Alex789
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Posts posted by Alex789
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Trip: Colchuck Peak - NE couloir
Date: 4/2/2017
Trip Report:
My friend Jesus and I climbed Colchuck Peak NE couloir last weekend. The road to the Stuart Lake trailhead is closed and I expect it to be opened later this season as there is a lot of snow in Mountaineering Creek. We camped at the Colchuck Lake still frozen solid.
We left our tent at 4:45. The weather was windy and it snowed.
The climbing was straightforward with good snow to kick steps. The bergshrund posed no problems. We climbed unroped and Jesus carried our rope in a pack as an exercise. We took left gully entrance and the climbing steepened. We came to a large overhanging cornice and could not see any logical exit. We carried our avalanche kits with us and Jesus told: "We have shovels, why don't we just punch a hole in it?" So we did. Almost 2 hours of digging and we made a good tunnel to escape on top of the ridge.
Proud of our work, we continued to the summit.
Currently the cornice is pretty solid, but with warming temperatures in spring it might collapse one day.
Gear Notes:
1 60m rope
2 ice tools - each
3 ice screws - not used
3 pickets - used 2
Small rock rack - not used
Several slings - used 2 for pickets
Avi kits - each, including snow shovels
Approach Notes:
A lot of snow, flotation is needed
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I might be interested in Chamonix trip. I've sent details in PM.
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Trip: Canadian Rockies - mount Victoria, mount Louis, mount Athabasca
Date: 7/26/2016
Trip Report:
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Hi Martin,
I accidentally came across your post. You mentioned possible Alaska plans and I always try to keep am eye on climbers with desire to tackle bigger mountains. We can climb something locally and discuss some future plans. Locally I am open to all possible objectives: rock, ice, alpine. I live in Redmond.
Cheers,
Alex
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I am planning to attempt Cho Oyu - 8000 meter peak in Himalaya.
I want to climb standard route from Tibet side without guides. Spring 2017 is best for me, but I can probably wait for Fall if necessary. I am looking for solid climbing partners for this expedition.
Some most important detail first:
- Time - 6 weeks.
- Start - beginning of April or end of August
- Logistic - "base package" from some company-outfitter (have yet to choose)
- Cost - around 10,000 USD, probably more
- Experience - High altitude (Denali, Aconcagua, any 7000 m peak)
If interested - reply, PM,
Text: 425-691-9793
Or Email: alexander@gorobets.com
All the best,
Alex
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Hi Mac,
I need a partner for this weekend to climb. I would like to go to Index or Leavenworth. I can lead trad 10a and follow harder stuff. I have a rope and a rack. If interested, reply here or text: 425-691-9793
Cheers,
Alex
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Partner found.
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Looking for partner for this Saturday.
Lead 10a follow 10c. Have a rope and rack.
Text 425-691-9793
Alex
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TR tool is broken.
Here is a link to TR on my web site:
Approach notes:
Heavy bushwhacking in White Salmon creek at this time of year.
Gear notes:
- 60 m rope
- Ice axe and ice tool each
- 2 pickets
- 3 ice screws. Used one 2 times.
- Small rock rack for SE ridge
- Several runners
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I might be interested for Reid HW this Sunday. Let's chat.
425-691-9793
alexander@gorobets.com
Alex
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Nice work and good track posted! I will definitely use it when I will climb this route.
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Wow, too bad for getting a ticket.
Last year we were also late, but the lady in the hotel just opened the gate. It seems it's up to individual officers on what to do in such situations. Too bad for NPS.
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Fantastic! Next year will go there for sure.
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Hi guys,
We have some of your gear: 1 cam (#1 I think), 4 small biners and a sling. We dismantled one of your rap stations, but left others intact.
I have 2 small biners and my friend got the rest. He lives in Oregon and will come to Seatle area in 1 - 2 weeks. He will bring what he took back then. I work in Bellevue. Email me at alexander@gorobets.com to arrange returning gear to you.
