mthorman

Sent you a PM.

Very nice job guys! Love the pictures and route name!

Training plans are a good start. Right now I am roughly following one while training for an Ironman Triathlon. However I have found for me it was more beneficial to understand the basis behind training; HR zones, fatigue, recovery, diet, etc. I am in the middle of reading "Training for the new Alpinism" by Steve House and Scott Johnston. I would highly recommend this book. I have learned much more about pushing my body during training and how things work together. It is geared more for Alpine climbing and getting in shape for endurance activities. Now I mostly use the "Training Plans" to get ideas for workouts more than a checkbox for each day. If you are looking to improve more strength specifics like pushing rock grades then you might also check out "The Rock Warrior's Way" by Arno Ilgner. I found that I was able to increase my lead abilities by a number grade after applying his principles. It is about the mental side rather than the physical side of climbing. Last thing I will say is consistency. Whatever you pick stick with it. I have a hard time with this as life seems to always get in the way, but when I actually do stay consistent for awhile I can always see the benefits. Good luck in your training!

Nice job and great pictures! We climbed TC the same day and saw your guy's tracks entering the couloir on our way down. We were hoping you guys would put up a TR so we could see the conditions of the route.

I would be surprised if the road is open. The FS doesn't usually open it until much later and I doubt they will open it early even if it is snow free. Bottom line plan on the road walk and someday you might be pleasantly surprised. The road walk adds an extra 3.5 miles and 1200 ft of elevation gain. Good luck!

I am in the same boat. I think a lot of it just has to do with experience. Being able to route find quickly and then seeing placements for gear. I know I have spent way too much time fiddling around trying to figure out where to get a piece. I know for me with more time mixed climbing, I would also see tool placements quicker. Your times are pretty similar to mine. For instance, last spring I climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir in very winter like conditions. The West Ridge section was 5 pitches of mixed climbing, in the M3/M4 ish range. It took us 4 hours for the 5 pitches swinging leads. In comparison two weeks ago I climbed TC on Dragontail and did it in just over 4 hours from the lake to the summit (3K elevation gain). But we only pitched out 2 pitches, and other than that it was just steep snow soloing. I feel like my anchor building is fast, and my efficiency is good at switching leads. I just feel like I need to put in a ton more milage in the alpine and mixed terrain. Why do you feel like following is time consuming? Retrieving gear should be pretty easy unless it is a pin and even those don't take that long to get out.

I think doing this route as your first big alpine climb is very condition dependent. I climbed the route 2 weeks ago and it sounds like the conditions were the same. Which by the way is fat compared to last year. Last year there was a lot more rock and a lot less ice (at least in late March/early April). As others have said be very comfortable on steep snow. The route is several thousand feet long but really only the transitions between couloirs need protecting. The couloirs themselves can easily be soloed which saves a LOT of time. Many parties get bogged down and spend a long time on route dealing with protection. When I did it 2 weeks ago we spent the night at Colchuck lake, and we took bivy sacks to save on weight. I would recommend staying at the lake for your first time, particularly if this climb is going to push your limits. It helps to have a fresh start from the lake. Finally go with a partner who is at your level or better. That way if the steep ice runnels test your limits you can always swing leads. Lastly beware of the warmer weather as others have stated. I am not sure how much this warm trend/rain is affecting it, but it can't be good. However, this is definitely a classic route and worth the trip!

Wow....awesome route and great pictures! Congrats!

Wow...awesome photos! The lighting in the last photo makes the mountain look so impressive!

Nice job guys! Thanks for breaking trail from the lake up to the climb (we were the party of two that passed you guys in the first couloir). The crux runnels definitely seemed to be in nice fat conditions. And the weather was amazing! Here is a shot of you guys coming up the 1st couloir. And one more of the sunrise with my partner Ryan approaching our belay mid way up the ice runnels. You can see you guys at the base of the runnels in the background.

Awesome photos! Looks like the route is in fantastic condition.

Wow! Really nice job putting up the route.

I would love to go, but it is hard for me to justify the expense. If I am going to spend several thousands dollars to fly in and climb somewhere I would rather go into the Revelations or some other range in Alaska where I have either many route options or a single bigger objective (like the Cassin on Denali). Maybe someday, I'll have to see. Blodgett Canyon is awesome. I haven't climbed any of the rock routes in there yet, but did ice climb Blodgett falls last winter. It is definitely a cool valley with some awesome looking spires.

