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Luzak00

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Everything posted by Luzak00

  1. Fast N Lite Packs

    CiloGear. Cold Cold World. Hyperlite Mountain Gear. The Jam isn't designed for climbing. BD does a decent job of pack design, but they're way heavy. MH SummitRocket is a cool pack, but the 100D nylon for most of the pack shreds too easily against rock.
  2. What pants for alpine climbing?

    The above-listed Westcomb link (i.e., ) says their Power Shield pants do have a membrane: - Made with 4-way stretch Polartec® Power Shield®: A three-layer softshell fabric consisting of a windproof-breathable membrane sandwiched between an abrasion resistant face and industry leading velour knit fleece. Polartec® Power Shield® can resist wear and tear from the outside, while providing continuing warmth on the inside. Regardless whether Power Shield does or does not have a membrane, it seems we all agree that it is a great construction for alpine climbing pants. And at the end of the day, that's what really matters.
  3. Ice Climbing Boots Dane?

    Lots of goodness in this post, but this is totally worth highlighting. Getting a good deal on boots is only wise if you are sure the boots work for you. Zappos is ok, with free returns, but you can only wear them around the house. Backcountry and REI offer true 100% satisfaction guarantees.
  4. Corsa Nanotech Ice Axe

    The Raven balances better IMO, and I trust the head more if I'd need to self-arrest. Generally, the longer length means you can more comfortably use the axe in piolet canne in lower-angled slopes. If a slope is steep enough to comfortably use your Nanotech (50cm), then perhaps the Raven's greatest advantage is lost.
  5. What pants for alpine climbing?

    There's no membrane in Powershield. What sort of construction is it? Polartec's website calls it a membrane, FWIW. http://www.polartec.com/shelter/polartec-power-shield/how-does-it-work.aspx Not trying to be right, just curious. No, the website does not call it a membrane. It's a stretchy face fabric with fleece backing. No membrane at all. Perhaps I'm misreading the graphic on Polartec's website. I see: abrasion resistant surface fabric, moderate air exchange membrane, and a thermal insulation layer. My understanding is Power Shield consists generally of those three layers, sometimes without the inner insulation layer. It's that membrane which makes Power Shield unique, providing its low air permeability compared to other softshell garments. I could be wrong, and a couple of you here seem to think so. Could you please explain?
  6. What pants for alpine climbing?

    There's no membrane in Powershield. What sort of construction is it? Polartec's website calls it a membrane, FWIW. http://www.polartec.com/shelter/polartec-power-shield/how-does-it-work.aspx Not trying to be right, just curious.
  7. Corsa Nanotech Ice Axe

    What length is your Corsa Nanotech versus Raven Pro? It really depends what you're doing. The Nanotech covers a lot of ground, and certainly is serviceable as a piolet. The Raven Pro is a better tool if you know you'll be exclusively in Piolet Canne, so on a lot of Rainier routes for example. Ski mountaineering, the Nanotech wins. It's lighter and will do everything you need from it. For more classic mountaineering (more walk-ups), the Raven Pro is better. The question is how often do you find yourself reaching for the Raven Pro, and does that justify keeping it around. I sold mine over a year ago, and haven't regretted it a single day out in the mountains (I reach for a Venom as my moderate axe).
  8. What pants for alpine climbing?

    NW Alpine just changed the material for the Fast/Light pant. They were ~17oz, now down to ~13oz. Probably better for 3 season use now, not as good for winter. The new pants are not yet for sale, and I certainly have not tried the Fall 2012 offering. Patagonia just redid their winter softshells, their "guide" line of pants. They used Polartech Power Shield, which is the best compromise IMO if you're going to use a membrane. Basically waterproof, but stretchy and breathable. I wouldn't want heavier than the Alpine guide for use in the lower 48. I've laid my hands on these, but haven't used a pair in the wild. An excellent and overlooked pant is the REI Acme. Top-notch Schoeller fabric is incredibly stretchy, and the Nano Shield treatment does an excellent job with moisture. Right around 17oz, which is the same as the old NW Alpine. I haven't noticed any NeoShell pants new for this season, which is a shame. Rab's NeoShell pants are excellent from last year, but they're more of a hardshell. If you're stuck on getting two pairs of pants, the Rab would be the first pair of waterproof I would recommend.
  9. That is the correct price for the non-Avalung version. I wonder that's how it was mixed up? Regardless, great deal if true.
  10. Ice Climbing Boots Dane?