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Trip: Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully
Date: 1/13/2016
Trip Report:
My friend Oleg and I climbed New York Gully on Sunday January 10th. We started hiking from grooming parking lot at 5:20 AM. We were not sure about the approach, getting information from this topo:
http://kurthicks.com/2012/02/18/snoqualmie-mountain-nw-face-topo/'>http://kurthicks.com/2012/02/18/snoqualmie-mountain-nw-face-topo/
We followed tracks for some times on climbers right side of Alpental valley and then headed up through the woods in North direction. The snow was deep and we were slowly breaking trail, taking turns. We did not take snowshoes, because we thought it would be too steep for snowshoeing and it was. We bypassed lower rock band on left.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/004_Chair_Peak_on_right.jpg[/img]
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/010.jpg[/img]
When some clearings occurred in the forest we found some tracks again and hiked faster. Finally we came to the view of the mount Snoqualmie subsidiary summit. The tracks led us straight to the notch. We descended on North side of the ridge and continued following tracks.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/022.jpg[/img]
The tracks led us to a prominent couloir and then stopped near the beginning of left-leaning ramp which was a beginning of our route.
Pitch 1 one was easy, but exposed snow climbing. We belayed, but did not put any pro.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/031.jpg[/img]
Pitch 1 ends at the beginning of a broad right-leaning couloir. This couloir is not “New York Gully” route, probably “La Express”. We belayed on a fixed anchor. Later we found fixed anchors on all stations. Probably they were left by party from this TR:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1146144
Pitch 2 continued left and up. It was steeper with some pieces of real climbing.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/034_Pitch_2.jpg[/img]
Pitch 2 ends at the large dead tree. From here we could see unmistakable right-leaning box gully.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/055.jpg[/img]
Pitch 3 was mixed climbing. There was very little ice. Climbing was pulling on frozen moss and occasional drytooling. Pitch 3 ends on a snow ledge.
Pitch 4 is similar to pitch 4, but easier, shorter and with more hard snow.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/067.jpg[/img]
Pitch 4 ends at the short steep wall – crux of the route.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/076.jpg[/img]
Pitch 5. Oleg aided the crux, using fixed gear. After the crux was easier climbing on snow slopes.
Pitch 6 traverses right and goes to the notch in the ridge between 2 gendarmes.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/088.jpg[/img]
To bypass the right gendarme, we rappelled on the other side using fixed station on a tree.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/097.jpg[/img]
Then we ascended a snow slope to a summit col.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/100.jpg[/img]
We decided not to scramble to the summit, because it was already 3:45PM and the winter day was short. We descended through the woods to the Alpental parking lot.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/124.jpg[/img]
In the end we veered too much to the left and found steep cliff drops right before the parking lot. We had to make 2 rappels on trees. We came to the car at 6:15 PM.
Another great day!
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2016_Albums/2016_01_10_New_York_Gully/043.jpg[/img]
Gear Notes:
2 half ropes
2 pairs of tools per climber
A set of cams from 0.2” to 3”: TCUs: blue, yellow, orange, red; BD camalots: 0.2, 0.3, 0.75, 3; Omega Pacific link cams: purple and yellow. Used most of them.
10 runners, 2 quickdraws
6 pitons. Used 2. There are some old pitons on a route.
Climbing hammer.
6 ice screws – not used.
2 pickets – not used.
Approach Notes:
We followe this topo:
http://kurthicks.com/2012/02/18/snoqualmie-mountain-nw-face-topo/
Deep snow on approach.
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Thanks!
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Hello,
We want to climb Dragontail Backbone Ridge or Serpentine Arete this weekend. Has anybody climbed it recently? I wonder if there is any snow on approach/descend there? TR from 6/20 mention "very short section of hard snow in the morning". Maybe it's all gone now and we don't need ice axes or crampons.
Thanks,
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Good job sisters! Where are the pictures?
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Trip: Cutthroat Peak - Cauthron – Wilson
Date: 4/24/2015
Trip Report:
I with my friend Gerry climbed Cutthroat Peak Cauthron – Wilson route on Saturday April 18th 2015.
We were inspired by this trip report
and an excellent weather forecast. We started from Redmond at 6 pm on Friday and arrived at Blue Lake trailhead at 9:30 pm. We slept in Gerry’s mini-van. Our alarm did not go on in the morning and we got up late at 5 am. We started hiking back on highway 20 at 6 am. It was already light and finding the way was easier. We also could enjoy the marvelous views of North Cascades.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/010_Cutthroat_Peak.JPG[/img]
We took our way climbing the slopes eastwards of the obvious drainage on the south side of Cutthroat Peak. The snowpack was hard in the forest. We did not take our snowshoes. Hiking towards east side of the mountain we gained a basin and soon came to a view of our route. We were at the beginning of the couloir at 7:40 am.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/110_Entrance_in_the_couloir.JPG[/img]
As sun rose higher the snow began softened and we had to hurry. We put on our crampons and harnesses and started climbing. We soloed the beginning of the couloir, kicking steps in the snow. We continued solo over small ice steps.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/160_Soloing_ice_steps.JPG[/img]
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/161.jpg[/img]
A small spindrift avalanche came on us from above. I got only powder and Gerry was hit by some harder staff on his helmet.
