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Jcweinsx

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Everything posted by Jcweinsx

  1. You left some stuff at the old school wall near Little Dipper just right of ripper on 6/23/2014. I'd like to get these items back to you, you'll need em to climb. Describe em and let me know where you want to meet up. I climb at ozone 2x most weeks after 3:30 pm. Jason
  2. Mind games. Thuggish off-width that ends in flaring ow with horrible painful finger crack at back of flare. Enjoy! If you want better cracks go to broughton.
  3. I led the 2nd pitch of genisis about a week ago. Great line. Thanks to whoever put the bolts in they did a great job. This pitch is sooooo good. Climbing partner and I were stoked to finish out our day on this after iron spike. What is the line right of iron spike like?
  4. Crescent is very similar to zig zag and Palmer in pitch and lack of hazards. You may be able to find a moat near the rock bands but I don't recall anything close to a crevasse from 8000 up to lunch counter elevation. Not sure what it looks like further down and west. Should be fine with axe and crampons. I'd like to ski Adams again. Prefer to try SW chutes but standard south route would be OK if that's all I can find partners for. Jason
  5. Sent you a PM. I've been on rock a lot lately and want to get more skiing/snow climbing in. Jason
  6. I had free rides for a while and hated how they skied. Then I got dukes and loved the way they skied but weight was too much for long days and broke the crappy heel lifts. Now I have dynafits and after adding a toe riser from B&D I really like this setup. Skip the interim steps I fumbled thru and just get dynafits.
  7. Hire a guide or pick different objectives with less risk to an inexperienced party that is not familiar with the routes. St. Helens, south sister, adams are typical routes to learn on. Hood is not technical on south side but still manages to kill people every year, typically due to inexperience or very experienced climbers that make poor choice about weather and conditions. Don't be a statistic. Hire a guide, not too bad on $ when split with a few friends.
  8. Here's some more info http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/product-experience/self-belay-solo-climbing/introduction-us
  9. Tie 2 knots at middle. Takes almost no extra time, is not complicated, only extra gear is another locking biner, and you get a redundant system. I'm not a fan of single point failures. Would you rap off only 1 ring when there's a 2nd ring in the anchor?
  10. Mad rock makes a small locker. Omega pacific jake jr s are also on small side.
  11. Consider the K2 backup, backdrop, side stash or hardside. Most often PNW conditions will favor these over coombacks. Coombacks are still good but the others ski better in firmer conditions and corn snow. I'm slightly taller and weight 200. The 181cm backups are Perfect for me. these would be too short for resort skiing and GS turns where I prefer 186-190. I would not go shorter than 181. I would buy the ski with the lowest price, they're all very similar just different amounts of float and weight to haul uphill. If you want a surfy ski just for the 2-4 days of powder you get in a PNW season the coomback is a better choice. The side stash is prob the best compromise if you can only have 1 pair of skis. Backups are lighter and usually cost 1/2 the price of others.
  12. I'm looking for climbing partners for Smith Rock on 1/25 & 1/26. I want to climb some 5.5-5.7 multi pitch trad routes, multi pitch sport routes in 5.8-5.9 ,and some harder single pitch sport routes. I've got a single rack of nuts/gumby bells/cams and 50m rope. Planning to leave friday night from Portland and camp at the park. Let me know if you would like to join. Jason
  13. I'm a year round AT skier from PDX. I try to ski 2-3 a month in winter, spring, and early summer if conditions are still good. Did you post on turns and year site also? You might find some more leads there. Not having much luck scheduling with my current partner list so I ski solo a lot. I'd prefer some company. I'll start posting in partners when I have a date or route in mind. Weather is too nice for skiing this weekend, going climbing at smith rock instead unless someone has a great route in mind.
  14. Mist was in very nice today. 5-6 routes running at same time. Good ice. Not very wet. Bring 10cm and 13cm screws.
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