down into the Sky Top Lakes basin. Our camp was in the center of the valley near the first small lake (first next to the larger lakes). Me on the top of Granite Peak. Another view of camp with Granite Peak in the background. Hiking up the hill to the pass into Upper Aero Lake. Snow was soft enough by this time to not need an ice ax, but hey if we brought them why not use them. Panorama of the beautiful Sky Top Lakes basin with Granite Peak in the distance on the left. A parting shot on the hike out. The Spires and Mount Villard tower above Aero Creek near Lower Aero lake. Gear Notes: Took crampons and ice ax. Could leave them if comfortable on Class 4 terrain. Other wise use them to keep the scrambling to Class 3. Approach Notes: Up through Lone Elk and Rough Lake, and out to Upper and Lower Aero Lakes. Lady of the Lake Trailhead near Cooke City, MT.

Great read, and awesome photography!!

It appears that most of the big fires are east and south of Winthrop. WA Pass is another 15 miles west of that. The weather forecast is for winds out of the west so my guess is that most of smoke will be moving towards the east (which is VERY apparent out my window in Spokane). I think you should be fine to climb on the pass. It is definitely far enough away to not worry about the fire itself, and hopefully with the winds you shouldn't have to worry too much about smoke.

Man it looks like you guys had an awesome trip! You climbed a bunch of really cool lines. Way to get after it!

I was a little surprised the lakes still were frozen over. But not having been up there in years past I didn't have anything to compare it to. Interesting to know there was more snow. I guess I didn't think we had a big snow year, although we did had a mild spring and cool start to the summer.

Wow great job! Looks like a really fun line in a less than popular location. Great scenery too!

Trip: Mount Triumph - NE Ridge Date: 7/8/2014 Trip Report: With a week off I was in search for partners for the North Cascades. Ryan contacted me about climbing Mount Triumph, and I was stoked. Monday I drove over from Spokane and we met up at the trailhead to sort gear. We really wanted to climb it car to car in one day but most guidebooks and TRs talked of 2 or even 3 days. In the end we decided to take a stove, supper, and down jacket so we could spend the night if we had to. We left the Thornton Lake trailhead at 4:50am just as it got light enough to move without a headlamp. The trail went by quickly and was snow free almost all the way up to the ridge top overlooking the lakes. Made the decent to the lake and found a way across the outlet. The cross country along the lake was easy on snow and we stopped for some water at the middle lake. The gully was also snow covered making for a quick and easy ascent compared to wet heather and scree. Reached the col about 9:30am and got our first good look at Mount Triumph and our route. Hiked across the bowl and scrambled up the rock to the notch. We racked up and decided to simul-climb as much as possible. I led out and we simuled all the way to the top of the 2nd step before the knife edge ridge in one block. By then I had run out of slings (we had 14) so I belayed Ryan up. The climbing was mostly 4th class with some low 5th class moves. The view of the Pickets was amazing, and the exposure was nice too. Ryan led out across the knife edge ridge and we simuled until the base of the crux offwidth. We switched again and I led out up the offwidth. It wasn’t too loose, took pro easily and was actually pretty enjoyable. Above it I put a tibloc on the rope to protect the 2nd and we simul-climbed all the way up to the summit. On the final class 4 heather slopes there was quite a bit of loose rock. Even with being very careful I somehow dislodged a big one that core shot our rope and Ryan took a small piece to the hip. Thankfully he was uninjured but it just reminded us to be extra careful. We made the summit just after 1pm in about 2 hours of climbing from the notch. We took a few minutes to take in the spectacular view and sign the summit registry. Then we started the descent. We only had 1 60m rope (now with a knot in it isolating the core shot) so we decided to do as few rappels as possible. We soloed all the way down to the rap anchor above the offwidth crux. From there we did 3 rappels and then Ryan led as we simul-climbed back across the knife edge section. We did 1 more rappel down the next step and then solo downclimbed for awhile. Finally near the notch we did 1 more rappel to bring us back to our packs. It took us 15 minutes longer to descend than to climb the route. We took a long break to rest, hydrate, and eat. There was still quite a bit of snow on the north side of the notch and I was able to refill my water bottle with snow melt. We left about 4:30pm and did another rappel to get to the top of a ramp. The ramp deposited us back on the snow slopes and then it was just a matter of reversing our tracks. The gully was just soft enough to get a good plunge step. Even the dreaded 500 foot uphill hike out of Thornton lakes went by quickly. Soon we were heading back down dry trail pounding out the steps back to the car. Just as the light was starting to fade we made it back at 8:50pm, 16 hours after we had left that morning. We found all the rap stations in good condition. According to the summit registry there aren’t very many people who climb Triumph. That is unfortunate because it is worth the effort. The climbing is technically easy but the exposure is good, and the views looking north into the Southern Pickets are outstanding. Looking down on Thornton Lakes with Mt. Triumph barely visible in the background. The route goes around the lake to the left and then up the obvious gully that is directly below Triumph. At the top of the gully with Triumph in the background. Excited about the short distance left before the climb. Ryan doing some scrambling on the way up to the notch in the NE Ridge. Looking up the NE Ridge of Triumph with Ryan on lead somewhere in the middle. A panorama of the North Cascades looking north from the summit of Triumph. Me at our first rap station with the southern Pickets in the background. The views were just incredible. Looking back across the basin below Triumph to the col at the top of the gully. Ryan starting to descend the gully on the way down to Thornton Lakes. Gear Notes: We took one 60m rope (8.4) and doubled it in half for simul-climbing. Took 14 slings, 1 set of nuts, and 7 cams (BD #.3 - #2 plus 1 smaller C3). Had to switch leads every time because we ran out of slings. Approach Notes: Snow on most of the approach after the trail which made for an easy walk. No bushwhacking right now. Nice to have crampons for the gully in the early morning.

Nice job guys and an impressive time. Did it 2 days after you guys with great weather and conditions as well. The snow bridge across the upper Bergshrund probably won't be around much longer. Did you guys use it (the one way out left) or did you find a different way?

Partner found.

I will be climbing in the North Cascades area for the next week. I have partners and routes lined up all week except for Tuesday and Wednesday. If anybody wants to get out and climb something let me know. I would be up for pretty much anything from the North Face of Shuksan, or the Torment-Forbidden Traverse to doing a few routes up on WA Pass. Happy to lead up to 5.9 alpine or follow a rope gun on something harder. Marlin