because

"Inside the Crevasse" Crevasse rescue training, Mt. Rainier, Nisqually glacier. Pictured: Jackie Korte

2-ML-89634-ML- Moved to North Cascades

ok, fine...

Thanks, we definitely will.

Trip: Mount Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier Date: 9/15/2012 Trip Report: Myself and four other girls decided to do Shuksan this past weekend...what a fantastic climb! After stopping in Sedro Wolley for our permit, (the office opens at 8am) we arrived at the Shannon Ridge TH around 9:30, and were on the trail by 10:30am. The trail to the ridge was slightly frustrating, first because you gain almost no elevation in the first mile, and then because you have 32 blowdowns to scramble over and around. Finally, we attained the ridge, and it was straightforward from there to the Sulphide Glacier. Once on the glacier, we followed fresh bootpack heading in the right direction, and there was no need for crampons in the soft snow. At around 6500', there's a newer composting backcountry toilet with a grand view of Baker and the lakes. Good place to sit...and contemplate. We made camp at a big flat area at 7600', with great views of Baker, the Shuksan pyramid, and the North Cascades all around us. We had camp set up and were enjoying our dinners by 6:30. We dubbed our team (prematurely, it turns out) "Girls on Top". Summit view from camp The next morning we were up at 4am, and roped up and heading up to the pyramid by 5am. There are several crevasses along the route both large and small, but we think we only crossed one snow bridge. A couple hundred yards below the pyramid, you currently have to traverse climber's right across a rock island (with a moat) and then back up and to the left to get to the pyramid. Once on the pyramid, we tried to ascend too soon, instead of continuing to traverse left towards the middle where the scramble route is supposed to be. I took the rope and continued to climb with the other girl in our group who also had more rock climbing experience. The two of us ended up on the pyramid ridge line at about 8840' with some low class 5 moves ahead of us and no pro for the route, since we'd planned on scrambling up and perhaps rapping down. Red line is route we were SUPPOSED to take... Being that it was our 9am turn-around time anyway, we decided to descend. One rap down (70m rope) got us past the worst of our climb up, and we continued down climbing from there. We got back to the base of the pyramid, and were roped and cramponed for the descent by 10:30. Props have to be given here for the guy we met at this point who'd hiked up from his car that morning, soloing the Fisher Chimneys route. The hike back to camp and then to the car was again straightforward (other than the blowdowns) but it felt twice as long as the hike up did. We were back at our cars by 5pm, and home to Seattle by 8. Farewell Shuksan! We'll get you next time!! Gear Notes: Standard glacier gear w/ 70m rope Long slings for rappel anchors (we used 3 on one anchor) Approach Notes: -Did I mention the 32 downed trees you have to climb over? -Follow the most obvious bootpack up the glacier, but use your map/compass (or GPS) -Once at the summit pyramid, avoid climbing too high, too soon. If you do, you'll see all the rap anchors near the real route and not have a way to get to them. Baker from near summit of Shuksan

I have Sundays through Wednesdays off this summer and am looking for reliable, low-key climbing partners for a Glacier Peak trip. (And several other peaks, too.) I'll readily admit I'm a newb to mountaineering, but I've just taken a mountaineering course and so I have crevasse rescue plus several peaks including Baker under my belt now. I've several more years of experience on rock, and have led up to 10a outdoors sport, and 7 trad. I also have wilderness survival training, first responder training, and years of hiking/wilderness experience in the Northwest and Alaska, so in spite of my Mountain-Newb-ness, I have a few other good skills to offer a team. :-) -Jaime

I have Sundays through Wednesdays off this summer (3-12's are grand...) and am looking for reliable, low-key climbing partners for a Glacier Peak trip. I'm a newb to mountaineering, but I've just taken a mountaineering course and so I have crevasse rescue plus several peaks including Baker under my belt now. I'm more experienced on rock, and have led up to 10a outdoors sport, and 7 trad. -Jaime (Also going to post this in a new thread...)