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dave schultz
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Posts posted by dave schultz
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Howdy PNW Climbers and Skiers!
I was a regular posted back in 2017-2019 when I lived in Everett, but have been in Japan for two years and now in San Diego for about a year. I have a quick road trip window and it looks like I've narrowed down a Ruby Mountain window from 18-20 March (could maybe stay to 21 Mar). 18th looks great, 19th looks like a high wind day, 20th looks great, 21st looks iffy. If you want to meet up there, please let me know, or if you know anyone in the area or around who might be willing to link up.
Thanks!Dave
239-two-three-three-2oo2
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17 hours ago, Juan Sharp said:
We had the route to ourselves and so were somewhat surprised to see so many people (and dogs) on top.
Congrats on ticking this route - I found it to be very enjoyable a perfect length for a full-value big-day out in the mountains.
I'm curious about the dog comment ... any pics? Legalities of bringing dogs up there? Thanks!
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If you're willing to ship to APO/AP i'll take them.
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This is a sick pack for PNW. Someone buy this before I do as a spare ...
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Last call for items, packers pack everything this week.
Add:
Neo air xtherm regular length NWT. $100
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also look at montbell. i use theur 30 degree throughout the winter, but have a nunatack quilt for shoulders and summer.
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BD C3 #1. $25
Oakley Splice Goggles with clear, yellow, and two blends of dark lenses. The frame is a little manky but still works, a little TLC could bring it back to full health. $40
Oakley A- Frame Women's Goggles with dark and yellow lenses. Nothing wrong at all. $20
75m 6mm tag line. Bag included. $30
30cm Brooks Range saw, folds down to probably 22cm, includes a sweet sleeve. No longer available from Brooks Range. $20
Platypus over-the-shoulder bladder holder. Great for cold weather to keep the bladder close to the body heat to stay liquid. $5 each, both for $7
LaSpo racing top size XL, I'm a medium build 6'0" and it fits well. Really comfy if you're moving fast. $20
Marmot Optima Hardshell. Gor-Tex Paclite Shell. Men's Size M. Great pant, I just don't use a hardshell for anything anymore. $40
Marmot PreClip Rain Pains. Women's Size M. Nothing wrong, just not a good fit. $35
Camel Back bladder with insulated tube. Small hole repaired with tape. $3
Osprey Raptor 18. Barely used. Too many packs. $25
Osprey Verve 7. Barely used. Too many packs. $10
Black Diamond Bullet 18. WELL used. Too many packs. $5
Black Diamond Axis 33. AWESOME pack, just WAY bigger than I ever use. Too many packs. $35Camel Back tiny pack only carries a bladder and some small items. Too many packs. $5
Osprey Bladder. Included with the first pack sold, or separate for $5
MSR water filter. Circa 2009, I just don't treat my water anymore … $5
Rab Alpine Generator Synthetic Puffy. Size L. Used but in great condition. $50 (spoken for, but not yet paid)TNF Cat's Meow 20-degree Synthetic Sleeping Bag. Heavily used while on a ship. $10
EMS negative 20-degree Synthetic Sleeping Bag. Barely used. $50
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BUMP and added:
- Magnavox VHS to DVD burning unit. $20
- Yamaha stereo receiver. $25
- Sharper image headphone, we had trouble making them work. Someone else might have better luck. $2
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Bose surround sound speakers (at least 5 speakers, may have a sixth in the box) with subwoofer. We've used in every house since 2009 and are just getting too lazy to move it around again. All the boxes, wires, etc. still with it, nothing wrong, REALLY GOOD SET UP. $50 - Kurig, not sure the model. $15
- Mulit-Cooker (rice, slow cooker, deep fryer, steamer). Bought YEARS ago and never used. $25
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Kitchen Aid deluxe mixer. $25 - Bread maker. $25
- Small slow cooker / crock pot. $10
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Japanese soup bowl set with box. $10 -
Japanese sushi set with box. $10 - Fancy Shun Steak Knife set with box. $50
- Health food books / random recipe books. $5, $4, $3, $2, $1 each (like above).
- NWAC thermos. $2
- 2 x AAC 16 oz glasses. $2 each
- 3 lunch boxes. $2 each
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Consolidated listing. Willing to make deals to move stuff.
239-two-three-three-2002
daveschultz125(at)gmail(dot)com
Screamers. $5 each, $20 for all. All about 6 years old.Chess Set. $52012 Garmin 450T. Worked great until it didn’t. Someone smarter or with more time might be able to give life back to this thing. $10.
