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bedellympian

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Posts posted by bedellympian

  1. Although after rereading the description in the Nelson/Potterfield Guide I think that we were in the Cascadian. His description matches perfectly with the snow field and also the sandy trail in the couloir. Since the Cascadian is not actually labeled on maps its possible that it's become a matter of climber opinion which is the "real" Cascadian? Who really decides these things anyway? Fred Beckey? My main point: follow the cairns to the sandy trail and the descent is pretty easy.

  2. Trip: Mt. Stuart - Complete North Ridge

     

    Date: 8/25/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    Travis Holman and I hiked in to climb the CNR on Sunday Aug 25th. It rained a bit on the approach but we were optimistic the weather would improve the next day, or at least the day after that. It did not.

     

    We bivied near the base of the ridge and started climbing Monday morning with the intention of summiting and starting the descent that day. The day started clear but soon socked in. We had some route finding difficulties. It rained a bit but not too bad. We got to the Great Gendarme around 7:30pm. I pulled on some gear to speed stuff up. It started snowing while I was on the OW pitch. We found a bivy ledge just past the Gendarme.

     

    The next morning the visibility was even worse. We eventually found the summit and the descent cairns. Maybe we are just used to Oregon choss and scree but the Cascadian seemed really easy and we were both puzzled as to why people complain about it so much. The cairns lead right into it and some loose talus up high quickly resolves to a well defined trail through the scree. We both thought that climbing South Sister via the trail on its south side is just as bad or worse.

     

    I would also like to thank those climbers who choose to use brand-new, light-weight biners for retreating from this route. I have 5 nice new biners and Travis has quite a few also!

     

    Here is my blog post with more pics and details...

     

    Mountain Mischief

     

    Gear Notes:

    single rack from small to #4 camalot, lots of alpine draws, 60m rope, a rain fly for bivies, no pons or axes were taken and we didn't regret that decision at all

     

    Approach Notes:

    Ingalls to Goat Pass, descent via Cascadian and Long's Pass

     

    bottom of n ridge

    IMG_8594.JPG

     

    sherpa peak

    IMG_8602.JPG

     

    sherpa and ice cliff glaciers

    IMG_8603.JPG

     

    rap tat near our bivy, which we used to get back on route

    IMG_8608.JPG

     

    me on the summit in stellar conditions

    IMG_8619.JPG

  3. Nice work! I climbed the Grand via Direct Exum last year. It took us over 21 hours car-car but was a total blast.

     

    I wouldn't be worried about your altitude response. I can't remember how many times I've been over 13,000 ft now but I respond differently every time. I ran South Sister (10k') a few days before the Grand and felt terrible (probably a little dehydrated which seems to be key for me at altitude). Three days later I felt awesome on the Grand and had no problems despite being much higher.

  4. Thanks for all the input guys.

     

    Scared: My PGs were 45s. Recently tried Spantiks and think I could wear a 43 comfortably. I was under the impression that 6000s and Spantiks were comparable in warmth and use. Is this not correct?

     

    Now leaning toward a single boot, I guess, as it seems that would be more useful for me. I guess I can always wear vapor barrier socks and/or carry newspaper to keep the boot dry on multi-days.

     

    I have a wide fore foot but otherwise its skinny with a high arch... not really sure if this lends towards Scarpa or Sportiva more, or some other brand.

  5. Hey guys,

     

    Just wanted to say thanks for posting. The input was super helpful. I ended up trying to climb a peak in the Delta Range (you might have seen the TR on here about a month ago). Other than that I got busy and didn't do too much climbing. Looks like I'll be back next year in August for a bit, but hopefully one of these years I'll make it in April or May and have some real fun!

  6. Thanks for the input Dave!

     

    I had heard that the new PG is thinner and colder. I also read the Spantik review on the cc blog which compared it to Scarpa Phantom series and said the less rockered toe on the Phantom is a downer for approaches. Since you own a pair what is your experience? Do you have the new orange PGs or the older red model?

     

    Anyone have experience climbing WI5 or M6 in Spantiks?

  7. Just sold a pair of Scarpa Phantom Guides (older red model) because they were really too big for my feet. Need a mountaineering boot but not sure what to get. I have the money from selling the PGs and thought about getting Spantiks... overkill for most stuff I know, but they feel really good on my feet, climb well, and they have the removable liners so I can use them on multi day winter trips and be fine.

     

    Right now I have approach shoes and TLT5 ski boots so summer alpine rock routes and moderate winter routes with skiing are covered.

     

    I live in Oregon so the gnarliest routes I will get on with these boots will be hard Hood routes in winter. That said I have family in Alaska and visit most years so I will have the opportunity to climb up there in summer.

     

    Some of the routes I'd like to get on over the next couple years for which I will probably use these boots:

     

    March Maddness, Illumination Rock (WI4/5)

    North Face Right Gully, Mount Hood (IV, WI3)

    Arachnophobia, Mount Hood (IV, 5.9 AI4)

    Yocum Ridge, Mount Hood (IV, AI3, 60deg)

    North Ridge, Mount Baker (III+, 70+deg)

    Triple Couloirs, Dragontail Peak (III-IV, 5.8, 50+deg)

    Liberty Ridge, Mount Rainier (V, AI3, 50deg)

    North Face of North Peak, Mount Index (V, 5.7, steep mixed terrain)

     

    I know people probably have multiple boots but I'd like to stick with one good pair for now.

     

    Thoughts? Suggestions?

  8. That was a pretty ridiculous video, looks like a complete load of media hype BS. Even so, there are so many derogatory comments on the youtube page I almost feel sorry for the guy. His ego must be completely crushed from a 1,000ft ground fall.

