jakedouglas
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Posts posted by jakedouglas
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Looking to do a long weekend or similar in Hyalite sometime during January to learn the basics on ice. Have followed Chair NF, done some random top roping, and a couple very short/easy leads on Coleman seracs. Probably looking to start on WI2 and figure it out from there.
Safe and conservative. AIARE 1. Have more experience on rock. Looking for someone who is not brand new to climbing but is similarly new to ice. I have ropes, 5 screws, winter vehicle. Driving from North Bend. Be fit to make the most of the trip. Maybe meet up beforehand to get a feel for each other. Could bring skis in case we need a rest day.
jakecdouglas at gmail
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Price drop $250
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There are a number of threads that cover this question thoroughly if you search for them.
I wouldn't bother with Chainsaw Wall unless you're going up there to climb other bolted routes already. Long hike, short route, and I believe there were a few questionable blocks of substantial size. You could probably be in the Icicle by the time you were leading off at the base of it.
The Little Si stuff (Repo I mostly) is worth doing though if you don't have time to drive far.
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Red, size regular.
Aside from a touch of dirt this pack is brand new. It has been out one single time. Loaded it up with my gear and walked up a forest road and back. Unfortunately it does not fit me, a problem I seem to have with most Arcteryx packs. Bummed because this pack is perfect for overnight ski touring or ski mountaineering and no one else makes something quite like it with such large capacity (holds 60L with expansion collar).
$275 OBO
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Arrived to find the road gated. Hiked up the road in steady rain and hung out for a long time under the toilet building roof at the TH waiting for the rain to pass. Eventually started up the trail and it started raining steadily again so we headed down.
It seemed like more precipitation than I had expected from the forecast and we could only imagine that there would be a lot of new snow up high. Another party started up the road as we were packing up the car. Best of luck to them.
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FWIW, we canceled our motel room and stayed home. Without anyone local telling us otherwise, our interpretation of the forecast was too uncertain to gamble on such a long drive and taking time off of work.
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We have plans to head to Hyalite tomorrow through Monday, but the Bozeman forecast has a fair amount of rain and snow. Should we show up and hope we're able to get some climbing done, or save the trip for another time?
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North Bend is closer to Snoqualmie Pass and Leavenworth than Issaquah but further from the city and has fewer jobs, stores and amenities. It has a small community of trail runners, climbers and skiers, but not many people who do more than one of those. Issaquah has plenty of high quality trails, but I personally think the trails further east are a little more interesting.
It really just depends on how much you want to live in the city vs. a smaller town and whether you are going to be commuting to a job. I moved to North Bend from Seattle a year ago and I love it, but it doesn't work for everyone.
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Many of the people on this sight don't remember what a beginner route is.
Pretty much. I think a good indicator for snow climbs that a beginner could figure out without someone else leading is whether the route gets skied on a regular basis. The easiest one on Lane Peak and the Colchuck NBC probably fit the bill.
If you find yourself in over your head with what people are recommending, make something up. Walk around, find a gully that looks like the right angle for you, climb it.
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Patagonia Super Alpine Bibs, mens large grey. $200. Excellent condition, just a few nicks on the scuff guard.
OR Alti Mitts large red/black. $100 excellent condition
Black Diamond Quadrant 2013 size 29.5 $100 Probably have about 20 days of use. First ski boot I bought and I sized it too big.
Outdoor Research Crocodile gaiter. Red/black XL. $15 One puncture on either side just above the cordura, one about 1 inch and the other about 1/2 inch.
Suunto Core altimeter watch Lava Red $100 A few tiny paint scratches on the outer ring. Screen is fine though.
Located in North Bend.
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Curious why you are selling the bag. Been thinking of getting one next spring. Does the theory not work out well in practice?
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There are a few new synthetic insulated jackets on the market this year marketing exceptional breathability, notably the OR Superlayer and the Patagonia Nano Air.
Breathable insulation is not new. We are used to this idea in the form of a fleece, such as the R1. It does breathe fairly well, but the caveat is typically that a shell must be added when stopped, or the substantial air permeability allows the heat to be sucked out by the wind.
The claims seem too good to be true:
Put it on, leave it on. From trailhead to summit and back, the Nano-Air™ Hoody sets a new standard for technical insulation, merging the comfort and breathability of open fleece with the protection and warmth of a puffy.This jacket's construction dumps excess heat when you're on the move, but holds in the heat during downtime.How can this be? Isn't it inherent that more air permeability will result in more heat loss? Can't I obtain similar results by poking holes in my current jackets?
Does anyone have experience with these pieces?
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I read the whole thing yesterday. Very cool.
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Nice job. The flake is a bit grim as you are looking at a substantially long fall onto the deck if you whiff it. I disagree that the easiest way up it is harder than 5.4 though, and I have even seen it referred to as being 4th class. I think it feels more intimidating but the few real moves earlier in the climb are actually more difficult. Maybe you took a harder variation.
Your first pitch is commonly done as 2 pitches. You can do this route in as many or as few pitches as you want, but I prefer to do it in 4 simply to reduce drag and maintain communication. You can also bring less hardware that way.
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Awesome climb, congratulations.
I was a little surprised to see the #4 and #5 cams on your rack, as they tend to be left behind by many climbers unless they are known to be necessary for a route. Can I ask what prompted you to take them, and did they end up being useful?
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I've also heard there is at least one section (Robo wall) at X32 which is a good crack to practice placements. I think it's only one or two routes at a low grade, but might be a great place for follow up.
It's "Repo I". Worth an afternoon (just one, no more) after work to mess around for a couple hours.
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In the Icicle, these are all good places:
Playground Point
Mountaineers Dome
Roto Wall
XY Cracks
R&D for multipitch
The difficulty of the climbing may be laughable for your friend, but they are all good areas for placing gear and are close together so you can get in many hours of practice in a day.
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Pretty hard to argue with that, especially on steeper/more sustained terrain like Rainier.
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It's clear that not many people are dragging their beacon/shovel/probe up Rainier by late June or July, but my observation has been that wet slides are still not super uncommon, at least on steep aspects, by that time.
~3 pounds is a lot. What's your criteria for bringing it vs. leaving it at home?
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Like new. Been in my pack about 10 times, worn only once or twice.
$100 you pick up in North Bend.
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There are people who do this for a living.
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Who got to sleep in the tent?
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Well there you have it.
FS: HMG Summit Pack
in The Yard Sale
Posted
Just like the one on their website except it has a 150D bottom for additional durability and taped seams.
https://www.hyperlitemountaingear.com/ultralight-packs/1800-series-ultralight-pack/summit-pack.html
Pack weighs 368g on my scale. Great condition, only seen light duty a handful of times. I paid $190, a bit extra for the burlier bottom material.
$120, you pick up in North Bend.