BMW Z4 sun shade. Probably fit any small sports car. Free with any other purchase, just don’t want to throw away.
Insulated thermos and cup. $5
Stanley vacuum thermos. 1.1 liter. $5 (spoken for, but not yet paid)Coleman sleeping bag. Used for 5 nights. $5
Nordic Track Bike. Bought in 2014, not used much. $25
Salomon Rockette 164cm 128-108-121. Bought cheap, looking to move on. Lots of quiver killer holes, best to see in person to verify binding fit. $25
Acetone, Ice Melt, Rain-X. Free with any other purchase.
20# propane and Mr Buddy Heater. $25 (SPOKEN FOR, NOT PAID OR PICKED UP)
Steel Toe work boots. Size 13. Just don’t quite fit me, probably closer to 12 or 12.5. $15
LaSpo Trango womens size 42. Good shape, just old. $25
LaSpo Trango mens 47. Moderate shape, probably best out of the snow. $15
LaSpo Hiking boots. Mens 47. Perfect shape. $40
Scarpa Hiking boots. Womens 41.5 / 9.5. Perfect shape. $40
7TM Power Tour set up. 2 sets, ski crampons, lots of extra parts. $50
Ski Iron. $5
OR Lodester. Size L. Rumored to the one the warmest technical climbing gloves. Didn’t fit my hands well enough to use. $25 (SPOKEN FOR, NOT PAID OR PICKED UP)
Go Pro Package. Hero Origianal, Hero 2, lots of accessories. $25K4 Cell Phone. Bought in Canada when my phone broke. Someone with more time can probably figure out how to make it work. $20
BD Cams 0.5-6. $450. Not looking to split. Only reason I am selling is to reduce volume for Japan. I would whip on any one of these cams.
40m 8.7mm Mammut Serenity triple rated rope. $60. Trimmed from a longer rope, used for alpine, a few more years left. Photos available upon request.
50m 8.7mm Mammut Serenity triple rated rope. $75. Trimmed from a longer rope, used for alpine, a few more years left. Photos available upon request.
70m 9.2mm Sterling Areo bi-pattern single rated rope. $110. Bought in 2015, used for cragging, definitely taken falls. A few more years left. Photos available upon request.Vintage Cross Country Ski Set (skis and poles), circa 1960s or 1970s. Call to discuss.
BD Purgatory skis, not work skiing, free with any other purchase.
Digital Cameras:
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2015 Sony Alpha 6000 with 16-50 lens. Still works, but is degraded: zoom does not work (well), semi-unreliable. If I had more time I would have sent in to be repaired, but I ran out of time and priorities. Probably an easy turn around for someone. $75 - 2011 Nikon D3100. No (known) problems at all. Not in a long time. 55-200 and 18-55 lenses. $125. Chest harness camera bag included.
- Small tripod. $10
- Big tripod. $15
- Chest harness camera bag. $20
Randoms Books ($5 for 1; $9 for 2; $12 for 3; $15 for 4; $17 for 5; $1 each for 6 or more):
- Climbing from Gym to Crag
- The Mountaineering Handbook
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A Complete Guide to Ski Touring and Ski Mountaineering - Gym Climbing Maximizing your Indoor Experience
- Wilderness Medicine, Beyond First Aid
- Allen & Mikes Really Cool Telemark Tips
- Everest: The West Ridge (3rd revision)
- Off the Wall: Death in Yosemite
- K2: The Savage Mountain
- Bear Books x 5
- The Rock Climbing Guide to Europe
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Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian Rockies 3rd Edition, by Joe Jo. $50
East Coast Guide Books:
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Seneca (2nd Edition) - Selected Climbs in North Carolina
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Rock Climbing (VA, WV, MD) - ADK Rock
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Secrets of the Notch -
The Climber’s Guide to North America: East Coast Rock Climbs -
Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire -
The Gunks Guide (Todd Swain) -
Selected Climbs in the Northeast -
Best Backcountry Skiing in the Northeast -
Rock Climbing: New England
Middle USA:
- RMNP: The High Peaks
- Rock Climbing: Colorado
- Longs Peak: It’s Story and a Climbing Guide
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Rock Climbing: Utah -
Rock Climbing: Desert Rock IV -
Classic Rock Climbs: Red Rocks - Joshua Tree
- Rock Climbing: Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks
- Best Climbs: Joshua Tree National Park
- The Trad Guide to Joshua Tree
PNW:
- Rock Climbing: Smith Rock State Park
- Rock Climbing: Washington
- Best Climbs: Cascade Volcanoes
- 100 Best Cross Country Ski Trails in Washington
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100 Classic Backcountry Ki and Snowboard Routes in Washington -
Olympic Mountains: A Climbing Guide -
Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide -
Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide -
Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume I -
Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume II
Military Books:
- Horse Soldiers
- On Killing: The Psychological Cost of Learning to Kill in War and Society
- Where Men Win Glory: The Odyssey of Pat Tillman
- The Longest Winter
- The Last Stand of the Tin Can Soldiers
- Seal Team Six
- Six Frigates
- Fatal Voyage
- Destroyer Battles
- The Final Storm
- Abandon Ship: The Saga of the USS Indianapolis, the Navy’s Greatest Sea Disaster
- Ship of Ghosts: The Story of the USS Houston, FDR’s Legendary Lost Cruiser and the Epic Saga of Her Survivors
- Japanese Destroyer Captain
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Bump and updated.
