GerritD

I want to camp out for the Eclipse that is best seen in Oregon on Aug. 21 this year and I'm looking for a bivy site off the beaten path. I have never climbed in Oregon so I don't have the beta. Does anyone know of a good spot? Ideally I would be in the alpine well above the tree line, with as close to a 360 degree view as possible. I also want it to be hard enough to access that there won't be a mob of people, so this is why I'm asking here. Does anyone know of a climbers camp that's a bit rough so as to keep away the crowds? Perhaps even just a ridge-line or summit where I can pitch a tent would work. http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/solar_eclipses/TSE_2017_GoogleMapFull.html This link shows the path of the eclipse

I live in Issaquah and it sounds like I have just a bit more climbing experience than you which could work out well for both of us. Also personally I don't think climbing steep ice prepares you for winter alpine climbing THAT much. However, it is a requirement for alpine routes with actual ice instead of snow. At one point I was a strong gym climber but I struggled on run out easy alpine terrain. Maybe if you can transfer your skills better than I did it works for you but the only training for alpine climbing is alpine climbing IMO. With rock climbing it is much more transferable since there is no steep snow climbing gym. PM sent

Is it possible for you to "aid solo" your way up to a place to build a good anchor? If the aid is moderate I would not be super scared about climbing a bit with no clipping seeing as how you often climb a ways in free climbing before you get your first clip. Then you can build whatever equalized anchor you want and press on.

I remember reading this before I successful walked up Rainier. Before I even met DPS in person. Hey Dan, do you mind expending it to include curtis ridge? As long as we have an excitable boy guide from SP we have no way to fail.

Bridge creek should be fine. I have been there several times this winter and there is always some room at least. The only issue is that there are some fairly deep potholes, usually full of water, so dragging a trailer in might not be super fun if the clearance is not good but I have seen other trailers make it in just fine.

Delorme InReach I spoke with the Sargent for the Sherrif's department that coordinated the SAR. He said in his experience the ResQLink that we used has not had trouble. I did ask him about a Delorme Inreach and he said those have had very good success. I already have purchased a Delorme Inreach after this unplanned bivy and my plan is to carry that from now on.

We brought 2000+ cals on the climb but we ate an adequite breakfast before leaving camp. I think the cals was obviously too few in hindsight but we figured once we got over the summit we could walk down the walk off descent route on zero cals easily. We were expecting to have breakfast (500+ cals) along with food on route (2,000+ cals) and then eat a dinner (1200+ cals) for a total daily expenditure of close to 4,000 cals. This feels about correct, however the mistake still stands that we left our freeze friend dinners in the tent when that would have added a very small amount of weight. This is a mistake I won't make again. Also I will always bring 8oz of fuel in winter for a party of two.

I personally had been camping since Wednesday night and my food was running low but I had not run out. I left at our tent one mountain house meal for dinner when we returned and some oatmeal for breakfast. I took everything else I had with me. In hindsight I could have just taken the remainder of my food since it was not much more weight. I had at least 2000 calories for the climb but I don't remember specifics. As Jake mentioned a strong party of two solo'ed all but one pitch of the route in 10 hours round trip. Most of their steps were filled in with spindrift so they were useful occasionally but most of what we did was trail breaking in deep snow. It always felt like we were almost there. We topped out on the couloir and figured it was not more to go. Every pitch we climbed we also figured we were almost there. This constant teasing of the summit block ahead kept us pressing on. I don't think either of us considered turning around at all until it was too late.

I have to admit at the time I knew that there was a good chance using the beacon was the wrong call. Part of my decision was that I had been draining my energy for more days than Jake including leading almost all of this day in deep powder snow. I was really at my limit and I knew I was not going to lead the rest of the unknown path with a good margin of safety. Part of my decision to want to use the beacon was that I didn't really consider Jake or me would be able to lead. Of course Jake nutted up and made quick work of the final pitch. At the time we were also not sure if it was 1 pitch or not. We had experienced many heartbreaking false summits on the way up and I felt pretty defeated at that point. It seemed that calling for a rescue was the only way to be certain I could be safe. Looking back I now know that of course it was fine. I think when only considering the information I had at the time I can't really say my decision was a mistake. It does feel crappy how it all worked out. I feel embarrassed and don't really want to comment on it but I know if I do I can help prevent someone from making similar choices.

