christophbenells

many mountain boots will fit into fritschi bindings, and yes, the voile mountain plate is basically a simple silveretta with no release. I've used this setup alot, and wouldn't you know it, i have all the extra parts to set you up too... I got all this stuff i need to get rid of, i'll set you up at real good price.

just keep on drivin to north conway and i'm right here! but wait, are you posting this as a joke?

I'm gonna be heading to WA pass in the next few days, looking for a partner for a long moderate climb. 5.8-9 would be perfect, though I will follow into the .10 range. Thanks for any responses! chris

Click the link for amazing aerial photos of the eruption. http://splitboard.com/talk/topic/mt-st-helens-1-17-14-an-aerial-prelude/

Thanks Mark. How about ascents? The book says one ascent of mt. providence by its south face, there's surely more by now right?

Saw this ridge while flying into the Kahiltna base camp last year. I was under the impression it is the southeast spur on Mt. Hunter. Can anyone confirm or deny?

its a rutted out dirt road with big water barrier bumps. would be fun on a mountain bike!

Just a heads up, it's Sierra. Good to know before you unnecessarily pluralize it and betray the fact that you're not a "local" from the bay area. hey buddy, I actually grew up in the sierras in a small town called shaver lake, lived in mammoth lakes for many years, and i'm currently living in tahoma on lake tahoe's west shore. everyone calls it the sierras. nobody says "im going to the sierra" that would sound dumb.

a couple weeks in the bugaboo's would be sweet. or some hard granite routes in the sierras. I seen you been down thare. maybe the incredible hulk, or mithral dihedral etc.

how about an expedition?

I don't think your gonna find any new routes up rainier. Unless you do something very dangerous... its all been climbed, except directly under big ice cliffs, sure that would be a new route but a stupid route. Those things break off and would smash you to oblivion.

just have to grab the ropes and pull up a bit and jimmy the slack through your rappel device, if that's too hard I guess you could do a leg prussic too.

I carry a prussic in my pocket, tie the prussic on top to take weight off of your preferred device (don't take the device off yet) and put your rappel device on the bottom of everything. Take off solo device and rap.

It's a case by case basis. If i'm on a glacier that is sketchy and a fall is more likely, I will wear a webbing harness on my chest. I will leave it unclipped until I come to a nasty snow bridge and then clip it. If you cant tell where the snow bridges are and chances of a fall are great, then keep it clipped in. Mostly in the cascades all that is overkill, but hey, you never know until you go.

anybody out there using the petzl shunt?

The dogs are all eating eachother's poop. Awesome TR. so many cool things out there in this world.

did you meet mcalpine?

People have climbed much harder than the cassin in touring boots. I believe that stephen koch did the ffa of the north buttress on hunter in scarpa ski boots...the picture in the supertopo AK book shows him rappelling with what look to me like ski boots...also saw a blog of an englishman climbing deprivation on hunter NB in scarpa maestrale.... http://willharrisclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/06/www.talkeetnaair.com.html#!/2013/06/www.talkeetnaair.com.html however for cassin you would need some overboots, but only after the technical portions. I think you could climb cassin in tlt 5/6 boots no problem. Fit em with warmer intuition liners and badda bing badda boom.

Looking for 40 below overboots. hoping to find a pair of the fresh tracks model for a dynafit tlt 5 28.5. do you have some?

there will be snow, you may consider mt. shasta also. the recent storm deposited lots of heavy wet snow on the mountain that is going to push the season well into the spring (hopefully). last year was similar to this, maybe not quite as bad, and i was skiing great snow on the n side of adams on july 4th.

they tend to do that...the combo of a tight fitting heel cup on aggressive ice boots and the pivot point in front of your toe create lots of leverage right there where you blistered. i think they were designed more to work with higher volume boots like a plastic koflach or an inverno. I use these splitboard bindings, they move the pivot point right under your toes and i think they tour a bit better. No release, but they're cheap! You can create a cheap diy heel lockdown by drilling a hole in the plate and using a door latch. http://www.voile.com/voile-splitboard-bindings/voile-mtn-plate-kit.html

1) Have climbed. Mt. Frances sw ridge Bacon and Eggs, mini mini moonflower Mt. Hood north face right gully Blownout beacon rock and other 5.10 trad 2) Capable of but have not climbed. Denali Mt. Huntington Mooses Tooth Yosemite big walls 3) Admire but will never climb Hunter's North buttress Himalayas Patagonia Antartica 5.12

i've seen a 18 year old or so kid in yukon charlie snowshoes and ll bean boots (no trekking poles) fall a few hundred feet from the hogsback, almost went into the fumarole. The only thing that saved him from broked legs/anles was that he had no crampons...ironic huh? when i showed him my ice ax, dynafit boots and automatic crampons he was unimpressed.

just like the old scout troop leader saying "dress for the weather you want, not the weather you got"