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christophbenells

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Everything posted by christophbenells

  1. yeah, pretty normal to hack though it. just do it gingerly...maybe theres some rock or ice near by you can anchor to?
  2. the aai blog says the polish route was repeated a few weeks ago.
  3. Thanks for all the replies folks. so here's the deal, the girlfriend loves sailing and the ocean. i have so far chosen the places we live and she has followed me along. I've left her alone for several months while i go on expeditions. Its her turn to be close to what she loves, the ocean and sailing adventures. Where can we go that will still have relatively close access to the mountains for me? Her #1 choice would be port townsend. We should probably just do bellingham or seattle.
  4. How is living in Anacortes for rock climbers, mountaineers and skiers? How is the rock on Mt. Eerie? Enough to keep one busy? How about the drive to Baker, Squamish and such? (yes i've looked at google maps) What is life like there in Anacortes? Lots of stuff to do? Good music? Freindly people? Fun bars? Is there any work for someone who works in the ski industry?
  5. He was a great guy. Here is a TR from him a couple years ago. March Madness, Crown Jewel, Black Spider I climbed March Madness and Crown Jewel this January, both for the first time and had great experiences. I climbed March Madness, and some other ice runnels, solo and found it rewarding climbing, spending time being extra attentive and purposeful about pick placements due to its interact nature on March Madness, sometimes having to dig beneath a layer of sun effected ice and insubstantial drips. As for Crown Jewel, not that its there anymore, was probably the most fun I have ever had climbing in Oregon and got to share it with good company. I found myself laughing joyfully the whole way up, mostly moving over 4"-8" plastic ice, thinner in spots and opportunities to sink a couple 16cm and a nice apron to cling at the top of out second pitch. Once we toped out, we climbed steep moss and mud to a ridge to the east and walk it to the road. Lastly, We, myself and two friends, went up the Center Drip on the Black Spider on February 2nd. Which, like Wayne said, is a very do-able route. No harder then say WI3 with some foot placements on rock here and there, with perfect sticks, seriously, the ice was fucking amazing. We soloed everything but the last pitch, which was the crux and was a very fun, airy lead. We started at timberline, up the palmer, and round under steal cliffs, around Wy'est. Eleven and a half hours round trip. Found a picket, a sling and a locker in the chute we down climbed after summiting, think it might have been the Mazama's Chute. Happy Climbing. Here are some pics. Gear Notes: Full rubber raincoat for Crown Jewel in the conditions we climbed it in. Approach Notes: For Crown Jewel there is a rail road pull out between Exit 22 and Exit 23 on 84 just before Mirror Lake that is the best access. Park and walk down the tracks to the base of the climb.
  6. yes, Dasan Marshall. Very sad to hear about it this morning.
  7. I was never very close with Dasan, but I would see him several times throughout the winter climbing season. He was always so stoked. He would periodically post on the forums here. Very sorry to hear he died in a climbing accident on Yukla in the chugach range. Last year in the AK range we were so stoked when his familiar face popped in our cook tent unexpectedly. You will be missed buddy. I still have your old 22cm bd screw and I will put it to good use for you.
  8. hi there. I am interested in these tools. how firm are you on the no shipping? I am living in california for the next little while...
  9. trade em in to next adventure, should get you some good store credit.
  10. i see the rome whiteroom on sale on the interwebs at $389. that board weighs 6 lbs. you can find used dynafits for under 200 (or just the toe peices for $165 new), i see some bd slants for 150$ new. Take a dremel to em and they ride ok. or find some used tlt5's. Burton race plates are around 100$ for a full split binding setup. you can do it for cheap if you try. Don't get me wrong i love skiing as well. I definitely encourage you to get a ski setup also. if you tried ski touring on the equivelant gear that you are on on a split you would hate it, ever try alpine trekkers?
  11. sol has the right stuff. you dont have to give up on the splitboard. phantoms and dynafit tlts are the way to go. I've got quiver killers in my board and ski set-up so i have one set of dynafit bindings and boots for both a splitboard and skimo skis. you can go just as far, just as fast, and just as efficient on a splitboard. You just have to know what you're doing... that being said if i were just going to approach a climb i would do a ski setup, mostly because they are skinnier so there is less drag and more glide. (78mm width skis with mohair skins) The bigger part of the whole backcountry deal is knowing your equipment (and terrain) well so your not just fiddling with gear all day. Thats what kills your efficiency and drains your muscle power. most people take way too much stuff. too much clothing, too many gadgets, elaborate foods, etc.
  12. no it's obviously a neighbor of fairweather.
  13. thats mt. hood from government camp.
  14. thats some good stuff right there. those cassin tools are quite intriguing!
  15. Anybody out there (besides cold thistle) have any comparisons between the two? From what I can tell the Scarpas are not quite as warm, but are a little more nimble on technical ground since it is a bit lower profile and thinner sole. I like my spantiks but they are damn big boots, wondering if trading them in is worth it or not. The general use would be climbing 5.9/ WI4 and lower in AK range.
  16. I got a hamstring graft about 5 or 6 years ago. I went to a surgeon who specializes in athletes. My left leg still has bit less muscle mass than the right, but it has the same amount of strength as far as i can tell. Everyone I know who has done the cadaver thing has torn it again right after the "healing" was complete. As far as i know the cadaver grafts do not take quite as well as using one of your own ligaments.
  17. SWEET FRUIT BOOTS! New in box. Size 10, integrated gaiter, bolted on petzl monopoint crampons. Fit is similar to salomon trail runners. $150$ obo.
  18. I've got some NEW! (sorry no tags) Eddie Bauer neoteric bibs for sale. Size small, Grey color. Polartec neoshell fabric is awesome. Compare at $399.99$ Yours for $100$ Great pants for BC skiing or general mountaineering. http://www.eddiebauer.com/product/neoteric-removable-ski-bib/38832136/_/A-ebSku_0880654832000040__38832136_catalog10002_en__US
  19. I've got a patagonia softshell jacket for sale. Size large, New with tags. It is all grey, grey zippers and logo. http://www.backcountry.com/patagonia-adze-softshell-jacket-mens
  20. you should look at www.splitboard.com forums.
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