  9. I was planning a trip up to do WA pass and Boston Basin climbs (from Bend). Probably come up the East side. Whats the easiest way from Mazama to Boston if 20 is closed? Steven's Pass?

     

    Should I just go to the Stuart Range and skip Boston? What's the take from North Cascades vets?

  10. Trip: Smith Rock, Monkey Face - W Face Variation

     

    Date: 8/10/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    John F and I climbed Monkey Face via W Face variation on Saturday. There was no one on the route. I guess that was because the forecast called for rain with a chance of thunder storms. It did rain and it did thunder but luckily the weather cleared up for a couple hours and we made the top.

     

    We took no aid gear or ascenders for the bolt ladder. We used a sling each for occasional feet and yarded on draws. With a good belayer this works well. Just make sure you think through your system first and are on the same page. We both cleared this pitch in less than 30 minutes.

     

    Heads up: at least two bolts are loose and look like they could go, we felt this added to the excitement but others may feel differently.

     

    Blog w/ pics, etc. http://mountainmischief.blogspot.com/2013/08/monkey-face-via-west-face-variation.html

     

    Gear Notes:

    single rack, lots of draws, rap line and regular rope

     

    Approach Notes:

    Asterisks Pass

  11. Trip: Three Fingered Jack - South Ridge

     

    Date: 8/8/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    Travis Holman and I climbed 3FJ Thursday morning. It was a surprisingly short approach and climb. There is much less 5th class than the slightly shorter neighbor, Mt. Washington, but the rock is much worse.

     

    Now that I have ticked it, I doubt I could be convinced to return unless it was frozen solid. There appeared to be good steep couloirs on both the E and W faces that might prove fun in winter.

     

    Blog post: http://mountainmischief.blogspot.com/2013/08/3fj.html

     

    Gear Notes:

    slings & nuts (I think we placed 6 or 7 pieces of pro on the whole thing)

     

    Approach Notes:

    PCT north from Santiam Pass

  12. Trip: White Princess - Delta Range - W Ridge/M'ladies Glacier

     

    Date: 7/3/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    My friend Eric and I reached a high point somewhere between 9000 and 8500 ft on the W Ridge of White Princess. We encountered rain, hail, snow, wind and low visibility conditions.

     

    We hiked in 12+ miles from the road on the Castner Glacier on July 2nd (7hrs). We camped on the glacier around 5,000ft. July 3rd we climbed to our highpoint. The route was mostly scree and talus with 1500ft of snow and ice between 40 and 50 deg. We returned to camp in 9hrs and hiked back out the way we had came in 5hrs.

     

    more details and photos... Mountain Mischief

     

    Gear Notes:

    3 short axes and pons, a short rope and some pickets could have made the route to the summit more reasonable... its alaska so bring clothing for all conditions

     

    Approach Notes:

    Richardson Highway bridge over Castner River, follow river to glacier, follow glacier to 3 way branch (7.5 mile straight line), south/Milady branch to base of W Ridge (3 mile straight line)

  13. I'm in Fairbanks through July 22nd (trip to Anchorage for about a week in early July). If anyone wants a crag partner for the interior or is interested in doing something more alpine let me know. Lead 5.10 trad/5.11 sport. Comfortable in mountains, limited glacier travel experience (I'm from Oregon).

  14. So I'm in Alaska for about a month visiting friends and family (mainly Fairbanks but I'll be in Anchorage for a week or more). I don't have a partner yet (anyone interested?) but I am interested in climbing something while I'm here.

     

    Given my time and money I want something that I can do relatively quickly, without flying in. I am also relatively new to technical alpine climbing so it should probably be 5.9/AI3 or lower. I was thinking of something in the Chugach but maybe there are better objectives else where.

     

    Any ideas? My window is July 6-20 but I can only take 3-5 days total.

     

    Thanks!

  15. Trip: Squamish - multiple

     

    Date: 6/12/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    Caitlin and I met our friend Chris in Squamish for some rock climbing. It was our first time at Squamish.

     

    June 12th at Shannon Falls we climbed Skywalker (5p, 5.8) with rain on the first two pitches which turned into perfect weather as we got higher. We then climbed Klahanie Crack (5.7) and a 10a next to it.

     

    June 13th we climbed Diedre (6p, 5.8) on the Apron, car-car in 4 hours with a party of 3.

     

    June 14th we climbed Exasperator (2p, 5.10c) before packing up to leave.

     

    Blog post with pictures: Mountain Mischief

     

    Gear Notes:

    2 70m ropes, double rack (nuts, small cams and camalots to #3)

     

    Approach Notes:

    Really short walks!

  16. Trip: Mt. Washington - North Ridge rock via NW bowl

     

    Date: 6/1/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    I climbed Mt. Washington on Saturday via the North Ridge. I camped at the PCT TH on Friday night and set out at 6am, sleeping in like a total slob. The climbers trail is still hidden by snow. I ended up on the flanks of the West Ridge and traversed into the NW bowl before beelining up to the base of the summit pinnacle on the North Ridge (40+ deg neve). The rock still has snow on it but it was soft enough to kick step so I climbed to the summit in guide tennies. I made two short raps w/ a 30m rope and down climbed the rest. Followed the North Ridge proper back. Still couldn't find the climbers trail in the trees. Got back to the car before 1pm. Car to car in under 7 hours, no record but seemed good under the circumstances.

     

    Blog post w/ photos: Mountain Mischief

     

    Gear Notes:

    Custom guide tennies thanks to the Gear Fix in Bend, strap-on pons, 2 tools (not necessary but its fun to pretend your Ueli Steck in that one video when you're climbing on steep snow), 30m 8mm half rope for raps, slings and leaver biners.

     

    Approach Notes:

    PCT south. I would start heading up/SE, off the trail, once you leave the burn. If you just keep going uphill you'll end up on the N ridge.

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