Adding:
20# propane tank.
Mr Buddy Heater
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BUMP and updated for sold items. If you're looking for something different or specific, let me know and I might / probably have it and could possibly be willing to part with it to avoid brining it to Japan.
Thanks to the folks who confirmed their orders and came in person!
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also posted in Everett CL
https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/d/everett-4xsprinter-turn-key-price-drop/6802496087.html
I bought the van from a Denver CL in 2017, while living in Everett.
both Denver and Everett have been running in parallel. Do you have another recommendation?
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Updated for sold items. Lot's of interest in stuff, I'd like to hold for confirmed buyers, but can't hold for people just interested.
Thanks!
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Weather looks less-than-ideal for skiing, so I'm looking for a climbing partner for the weekend:
Open to anything, but eyes on something relatively big with favorable weather, albiet a little windy.
Stuff in Enchantments, Baker, Shuksan, Hood, Index (?), Pearly Gates (?), Snoqualmie Pass area (NY Gulley, Tooth, Chair, what else?) ….
Glacier Peak, in a mega overnight sat-sun trip …. it's probably possible ...
I'd prefer to travel on skis, and request the same. If you've got to boot, we can probably make it work depending on the objective.
Prefer C2C, but not opposed to an overnight ….
Also wiling to go on a big MTB ride … that ride that no one else wants to do ….
Thanks,
Dave
239-two-three-three-2002
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Cross posting. As a PNW local this van was built for the weekend warrior of the PNW.
Happy to meet and demo, CL should cover the details, but feel free to ask anything you want.
Thanks! -
Bumping and adding:
2 x 7TM Power Tour Bindings, ski crampons, and spare parts. PM to discuss price as there is SOO much included; this is a GREAT tele touring option.
Tele Tech Heel Piece. $35. You need your own ability to mount the toe piece, but any tech binding works. No problems, just no interested in tele anymore.Life Link plastic shovel. $5Life Link ski poles (two pole set). $20. No problems, just don't need them anymore.Scarpa T2 Tele Boots 30.5. $35Scapa Defender Tele Tech Boots 30.0 / 30.5. $35Some Big Bros. Can't remember which ones, two total. I've got some Valley Giants so I don't need these guys anymore. Priced to move, make me an offer.Sterling hollow block x 2. Make me an offer, I don't use them because I like the old fashioned cord better.Misc small cordage, lot's of length, priced to move as I don't want to bring it with me.Salomon Rockette Skis. 164cm x 110mm. Bought cheap and never used. $50 priced to move.
Nordic Track bike. Electric, plugs into wall. Works. Don't want to bring to Japan. $50.
Single Set of BD cams 0.5 - 6. NOT LOOKING TO SELL SEPERATELY. $450
Bikes. I'm trying to figure out what I want to do with my bike situation.
2015 Salsa Spearfish Carbon. $2000. 100mm front and 80mm rear - perfect XC and I've done a lot of the bigger, longer trails in the PNW. Front and rear shocks recently fully serviced (LIKE NEW). Converted to tubeless with new tires. Custom frame pack. Testing the waters to see if I can recoup enough to get a bigger travel 29er.
2017 Salsa Warbird Carbon Brooks LE. $2000. Great all-condition commuter and cross bike. Tubless, frame pack and seat pack. Just don't ride enough and I think I can get away commuting with a longer travel full suspension bike than the Spearfish while in Japan.