I would be willing to try this. I have Wednesday to Sunday off work. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1135407/Let_s_climb_Triple_Couloirs_an#Post1135407 How far from summer conditions could we expect the climb to be?

EDIT: I am heading to Colchuck Lake solo for the rest of the week until this Sunday (3-8). If anyone comes out there I am bringing a skinny rope and a light rack with rock and ice pro and one picket. If anyone wants to team up hit me up. I will be camping in an orange MSR dragontail tent somewhere on the opposite side of the lake from Dragontail peak itself. I unexpectedly got a five day weekend this week and I am free to climb this Wednesday until Sunday (3/4 - 3/8). I was looking at going to Colchuck lake and climbing several different routes. If someone wants to join me for a few days or even wants to come up as a one day trip and meet me for the climb we can discuss any number of itineraries. I would also be willing to just drive out together and return together only to return the next day alone. I climbed part of Triple Couloirs two weekends ago as a one day push and the conditions up there look like they have remained stable. This is my #1 target but I would also consider others. Dragontail: http://www.summitpost.org/triple-couloirs/282360 http://www.summitpost.org/dragontail-peak/851183 (Dragontail NEC) Colchuck: http://www.summitpost.org/north-buttress-couloir/162206 http://www.summitpost.org/northeast-buttress-couloir/259147 I am open to other thoughts on climbing in the area, I have a rare combination of time and weather so I am game for anything we can reasonably take a stab at. Feel free to PM here or txt me at 206- tw0, s1x, 0ne - 3058. I can discuss things by phone after 6pm today.

Nice job and great pics! I also attempted to climb TC the same day. We attempted it as a one day push from the road and were climbing at the base of the route by about 10am. It looked like there was two parties total that made it and my party of 2 joined ropes with a party of 3 to rap and downclimb from the base of the runnels. Did you anyone see a 2nd party summit this day or was it only your group of 3? In the pic below you can see three parties ahead of us.

For context the NE Slab of The Tooth is the smear of ice in the top left. This photo is cropped down from a larger photo which doesn't show any crags that I can see further left.

Alex, as I understand you are the authority on what is what around here but it seems everyone is calling the crag in Techdiver's 2nd picture rap wall. See the MP link below. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/rap-wall/108509194 As for Not Quite a Plum, again, you must be correct but I have heard everyone call that Bryant buttress. It looks like you have been correcting noobs for well over 10 years now. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/284119/Alpental_ice I have labeled a picture below with what I believe is what you are saying the crags are named. Where is rap wall? As I understand the top left most crag labeled in the picture as Bryant Buttress has a number of fixed hanging draws and very difficult mixed climbing so if this is not Rap wall it is another very difficult mixed crag.

I can 2nd the recommendation to learn on your own. Find a partner who you can talk things through with and read Freedom of the Hills over and over. Go find some snow to practice and spend MULTIPLE sessions practicing self arrest, crampon/ice axe technique, and crevasse rescue systems. I have met plenty of people who learned in a class how to do these things but only practiced them for an hour at the tail end of class and promptly forgot everything instead of drilling the muscle memory for the techniques. The technical rock climbing stuff you can learn at an easy crag. Have a friend put you on top rope while another friend puts you on lead, whether it's bolts or trad gear you are using for protection. This way you don't even need a guide since when you inevitably mess things up you are on top rope anyway. Also hiring the occasional guide for a climb is a better idea than taking a course. The courses go over the skills that you can learn in a book and simply watching a guide climbing and copying their movements will be more useful than all the home theory learning you can ever have.

I am starting to feel like a shill for Arcteryx recommending the Alpha FL 30/45 packs so often but they really are perfect for what you want to do. The clean exterior is perfect for schwacking on approach. The 45 liter pack is more like a 30 liter pack that has a skirt to extend up for the approach. It would be beyond awkward to climb with the skirt extended and overnight gear but it works perfectly for ditching some stuff at camp and pressing on to a technical route above. I would say the 45 is great for winter technical routes or spring/summer volcanoes whereas the 30 should get you through summer rock routes fine. http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?language=EN&gender=Mens&model=Alpha-FL-45-Backpack The pack is cheaper for the same size Cilogear and way lighter. In fact the Cilogear 30:30 comes in at 1,230g (2.7lbs) but the Arcteryx Alpha FL 45 weights just 650g (1.44lbs). Why pay more for a heavier and smaller pack? The only reason I see is if the fit on the Cilogear is way better for you then the Arcteryx is not an option.

