dave schultz

check this out. not sure how you could get so lucky when seeking an obscure/rare boot. http://www.geartrade.com/item/419347/boreal-g1-expedition-boot-in-perfect-condition

Ivan, it's not too far. You can make it probably after work on a Friday, skin in, climb on Saturday, back to the car and back to the halarious trolling Saturday night Mike, I won't be back to the PNW until 2016 or 2017. Until then I'm all game for destinations or Northeast options. Katahdin. Mt Washington is also a very social event in spring. We are also currently having another ice age with more than enough to go around.

Nice Job Mike!

1) Have climbed. Nooksack Tower combined with Price Glacier and Shuksan Summit Liberty Ridge Huntington Ravine, NH Ski Descents Mount Fuji, Japan Corie Dubh Integral, Canmore, AB, Canada (linked for those who might not be familiar) 2) Capable of, but have not climbed, but want to. Cassin Ridge Chamonix Canadian Rockies Ice and Alpine Rock (more) Grade VI Big Wall in Yosemite Desert Towers 3) Admire but will never climb. Probably anything 5.11 or harder. Probably anything WI6 or harder. Not sure on this one, still a lot of time to get on stuff and get better.

Three section one packs smaller and while it's strapped to your pack is less in-the-way than the two section whippet. It also noticed the carbon was heavier, but the smaller collapsed length trumped the one ounce difference. I've not had any problems with any my whippets, except for the pick which was recalled.

A ski boot that climbs. Find a TLT5 that's your size or go with the TLT6 - though it's rumored to not climb as well.

They only recall the top 1/3. You break the top section in half and send them the picture and they send you the replacement top section. I got mine with a really fast turnaround time.

If you arrest a fall with a normal axe you have a means to attach an anchor and begin the process of crevasse rescue, with the whippet there is no attachment point. I modified my whippet to give me that attachment option. If you were to give someone a belay while crossing a crevasse and chose to use your axe, there is some attachment point for your biner and thus the belay, with the whippet there is no attachment point. The same modification serves both purposes. These are certainly not the best practices, but making the modification provides the ability to use them, it's better to make other decisions where these are not the ones you are using. ie, having them and not needing them is better than needing them and not having them. (note, that is the warrantied whippet ... with the tip actually broken off, not very inspiring, so if you have the affected lot of whippets, I'd send it in for a replacement)

I think that most people probably want to look cool by having two tools, and they also probably know that it's unnecessary. Slight thread drift: How about two tools and two whippets? -You an use them as trekking poles -Then shorten one up and you've got an axe (the basket is easily removable, or you can just deal with it) -Then trade one out for a tool and you're ready for moderate alpine ice -Then get both out and you're all set Most people always bring two trekking poles, so it's of little additional weight. They also strap right into the spot that was vacated by your ice tool. The biggest downside I found for the whippets was that they didn't have a good attachment point for anything technical (belay, crevasse rescue, etc) but that is easily added on with a drill bit and some cord. The above combination is what I have done, I have not carried a regular ice axe since, well, I can't actually remember the last time I used a regular ice axe.

I would suggest a private guide. They are more expensive, but you can abuse the hell out of them, in a good/fun way. You will basically have your own textbook resource for information, as long as you can keep coming up with questions and continue to ask "why?" you will continue to learn. They might eventually get tired of it, but they will be energetic about your enthusiasm. Additionally, you help fund a guide who loves to work one-on-one with the clients. Caveat, you should, if possible, check to verify the credentials. I have only done one-on-one guided things and the value/benefit I think far exceeds anything you could get if the guide was dividing his/her time with more than one client. The AMGA has a list of guides qualified to whatever standard you are seeking on their website. Most/all of the local guide services cater to one-on-one guiding as well if you don't want to contact someone directly. Like Buckaroo said, you can find partners on this site. If you're honest about your ability and realistic about your goal/aspirations you should not be led astray. Good luck, you're in a great place to find competent partners who are willing to team up with you, just make sure you aren't deceptive about your ability, but don't undersell yourself either. Dave

Have you been thinking about this question for 10 years and 3 weeks?