    First of all, I'm not Dane. Second, I can elaborate more if you're interested. Sportiva's main offerings are the Trango Extreme (Silver), Batura ("1.5" boot), Nepal. All these are very different types of boots. The above order is in better to lesser climbing performance, but this is also a reverse of the boots' durability. The Trango Extreme is a great climbing boot. It's small, stiff, light, and warm. A great performer, but the nature of the construction means these boots won't last as long as the other two. The Batura is much higher volume than either of these two, but climbs exceptionally well. Probably the warmest of the three, and the built-in gaitor is great. These can be too warm, and I don't like them as much for glacier slogs as the other two options, but definitely have their niche. The Nepal is the winter mountaineering boot. I see more of these than anything else out there, and for good reason. They are by far the most durable of these three, suffer a bit of a weight penalty because of that same leather construction, and might be the most comfortable walker (the Trangos are lighter, but the Nepals feel better to me, so it's a wash). Plenty stiff enough for technical climbing, this is the all-around cold weather boot IMO. Scarpa makes equivalents of all these boots, more or less. Fit is the paramount difference. There are nuances and personal preferences with all these having their pros and cons. With that said, if I had to make this as simple as possible… For long alpine routes including glacier/snow slogs, some ice, and a long lasting boot, the Nepal is the winner. If weight is most paramount, cost and durability aside, for the best technical climbing performance, you can't beat the Trango Extreme. For warmth and simplicity, light weight and great technical performance, the Batura is your boot. Any of these three boots will work. You're into good/better/best, where there isn't necessarily a clear objective winner here.
  11. New Nomics?

    Picture?
  12. Alpine bivy sack

    In the alpine, a bivy sack has to be waterproof or it's not worth taking (see above post). A light bivy will weigh about a pound, and won't breathe that well. A Black Diamond Firstlight or similar has enough room for two, plus some gear, you can cook in it, sit in it, and it hardly takes up more room than two side-by-side bivies. These days, a bivy is a very specialized piece of gear - very rarely is it a better choice than a "bivy tent." If you know you need one, then options by Black Diamond, Marmot, and Rab are all worth a look.
  13. Mt Shasta

    Shasta this time of year is not too fun on the south side. I would probably want crampons, too, for the top. A slip in the wrong spot could end in a slide into a crevasse up there.
  14. Jetboil problem - or gas problem?

    Simmer soup in a jetboil? Ha! Sorry, these stoves were not designed for that purpose, and all your attempts towards that end will lead to failure.
  15. Cleaning a pack

    Packs don't have waterproof membranes, rather it's usually a waterproof coating (most often, polyurethane). Applying DWR to a pack helps a little, but in my experience not much. A waterproof liner bag is much lighter and significantly simpler than a bunch of waterproof roll-top bags.
  16. Fitting Gear???

    Modern techniques call for an axe of less than 60cm. The old school method is measuring the distance between your fingers (with your arms and shoulders at rest) and your ankle. Google it. With an axe, you want steel construction, a proper adze, and good balance. The shaft may be aluminum, but you still want a steel spike (e.g. Black Diamond Raven Pro). I've never tried a crampon that was good for both glacier travel and "vert." Like the rest of us, you'll end up with several pairs.
  17. Which alpine tool to buy?

    I use a Venom as my primary tool. It's a little heavier than some of the others, but I like the picks (standard or technical), balance in piolet canne, swing, and the rubber grip.
  18. Folding a single rope in half while ridge/simul

    This is what I've done as well. Skinny (half/twin) ropes may be folded, but fat ropes should be coiled.
  19. beal vs mammut

    Beal Joker is a fantastic rope, and lighter than a 70m Mammut Serenity.
  20. SOLD PENDING TRANSFER OF FUNDS. I'm selling my old Cobras to move to a different pair of tools. These have several "modifications," which are evident in the pictures and I will explain: 1) Grip tape along half the shaft. This can be removed 2) Black Diamond's "Viper Fang" for leashless climbing. If you're old school, this could be removed too (simple screw) 3) Black Diamond's "Titan Pick" is attached. This is their solid, T-rated all-around pick. One hammer, one adze. I will also include two Black Diamond Android leashes. Picks are in good shape with lots of life left. SOLD PENDING TRANSFER OF FUNDS. $250 shipped to the USA. International buyers subject to extra charges. SOLD PENDING TRANSFER OF FUNDS. SOLD PENDING TRANSFER OF FUNDS.
  21. Boots, Boots and Boots

    This is my new favorite. Old pair was the Trango S. Both are good, as is the Scarpa Charmoz. I prefer more of a fabric boot than a leather boot in this category. They're lighter, breathe better, and feel more comfortable. Leather boots are going to be more durably waterproof and last longer, though.
  22. Waterproof Non breathable jacket?

    Sierra Designs Microlight. REI sells them for cheap.
  23. 1st gen VS 2nd BD Firslight Tent

    The Nextel Epic fabric is an older technology; it's been around for awhile, and proved itself as a solid material for the right applications (i.e. when you want something almost-waterproof yet also "highly" breathable). The new green fabric Black Diamond is using has performed well for me, and many others. I wish the floor in particular was more waterproof - a knee, foot, butt, or similar pressure will bring water through the fabric. It's as warm as you want it to be, and the condensation is more than manageable.
  24. It looked doable, but not wise. We started Little Tahoma from the highway, up through the Summerland camp (~5 miles in on the Wonderland Trail).
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