roverguy10

What size street shoe do you wear normally?

Not sure of the elevation, but it's near the top of the route through the ice fall. The only way around it is to climb up vertical ice or not go through the fall at all. The DC might be in now.

We decided against the DC due to the avy conditions. The chute on the DC is long and exposed thus a greater danger than the relatively short sections throughout the Ingraham ice fall. I'd say talk to the guides that are on the mountain to get their take on the DC, and check the snowpack for yourself and make a decision. It would probably be worth taking a day to go hike through the icefall and figure out where the issues are and scope out the DC before doing an alpine start and summit attempt.

Trip: Rainier - Ingraham Direct/Gib ledges Date: 5/5/2013 Trip Report: After being at Muir since Apr 30th, we took a shot at the summit May 5th. Leading up to the 5th, we constantly monitored the snowpack, digging pits on the ID, DC, and Gib Ledges routes. The synopsis: there is a ice layer around 30cm and 80cm, both of which are areound a Q2. The failure on a simple column test was consistently around 23 taps after the high-pressure front moved in for a few days. I would rate the avy danger as 'Moderate' with the most likely a slab slide either from the 30cm or 80cm layers. We decided to ascend via Ingraham direct on 5 May. We started at 0130, with a quick climb up to the icefall. There was a partially wanded route through the icefall, with ascends directly up the middle and the veers right at the top of the chute. The route will cross several snow bridges of varying thickness, with a steep one leading to a left turn. This turn has your traversing on a very thin ice bridge over a crevasse until you can turn right and scramble up an ice block leading you out of the icefall proper. From here, we headed directly up and slightly left of the Ingraham, intending to meet up with the Gib Ledge trail. At night by headlamp, this seemd the best route. After sunrise, I believe it would have been faster to head right and up an obvious valley to connect with the DC route. Once we got on the upper glacier, it was the standard push up to the crater and summit. We reached the summit in 7 1/2 hrs. From the crater, we decided to descend via Gib Ledges instead of going through the Ingraham ice fall and that scetch traverse. The ledges snow is BAD. It is the late season wet ice chunk crap that you can't trust for anything. It took us 6 hrs to descend due to the down-climbing and front-point traversing in the crap snow. I would not recommend Gib Ledges anymore this year unless another snow storm hits the mountain. ID may not be going very well after the ice bridge gives out on the traverse. If you plan to go that way, I would bring a couple of screws and be prepared to belay through that section. I do think the DC will be a viable option as soon as the snowpack settles a bit more.

Email sent. Size will depend on interested people.. So far it looks like 2. I prefer 3, 4 max per rope team.

Looking for a partner to attempt rainier later this week, wed-fri when the current weather clears. I have all required gear. We came down from Muir today due to the fronts coming in.

We're open to options, thinking DC or Ingraham Direct

I'm going to be in town and a friend I've climbed with before is wanting to head up Rainier. Would anyone be interested in joining us? I have glacier travel experience and am comfortable leading, have been on Rainier before and he has multiple times.

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thanks, too bad I wear a 10

What's the US Size equivalent for the Koflach Arctis?

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bump for a price drop

bump

crap missed that! Hoping to get $180, feel free to make an offer and I am willing to trade for alpine gear. Let me know..

Mens size small. I bought it last season, used it on one 3 day trip off and on. It's just a bit too small for me in the waist so I no longer need it.. $120 shipped

will this function as a locking pulley for crevasse rescue?

what's the length on the screws?

Are these a true mens 10.5 size boot?

We're headed up Rainier 4-6 Oct if anyone is interested

I'm in

I can attest that you can burn unleaded gas and avgas in a whisperlite international. I travel alot for work, sometimes to very primitive places and I still use my tried and true stove because I've never found a fuel I couldn't burn in it..

I've got some time off from work and would like to climb Rainier the first week of Oct. The dates can flex some, I have vacation 26 Sept - 11 Oct but would need a couple days on the front end to get home and organize my gear. Is anyone interested in a late season trip?

Which model is it?

Sent you a pm