Austin, interesting you chose to share this with everyone, but thank you - it should be a good reminder. I think it's important to point out a few other things of interest and note: 1) If I remember correct, these also ONLY occured on the right hand which we also attributed to the hand that Austin was primarily carrying his ice axe in. I didn't know or had forgotten about the constant removal of gloves to adjust the slowshoes, but those two in combination would have made it hard to keep good circulation through the hand/fingers. 2) We spent two nights, this happened on the second day, and had debated getting out early enough after bailed on the second day to make it out of the gate in time. Austin chose to sleep in the Miur Hut that night while I slept in the tent. If I had gotten a chance to see his fingers we would have broken camp and left immediately, and then dealt with the gate situation. The point of this is that it's also the partners duty to check for conditions of frostbite and be proactive about it. In the right conditions, since this trip, I make an effort to ensure my partner's digits are doing fine. Could have been worse, I'm glad you can still play the Piano. What do you do now in the winter, bigger/better gloves or do you still struggle to keep the cold out? Stay safe out there Dave

YES! Lady Killer and Pretty Nuts. The area is Kicking Horse Canyon. We had no issue with parking and access, found it to be pretty straightforward. The guidebook indicated there were a fair amount of other climbs, but we were on our way to Banff so we just did about half a day.

Don't forget about Canmore, just southeast of Banff. If you're driving from PNW you can make a stop in Golden, BC. I can't remember the name of the place we went, but it was also easy access and made the drive a little more tolerable.

Thanks for the post Dave. I carried the platy in my jacket as well and it works well. How did you rig up the adjustable sling? Also, have you figured out a good field patch for when/if the platy springs a leak? -Joe It's actually 5mm cord with a fisherman's knot and then just a stopper knot so the cord can slide through the fisherman's to adjust the length, but it won't tighten down on itself or pull through. If the platypus ruptured or sprung a leak I'd probably try and patch it with something; but I probably wouldn't spend too much time on it. I would just accept the loss and not mess with it, unless I really needed it, then I might try some backcountry mcguyver (sp?) shit. I would just have to use whatever else my partner and I brought, another reason for bringing multiple smaller water containers. You can actually go about three days without water (but it gets unpleasant). I'll also agree with, and add to someone else's recommendation for the 1/2 liter hard sided nalgene. Its small enough that its not really wasting too much room when empty, and it also a perfect size for filling with hot water in the morning and putting into your boot to pre-warm them. I'll also add that in non-winter season (ie no real risk of sub-freezing temps) a two liter camelback usually takes the place of my 1 liter platypus chest setup. I did have a camelback get a hole (fortunately near the top) around mile 4 or so (of 44+) when I ran Olympus this past August, duct tape was fairly inadequate (though probably more due to the running action, and probably would have been fine just climbing or hiking). I do think that hope contributed to an overall inadequate water consumption on that run/climb. That's my only water failure.

I carry at least two items: Always - A small (16 oz) hydroflask with boiling water from home at the start, and refill with boiling water at least every subsequent morning (more frequent if possible, depending on the nature of the route, but it ensures I will have liquid water to begin the water melting process at all times). Always - A one liter platypus collapsible with an adjustable over-the-shoulder-sling that stays in front my my body inside my outer most layer and outside the others (right next to my beacon and radio chest harness). The bottle usually makes its way to one side or the other while the beacon and the harness stay centralized. Depending on the route/objective I might be able to put the beacon in the chest harness as well. It keeps it from melting and keeps it close for easy access (thus facilitates frequent hydration). You can occasionally stuff some snow/ice into the bottle to make your 1.0 liter last to about 1.3-1.5 liters of consumable liquid. I've been doing this for about three years and have not yet had a problem. Optional third, 0.5 liter platypus collapsible (or two) that goes in the top of my pack, I can drink these fast, before they freeze They also give me some options later if something happens with one of my other two containers (albeit not good options). If its VERY cold I usually don't use this since the time window is too small, but if its above 20 degrees you've got a pretty good amount of time before they freeze. I have never used a nalgene in winter. I rarely use nalgenes even in the summer. The platypus is smaller/lighter per volume held and collapses as you consume (but possibly more fragile, but I have never experienced issues with their durability). If you carry two 0.5 liter instead of a single 1.0 liter you can also stuff them into the voids in your pack easier. YMMV