I'd rather dump both bikes and get a SICK fast endure bike.
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Thursday bump
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surprise weekend available from work. might have Monday off too.
obviously want to get something big. c2c or overnight, both are fine.
temps look good, wind looks manageable up high.
I've got some ideas, and definitely open for yours.
game for rock, alpine, skiing, or MTB.
thanks!
dave
239-two-three-three-2002
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I quiver killer all my skis.
they're a stronger attachment, but also make it dangerously easy to add skis and/or bindings to the stable.
example: dps skis with g3 touring or kingpin resort bindings. same or different boots.
original plan was to balance tech and tele. tele is all but out, but getting the right tech binding is nice.
adding skis now only costs the off-season discount and no need for more than one binding; and I always have the best ski for the conditions.
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Books
Going to Japan and don't want to take 20 lbs of books with me ....
Mostly looking to avoid throwing them away. If you'd like them to donate to an organization, or know of an organization that would take them, let me know and I'll let these go for no cost. Sale price is only to justify my time to move them, to avoid just throwing them away.
Thanks!
5 x bear books about attacks, history, etc. $2 each of all for $5.
Collection of Mountaineers Books $3 each:
free heel skiingGym Climbing
Climbing (training for peak performance)
Climbing (from gym to crag)
General, all-purpose books, $3 each
The Mountaineering Handbook
Complete Guide to Ski Touring and Ski Mountaineering
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Added:
Arcteryx Silo 40 Ski Pack. $60. Awesome big ski touring pack, I just don't have a need for it anymore.Men's Large Mountain Hardware lightweight down jacket, no hood. OLD. $15Men's Large Arcteryx Venta softshell jacket. Awesome jacket, just too heavy for me and I don't really ski at the resort. Excellent condition. $75Mont-bell Ultra Light Super Spiral Down Hugger #3 (30-degree). Well used, still in great shape. Looking to sell and upgrade to their newer 900 fill version. $200Mont-bell Ultra Light Super Spiral Down Hugger #1 (15 degree). Less than 10 nights, excellent shape. Same deal as above, $350.Mont-bell Ultra Light Down Hugger #5 (50 degree). Well used, good shape. I've switched to half bags and quilts for summer, no need for this bag. $50.
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Various BD ice turbo express ice screws (all have a knob), 13, 16, 19cm. SOLD.Totem Cams, Blue to Orange. WELL used, definitely fallen on. SOLD.2016 Mammut 8.7mm single/double/twin. 40m @ $60. 50m @ $75.
60m @ $90.70m @ $105. ONLY reason I am selling is to try and reduce my rope quiver due to moving to Japan.2012 Sterling Nano 7.8 twins. 60m, both for $50. Definitely near the end of their life based on age, but they have been well cared for and only used in winter or long, steep rock routes requiring many rappels. I would / will continue to personally use for another winter and next summer to give you an idea on how much life I think they have left.200 foot static 9mm haul rope. never been used. $75.26.5 shell / 26.0 liner Dynafit GAIA boot. never been punched. four buckle. Bought for wife, didn't fit. Trying to get rid of these. $10.2009 Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet, blue, moderate use - $20
2014 Arcteryx B360 Harness with middle gear loop removed, used, a year of heavy use, a few of light use left. - $35
LOTS of retired rope of various lengths, dog leashes, training stuff, rugs, etc. - $0.20 per footATC x 1, good shape - $5
2009 Black Diamond Womens Harness, a year or two or light/moderate use left (only due to age), looks new and was never heavily used - $10
Pair of android leashes for current gen BD Cobra or previous gen Viper (may work with current gen Viper, but I cannot confirm) - $10 each ($15 for the pair)
2012 DPS Lotus 120 hybrid 190cm ski, drilled with several quiver killers. Probably best to meet in person to make sure your bindings will fit. Size 13/30.5 boot. $100Women's Medium Helly Hansen Ski Pants (white) (wife's, they are in good shape, we're just going in a different direction with her pants). $252012 Marmot Women's Medium PRECIP full side zip hardshell pants. Excellent shape, just going a different direction.
Pics available upon request.
Moving to Japan and need to thin the closet. Will probably continue adding to this list.
Deals made to move this stuff to a home that will use it.
Located in Everett, easily get around the general area from Seattle to Bellingham.
Thanks!
Dave
239-two-three-three-2002
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Something can really be said for the right tool for the conditions, and the comfort / speed added in semi- or fully-technical terrain vs. the speed lost in non-technical by carrying two tools AND a non-technical long axe.