I haven't done any objectives as serious as the Curtis Ridge but I bet I have time twice as much time fussing with water systems and half as much time climbing as most here. I like the dromedaries for overnight winter climbs or spring volcano climbing. Colin Haley lists he uses them and you can see a 4 liter dromedary is often used in some of his videos. http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/News/2014-10-22/What-s-in-Colin-Haley-s-Pack-?l=CA#.VIJMD2B0wy8 The MSR Dromlite and the Platypus collapsible bottles are rated for boiling water just fine. It doesn't say it online but I confirmed it at one point. I just wrap the dromedary or bottle in my puffy jacket which also makes switching to a jacket already nice an toasty but then the water gets cold quick. I am curious how this works in truly cold conditions, I can't imagine it holds up for long.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1131839/Source_Lake_ice_climbing_fall Also, I know a guy who knows the guy on who said on Facebook he is messed up but doesn't apparently have bad head trauma so that is good news.

There was no girl in the party of two heading up. One of them had gear with a guide company badge embroidered, I think RMI. They were willing to wait out Saturday avy/climbing problems for a good day Sunday and after being rained on all day we were not so stoked for that plan.

http://mbssustainableroads.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/southmbs062713_300dpi.pdf (warning big pdf) The main mailbox trailhead is in state land. Unless you did some wild multi-peak bagging adventure in autumn pissing rainfall you should only need a discover pass.

I would always offer to split or pay in full myself. I don't really see a scenario where I would ask a partner to pay for something in full, even if it was their "fault." Some amount of mistakes are to be expected while climbing and I could easily have dropped my partners sleeping bag into a crevasse. I recently left all my own gear when fleeing a route in a thunderstorm and I refused to accept any split of the costs. Part of the reason is that if I am leaving all of my own gear I feel like I can dictate that the rappel anchors perform to my own level of safety at my own expense. Personally I would rather pay my way to safer climbing whenever possible and I won't hesitate to leave a cam on rappel.

Rainier is surely your best bet. You can easily access the glaciers whereas if you went to the Stuart range or the north cascades you would likely have a longer or more difficult hike. A guide once told me when he was younger and guiding regularly on Rainier he would wait for windstorms to blast through camp Muir and rappel into the crevasses nearby to collect free loot which he could sell to keep his dirtbag lifestyle going. He said he had actually retrieved a tent that had 2x sleeping bags, pads, packs, the works, inside and offered it to it's rightful owner who enthusiastically declined to every consider climbing again after waiting out the storm terrified in the Muir Hut.

This article is very relevant to my interests. I have been looking at bolting some routes locally and I have done a ton of research to figure out what we need west of the cascade crest. Personally I decided that zinc plated steel is not good enough around here. As they mention in the article it will work for a few years but needs to replaced sooner so eventually the crags are going to be covered in old rusted holes and clipped bolts. I think that we should at least be using stainless steel and I am even considering marine grade just to save myself from replacing it 10 years from now. I don't see bolts discussed much on here other than flaming about alpine descent routes. What are other opinions about what kind of materials should be used for bolting in Western Washington?

Seattle Bouldering Project had a multi session seminar with some kind of Physical therapist who was also an avid climber. I didn't attend but talked to people who did and it was all about preventing and recovering from injuries such as carpal tunnel and shoulder issues. I searched on the internet but couldn't find his name. Does anyone else know? I also have mild carpal tunnel and could probably use a consultation.

Wow they didn't place bolts but they didn't even place pitons either. Pretty sick to get a bunch of alpine FA's without placing a single pin. I always wonder about when hard asses climb like this if they just got lucky and had good features for easily protected climbing. I bet with 10x FA's in this trip that can't be the case and they just have giant balls. They must be down to run it out huge to maintain their ethical standards. Super inspiring stuff.