It's not fair. In the two years I lived in WA ice was never in before January (and debatable then). Haireball (and others) - I hope you get a great season of ice out there. (if you're looking at a NE trip, I'll be here for the next two years). Dave

I'll be there from the 27th through about the 7th, 9th, or 13th dependong on how it goes. I'd rather do longer aid as well. Give me a call when you get closer, or shoot me an email. 239-two-three-three-2002 daveschultz125(at)gmail(dot)com Dave

Looks like I'll have one more weekend in the PNW for a trip before heading back to the east coast. I've got gear for just about any objective from Liberty Crack to Rainier. I can start early afternoon Friday and need to be back by early Tuesday morning (9/30). Ideas: WA Pass, Rainier, Johannesburg, Enchantments Let me know, daveschultz125(at)gmail(dot)com ... no cell service until Friday

Where was this at? In Washington? In July?

Those marked up topos look like they'll be very helpful. Thanks!

I don't personally own any osprey packs, but am definitely a gear hoarder and I'll reccomend four packs: BD Speed 22. It carries skies extremely well and is very, very basic with no real bells or whistles. It's stood up to a ton of use and has carried skis A-Frame and both dead vertical on one side plus two ice tools/whippets/ski poles. I use the 22 for basic/non-technical overnights up to about two nights. This pack does not have any gear loops on the mid belt, but its a very minimalistic hip belt and does not interfere with your main climbing harness. Mammut Trion Lite 28. Also carries skis exceptionally well in the same two styles as above but has a more rigid back panel and has a little more volume - this is my technical or 3+ night kit and it has been outstanding. This pack does have gear slings on the mid belt and I have been able to use them without also having to use my main harness slings, so the mid belt just rests on top of my minimalist couloir harness (making the entire setup much more comfortable). BD Axis 33 which again carries skis like a champ and has a really good hip belt (carries weight like you don't even have it) but is just too big for most of my applications - I have used it a couple of times but was impressed (what I don't like about it is that it's height interferes with you helmeted head when trying to really far up). It also has the gear slings on the hip belt and they would work same as the Mammut above. Arcteryx Silo 40, but haven't used it in several years since I just don't pack that much stuff into any trip anymore - when I did use it though, its bombproff (but so is the price ...). I have also found that really, really dialing your system helps streamline your kit (examples: I carry a little ditty bag with snack food for the day and it clips the the should strap and dangles near my hips; I keep 1 liter of water on a shoulder sling inside my jacket for easy access and it keeps it from freezing in my pack; I always avoid bringing a tent in the winter, I do either an open bivy or snowcave). Unless I'm doing a snow pit I can usually go an entire day tour without ever really needing to get stuff from my pack unless the temps are wildly fluctuating. For climbing with a pack I really like being able to get a pack that does not interfere with normal body movement, though to predict how that will work without actually getting into the motion but the first two packs I talked about are great, the second two are not as good (but have limited laps with them since I at all cost try and stick to one of the first two). I've come to believe that Osprey packs are more inclined to bells/whistles and the backpacker / hiker than the serious ski tourer/climber. When I started hoarding a few years ago I looked into the Osprey packs, but always ended up with something else. Sry no direct help with the Osprey, but I hope the info I gave is at least useful.

Very cool report. That north side is so extensive, lots and lots of options. Neat to see a report on this particular route - any idea how often it gets climbed? I know the NWB is an option for NR climbers who start from the N side, how would this route fare as a descent route for the NR climber?

It's also a good way to start the adventure as you can end the hike out with a beer at the Lake Anne TH. It amazing to go 10+ miles (if going all the way down) without even needing to peddle. Sounds like a fun high mileage day.

I get off work around 8am on Saturday the 30th and have until around 6am on the 2nd. Not sure what objective, open to just about anything but prefer long/big routes. A late season route on Rainier, Sleese, Bear, etc Thanks, Dave