Soon we came to the corner pitch. Here we roped up and I took the lead.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/171_Alex_leading_the_coner.jpg[/img]
The ice was fat enough for the tools, but soft and covered with slush soaked with water. The screws were useless here and I tried to find rock protection on the left side of the corner. The protection was not good, mostly thin cracks. I managed to put 2 pins and one small nut. Fortunately the climbing was not difficult. After half of a pitch or so the angle lowered and the pro became better. I spotted a good crack and a stance at the left side of the couloir and made a belay.
From our spot we could see the summit and a potential more direct way to it to the left. So instead of continuing the couloir we decided to traverse snow slopes by this effectively climbing a variation of the route.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/181.jpg[/img]
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/210.JPG[/img]
After 2 more pitches of snow climbing we came to a moat and a tree above it. Gerry took the lead and climbed a spicy pitch on slabs covered with soft snow with some drytooling and marginal protection. That was the real crux of the climb.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/240_Gerry_leading_final_pitch.JPG[/img]
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/243.jpg[/img]
We summited at noon.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/301.jpg[/img]
We found an anchor on a rock horn, most likely left by previous party and rappelled down the obvious snow gully. After a double rope rappel there was another anchor and we could see the next gully going to north-west direction. That was probably a descend way down West ridge. However, we decided to go down the East Buttress instead. We hoped that it would be more direct way and we could find existing rappel stations. We climbed a little bit up the next gully to gain the south side of the mountain.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/330_Way_down_West_ridge_Schema.JPG[/img]
We rappelled South Buttress in 4 double-rope rappels. We did not find any existing anchors; they were still buried under the snow. Twice our rope was stuck and we had to retrieve it.
We gained a southern corniced ridge.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/380_Southern_ridge.JPG[/img]
There was a snow gully on the west side of it and an existing rappel anchor. Descend to the east side looked much steeper. We did not leave any gear on the approach and did not have to come back to our tracks, so we decided to descend to the west. After a single rope rappel we downclimbed snow slopes and descended to a highway further to the west from the place where we started.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_04_18_Cutthroat_Peak/410_Southern_Buttress_Way_down.JPG[/img]
Our way in red and probable West ridge descend in orange.
We came to the car at 7 pm. Maybe we should take a way down West ridge, but we don’t know for sure if it was much easier or not.
We were back at home at 11 pm. Good day! My first climb at Washington Pass area!
Note: The ice in the corner will probably soon melt away this season.
Gear Notes:
2 ice tools each
2 half ropes
5 ice screws – not used
Set of nuts – used some
5 pins – used 2
Cams .4”-2” Used some, we wish we had smaller sizes
Some slings
Webbing, rappel rings for rappel
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Trip: Dragontail Peak - NE couloir
Date: 3/1/2015
Trip Report:
We decided to climb Dragontail North East couloir on a weekend February 28th – March 1st 2015. My friend Gerry had hiked over Asgard Pass 2 weeks before and made some pictures. Both of us already have climbed Triple Couloir and we wanted to try nearby North East couloir described in Fred Beckey book. We started our approach on Saturday at 11am from 8 mile parking lot. Gerry hiked with his snowshoes on and I left mine at home expecting snowpack to be thin. It could be my mistake, because it snowed last days and there was a fresh layer of snow on a trail. Luckily for me many climbers trod a good boot pack to Colchuck Lake.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/04_Trail_to_Colchuck_Lake.JPG[/img]
We camped at the south side of solid frozen Colchuck Lake.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/07_Dragontail_peak_and_Colchuck_peak.JPG[/img]
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/10_Camp.jpg[/img]
Next day we started around 5.30am. The start of North East couloir is about half way towards Asgard Pass. We decided to take a straight line in the direction of the pass through the bushes. Maybe we should keep to the right closer to Dragontail Peak walls. Our way was not pleasant bushwhacking and snow covered boulder hopping.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/12_Colchucl_Lake_in_the_morning.JPG[/img]
Near the couloir entrance the snow became deep; probably there were some slides recently. We stopped to look at our way and discuss the potential avalanche danger. From our spot we could clearly see the mixed pitch at the top. The rock slopes on the sides of the couloir looked more or less clean and it was not much avalanche danger from there.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/14_NE_couloir.JPG[/img]