Awesome link up!

I don't mind taking newer people along. I am usually looking for partners in the summer, particularly those that can get out mid-week. It is a long way off for me to start planning trips, but once the summer rolls around in June, send me a PM or something and we can see about connecting for something. Good luck with your AAI course and keep reading!

1) Favorites I have climbed: - NE Buttress of Slesse - Stuart Glacier Coulior on Stuart - Curtis Ridge on Rainier - Complete Exum on Teton - East Buttress of Whitney 2) Capable of, but have not climbed and want to: - Complete North Ridge of Stuart - North Face of Shuksan - North Face of Mt. Robson - Liberty crack on Liberty Bell - RNF of Half Dome 3) Admire but will never climb. - Lotus Flower Tower - Hummingbird Ridge on Mt. Logan - Annapurna

Pretty cool that permission to do this finally came through. Awesome job Will and Sarah! Video by Red Bull New Article http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2015/01/150129-niagara-falls-ice-climb-first-ascent-red-bull-canada-gadd/?utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=Social&utm_content=link_fb20150129news-niagarafalls&utm_campaign=Content&sf7182020=1

Peter I was just going to email you about some ice climbing this year. I am heading to Hyalite Feb 11 to 17th. Sounds like our schedules aren't going to match this year. Hope you find a partner and get some good ice climbing. FYI for anyone else reading this, Peter is a great guy and willing to climb ice even if it is -20F...brrr that was a cold day!!

I had a fun filled 2014. Here are some of the bigger highlights March - Mount Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir May - Mount Hood - South Side June - Mount Rainier - Liberty Ridge June - Mount Rainier - Disappointment Cleaver June - Mount Rainier - Curtis Ridge July - Mount Triumph - Northeast Ridge July - Mount Baker - North Ridge July - Liberty Bell - Beckey Route July - Le Petit Cheval - Spontaneity Arete July - Grand Teton - Complete Exum Ridge July - Granite Peak - Southwest Ramp August - Mount Baker - Boulder Cleaver/Glacier September - Mount Slesse - Northeast Buttress Looking forward to another great year of 2015!

If you really want to sell these you might reconsider your price. I am not in the market for ice screws myself, but other people who are shopping around are going to find prices like the link below. Just trying to help you out. http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3659367&cp=3677347.11360116.3688337

Make sure you get some good beta on current snow conditions. I climbed it last Christmas and there was no skiing. It was hard all the way and you definitely needed crampons. The normal summer trailhead is closed but there is a snow park area for winter use. Pretty easy trail to follow until you get above tree line. From there just go wherever you want. Make sure you check avalanche conditions too and know what to look for while on the mountain. If there has been a lot of recent snow and wind the ridge up top can be pretty corniced too. Well that is about all got, just go have fun on a good weather day with good snow and low avy danger!

I have used these boots for a couple of seasons in the North Cascades. They are Size 43.5 or USA Men's 9.5. They work great and still have lots of life left on them. Warm, sturdy double boots, great for glacier climbs. I am selling them because I upgraded to a La Sportiva Nepal boot (which is lighter and climbs technical ice and mixed routes better). Retails for $385. Asking $175 shipping to lower 48 included.

Yes I should have clarified that normal wear and tear is out. Doesn't mean too much to gear other than the rope.

Good advice from everyone. One other thing that helps sometimes is to talk about it first. I have had partners tell me before the trip that they want to split the cost if anything is damaged, missing, or broken regardless of fault or situation. Makes replacement of things real easy and no awkward moments if something does happen.

There definitely are glaciers and crevasses in the North Cascades but not much on WA pass itself. You might find something no the north side of Silver Star? If you keep driving west there are plenty that you can hike from the North Cascades Hwy. Probably be a 4 ½ hr drive to begin your hike. Other places to look would be the Stuart Range. There are a few glaciers tucked in that range which is a little closer drive to Spokane 3 ½ hr drive. Nothing near the road but the area is beautiful. If you really want crevasses though I would just go to Rainier. It is only a little over a 4 hour drive to the White River side and there are plenty of glaciers up there. If you want to see specific locations of glaciers in the North Cascade range I would recommend looking at Caltopo.com Really good topo maps that have glaciers marked of them too. Good luck!