Kameron

Climbed yesterday up the Park headwall (good conditions for climbing & skiing). There is a boot track from a previous party that finished up the glacier. The glaciers seem to be in fine shape for July. The scramble fixed rope onto the ridge was coreshot and now has two knots tied in it. Ideally, come prepared with your own ropes to rappel the ~25 m step, or be prepared to pass the knots on the way down.

Instant classic TR... whoah!

Good climbing and skiing conditions on Cooper Spur a week ago today. See this post for photos: https://turns-all-year.com/trip-reports/mt-hood-east-side

It seems to be getting a nice revival of activity @JasonG. Of course, spring & early summer is peak TAY season!

Really cool! I was hoping to ski that one this year but it'll have to wait. Seems like with skis it could be worth traversing in from Muir. Maybe. Awesome work and very useful report, thank you

Snowfield pictured in this report https://turns-all-year.com/trip-reports/march-15-17-chiwaukum-traverse

I skied down that snowfield in very wind-blasted snow conditions. Steep but not insane!

Should be fine. A few years ago when I last did it, there were crevasses to weave around in a few spots, but shouldn't be difficult. The Roman wall has some crevasses mid-slope that can be intimidating by July. You should be able to weave around them or, barring that, traverse westward and climb on the section of the headwall above the Deming. Bring & use a rope, of course, and you'll be fine. Have fun!

That's cool. I skied S Sister from the Clark side last week and enjoyed looking over the Prouty headwall and wondering about the skiing potential. It has that roll-over effect up there. Looks like some nice steep skiing.

ACR ResQLink Personal locator beacon. Basically a satellite "oh shit" button. In good condition, has sat in the bottom of my pack and only been tested. The battery needs replacement, but there are local shops that can do that for you (Fusion Marine and Marine Safety Services Seattle). This costs $150 + tax through MSS. You can also purchase a battery online for $40 and do the repair yourself. I upgraded to an inReach and no longer need it. You can re-register it with NOAA in your name. Originally purchased at REI, costs $300 new Asking price: $50, saving you at least $100 over a new device. Email kamdh@uw.edu for fastest response

I don't mind a little ski conditions update even if it's mundane

Looks decent, although with all the fresh snow you will have wintry conditions without much/any consolidation. And probably no track in the route. https://a.atmos.washington.edu/data/rainier_report.html

Bump! Nobody going ski mountaineering!?

sold!

I could see it from the CD on Monday 6/1. The lower Coleman looked okay and had a bootpack in it. Not very easy to see in the photo, but I'll include it anyway. Good skiing conditions on the CD that day.

Yeah, Rainier summit climbing is supposed to reopen June 19: http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/ FYI, it's still ski season on the volcanoes, so be aware that there will be a ton of snow. If you're a backcountry skier, I'd recommend bringing your sticks!

Looks like probably a good ski route with the right snow

Lowered the price

Looks like a fun & cruisy climb of a monstrous mountain! Thanks for sharing

What about access to the Wyeast via Mt Hood Meadows?

Movement SkiAlpi 24L pack $60 Skimo style pack. Light and fast. Has a lot of features: diagonal carry with race carry system (fits wider skis than most skimo packs), small valuables pouch, tether attachment, ice axe carry. Velcro accessed crampon pouch, which I mostly used as a stuff area for a puffy. In good condition. In Fremont, email kamdh@uw.edu

Mammut Spindrift Guide 45L backpack asking $60 A ski mountaineering specific pack. Good size for overnights and longer, or can be stripped down for technical day trips. Easily carries camping, glacier, and snow safety gear. Probably closer to 60L when fully stuffed but carries okay when less than full. Features: removable metal frame (can replace with a foam pad for lighter weight and more versatility), shovel/probe pouch, side zip access, zippered hip pouch, gear loops, rope carrier strap, side compression straps. Clip ice tool carry works with modern tools and allows easy access while wearing the pack. Carries skis in a-frame and diagonal configurations. Probably could carry a splitboard, but I'm not sure. Modifications: added a bungee crampon carrier, cut off the brain so that it can be optionally removed. It's a nice pack that I've taken up a bunch of peaks. In fair condition. Some stitching is getting loose in non-critical areas but could be repaired. Email kamdh@uw.edu for fastest response. I'm in Fremont, Seattle.

Kayland mountaineering boots size 13/Euro 47 (I think, but the tag has worn off) asking $80 I'm not sure the exact model, but I think they are an older version of the apex rock: https://www.kayland.com/en/shop-en/mountaineering/apex-rock-gtx-black-lime.html These are a nice weight boot for volcanoes and other snowy Cascade peaks in Spring-Summer-Fall conditions. Work well with semi-automatic crampons (heel clip) or straps, but no toe welt for fully automatic crampons. There is a waterproof e-Vent membrane that still works. They are in good shape and were resoled once. For whatever reason, my feet have gotten bigger, even though I'm in my 30s, and they no longer fit. I can't deal with tight boots any more. Available for pickup in Fremont neighborhood of Seattle or possibly elsewhere in the greater area. Email kamdh@uw.edu for fastest response. Thanks

Interested in the snow saw and rescue sled. PM me here or email kamdh@uw.edu In Seattle in case you are nearby

Cool to see a report from this zone. I know the Coleman headwall has been skied a few times in the past handful of years. I think it was 2 years ago that Erin Smart and two French friends of hers skied it. Conditions looked terrible from the media I saw, however. I'm not sure the last time it's been "good" to ski, but I think it does get skied by the mystical doesn't-post-on-the-Internet crowd semi-regularly. Also, my guess is March is early in the season for good ski conditions. You want the warm spring storms to come through and plaster those upper elevations then wait for warm weather and hope for corn. It's one of the lines I'd like to ski some time if/when the conditions of the glaciers come back into shape. I don't want to have to air crevasses on a 50 degree slope. It seems like the bergschrund on the bottom of the Park headwall has gotten worse in recent years, too.