We decided to enter the couloir and evaluate the snow cover. In the beginning the snow was hard and we decided to go on unroped.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/15_Entering_couloir.JPG[/img]
After one pitch distance or so the angle lowered and the snow became deep again. We started sinking to our knees, then to our hips, then to our waists.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/17_Deep_snow.jpg[/img]
We moved on breaking trail in turns. The progress was very slow. We tried to take path to the left close to the rock wall. That helped, the snow cover was shallower near the rock and we moved faster.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/18.JPG[/img]
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/19_Sasha_following.jpg[/img]
At 10am we came to the mixed pitch. We roped up and I started climbing the gully.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/24_Beginning_of_the_mixed_pitch.JPG[/img]
The climbing itself was not so bad – thin ice, rock and some snow. The protection however was marginal. The rock on the sides was pretty loose and held no features, just some thin cracks. I managed to put 2 pins and one short screw only to the half.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/27.JPG[/img]
I climbed to the broken corner with a slab on a right which had to be a crux of the route. I put one yellow tcu in a questionably looking crack and gave it a try. The rock was horribly loose in the corner - what looked like holds crumbled in my hands when I tried to grab them. I detached several rocks and one laptop-size block. I howled “rock” - luckily Gerry belayed from a well-protected spot. I made several attempts, but always stopped, being afraid to commit without handholds and with the runout and the danger of bad fall. Then I tried to use thin verglass of ice in the inner part of the corner. It was probably less than an inch, but enough for my tools to make a purchase and hold my weight. I committed and made a belay on a ridge.
Gerry climbed the pitch quickly...
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/27_Corner.jpg[/img]
and continued on a snow ramp. I followed him on a fun traverse and took a lead again before the notch.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/32.JPG[/img]
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/33_The_notch.JPG[/img]
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/34.JPG[/img]
Some drytooling moves brought us to the notch.
From the notch we observed the North East ridge. It looked like 5-ish grade rock at the beginning, but we didn’t know what we would have further. It was already 1:30pm and we decided that we don’t have enough time to climb the ridge to the summit and go all the way back to the car. We lost too much time wallowing in the snow and climbing the mixed pitch. 2 half-rope rappels brought us to the snow slopes. We didn’t find good stations and made our own.
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/35_Rappel.JPG[/img]
Descend to Asgard pass and to the Colchuck lake was straightforward. We came back to our camp at 4pm and to the car at 8:30pm. Another good weekend in Cascades!
[img:center]http://www.gorobets.com/Images/2015_Albums/2015_02_28_Dragontail_NE_couloir/38_NE_couloir_line.jpg[/img]
Gear Notes:
1 rope
2 ice tools each
5 ice screws – used 1
2 pickets – didn’t use
Rock gear up to #1 – used yellow tcu and Camalot# 1
5 pitons – used 2
Webbing and rappel rings to make rappel stations
Approach Notes:
Snowshoes might be helpful
[TR] Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully 5/6/2017
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Trip: Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully
Date: 5/6/2017
Trip Report:
We climbed Mount Hood Right Gully on a weekend 6-7 Mat 2017. The weather was very promising at last. As I have to drive to from Seattle to Portland to join my friends Oleg and Ananstasia, I insisted that we go with approach to have a sleep before climb. We started fom Tilly Jane parking lot at 1:20 PM on Saturday. Originally we planned to camp on an Elliot Glacier. However when qwe arrived at Cooper Spur Shelter, we encountered strong and cold wind and decided that it is not worth to hike further up. We made our camp in a shade of the shelter.
Next morning we started at 3:15 AM. The wind was still strong and cold. Anastasia got cold feet and decided to turn back. We continued with Oleg. We arrived at the bergshrund at 7 AM and traversed across the right side of the bergshrund.
After the bergshrund we found a good consolidated neve. We continued by simul-climbing on front points. First step was a short WI2 section. Then long section of simul-climbing again. Second step was also short and easy.
More front-pointing followed and we topped the summit at 11:10 AM.
To get back to our came we decided to descend Sunshine route. We downclimbed it and bypassed many crevasses arriving at camp at 4 PM and back to car at 6:30 PM. Very mellow conditions now on North Face. Hard neve makes good exercise for calves.
Gear Notes:
60 m ropes
2 ice tools each
2 pickets
2 screws
Several slings
Approach Notes:
We did not use flotation, but with warmer temperatures snow can be softer and flotation might be needed.