Sure you can climb North Ridge or Coleman Headwall on Baker w/o two technical tools, but you'll be a lot slower through the technical terrain, and may struggle to even make it up. This could significantly lower the overall safety of the party.
I have never regretted carrying two technical tools, even when not truly needed because of the speed and security added when I did need them, even for a short time. A fully functional, non-technical axe also makes travel through the remainder of the terrain safe and fast without needing to utilize a tool where it does not belong. Are you any slower carrying three tools/axes - not really; do you ensure you have the right tool for the job, ensuring confidence and speed and therefore safety - yes.
North Ridge, Liberty Ridge, Coleman Headwall (some examples above) - I would whole-heartedly recommend two tools and an axe, you never know what you might have to climb through. I have not done Leutholds or DKH, so cannot comment at all (except Leutholds is a relatively benign ski descent, I think ...).
I am not advocating two tools on everything, but simply giving another perspective that has worked well for me.
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Trip: Johannesburg - NE Rib 1957
Trip Date: 13-14 October 2018
Trip Report:started 715 Sat AM from the parking lot.
took the lowest start posible, scrambling a few hundred feet before a 100m roped pitch into the trees.
lots of unroped climbing before realizing we were too far right. we did another roped pitch thinking we'd be out - wrong. a single 30m rappel down and skiers right put us back in business.
a long stretch of unroped climbing into a gullet. roped back up for a few of the moves and that deposited up on the main ridge's shoulder. this was the large climbers right trend in the topos.
lots of steep vegetated climbing and steep exposed climbing brought us to a short (10m) knife edge ridge crossing - officially out of the shit. this is where you could drop into the gulley to climb up to the bivy or stay on the rope. gulley obviously looked nasty in October.
we scrambled another short distance to where we needed a rope. either the ugly offwidth or the steep face up and right. not entirely sure if the face is what others had chosen, but it's what we opted for. it was a little hard down low, but opened up nicely. we hauled packs on this particular pitch.
from that beltway we were a 150m pitch then a 45m pitch to the bivy site. arrived around 530pm - just under 10 hrs on the route.
no running water for us, so we went ultraconservative with fuel only melting water and saving some fuel just in case. we were treated with an awesome sunset and sunrise. we were nestled between the snow and the rock and stayed protected from the wind.
next morning we were moving by 745am and summited around 920am. glacier was very simple all things considered. snow arete was very cool and truly unique.
started to descent around 10am, opting to downclimb vs rappel. some serious exposure on sometimes pretty delicate climbing. we were pretty close to the top, only dropping to maybe 100 feet below occasionally and not for very long. we reached the main descent around noon.
on the main descent we made one anchor for a belayed downclimb relatively high up, then lots of downclimbing snow and rock until an obvious rappel station. this was a real rope stretcher (full 30m) to a subtle ledge skiers left of running water, we loaded about 1.5 liters knowing we'd get more soon - it was euphoric to get nice cold water.
more snow and rock brought us to a second obvious station, going skiers left. another 30m with some downclimbing and we were onto a broad apron.
traversing skiers left, going more directly to C-J Col, we found three more rap stations, plus a lot of downclimbing. we reached the col around 230pm. we were moving quite slow.
after quickly adjusting layers we were off to Doug's direct and searching for water. we were at the top around 5pm and made fast work down to the 6k foot level.
here is where were made our only route finding mistakes: dropping too low too early twice. this cost us probably a at least an hour. we then got back on track and were to cascade pass by 8pm and the TH by 930pm.
all in all, full value route that was surprisingly straightforward. I'd do it again.
Gear Notes:
single rack to 3in was nice to have, 60m rope was shortest we would have wanted
Approach Notes:
short, or long, depending on your perspective
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Price Glacier on Mt Shuksan
in Ice Climbing Forum
Posted
my TR from 2014. The technical skill you describe is certainly adequate, the real challenge is the route finding, and general big-mountain problem set and problem solving.
Compared to LR on Rainier, NR of Baker, and NF of Hood - I thought Price Glacier was larger (order(s) of magnitude) and more complicated objective. Technical ice and rock, shitty ice and rock, huge route, NO good beta, route advice, etc ... its truely a big and spectacular route. Very far out there, you'll feel like your on a different planet.
I'd 100% do it again, and really enjoyed the mid- to late-season conditions we found in 2014.
Enjoy, its a route youll never forget.