Alex789
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Posts posted by Alex789
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Trip: Mount Rainier - Central Mowich Face
Trip Date: 06/04/2023
Trip Report:https://www.gorobets.com/TRs/Rainier_Central_Mowich_Face_2023_06_04.html
Gear Notes:
- one 8.2 mm 60 m rope
- 2 technical tools each
- 2 pickets
- did not use ice screws
Approach Notes:
No flotation was needed-
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Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloir
Trip Date: 05/07/2023
Trip Report:https://www.gorobets.com/TRs/Triple_Couloir_2023_05_07.htm
Gear Notes:
- 2 half ropes 60 m
- A pair of ice tools each
- 6 screw stubbies. Used 1
- 2 pickets
- Single rock rack from #.2 to #2
- 10 alpine draws
- Some pitons, nuts, BD spectre
Approach Notes:
No flotation is needed -
That was nice day, ha!
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Fantastic!
Great work and great report.
Congratulations! -
Trip: Mount Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir
Trip Date: 04/24/2022
Trip Report:http://gorobets.com/TRs/Stuart_Glacier_Couloir_2022_04_24.htm
Gear Notes:
1 single ropes 60 m A pair of ice tools each 2 short screws on ice steps 2 pickets to belay 1st ice step Single rock rack from #.3 to #3 Carried pitons, nuts, smaller cams, but not used
Approach Notes:
Used snowshoes-
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Trip: Mount Hood - Elliot Headwall. Wallace - Olson
Trip Date: 02/13/2022
Trip Report:http://www.gorobets.com/TRs/Hood_Elliot_Headwall_2022_02_13.html
Gear Notes:
- 2 ropes 60 m x 8.2 mm
- A pair of ice tools each
- A single rack of cams from 0.2” to 3”. Used 2.
- A set of nuts. Not used.
- 4 pitons. Not used.
- BD Spectra. Not used.
- 9 ice screws. Used.
- 2 pickets. Used.
Approach Notes:
No flotation used.
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Trip: Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Moses Tooth - Ham and Eggs
Trip Date: 04/23/2021
Trip Report:http://www.gorobets.com/TRs/Ham_and_Eggs_2021_04_23.html
Gear Notes:
- 2 ropes 60 m x 8.2 mm.
- A pair of ice tools each.
- 8 ice screws.
- 4 pickets.
- A set of cams from 0.2” to 3”.
- A set of nuts. Not used.
- 4 pitons. Not used.
- BD Spectra. Not used.
- V thread cord. Not used.
- Webbing for rappel. Not used.
Approach Notes:
From Root Canal air strip ascend snow slopes.-
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Nice work!
I'm glad our bootpack and wands were useful
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Fantastic! This mountain is so-ooo impressive in a good winter conditions. Rare view. Proud of fellow Seattle climbers!
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Nice work!
This one is still on my list... -
Is there snow/ice on descend from Dragontail?
Thanks, -
Fantastic! Guys, your trip reports give me great motivation to climb. And great pictures. Which camera did you use?
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DPS: First ascend - great! It's a pity that your route is not yet in any guidebook.
This picture:
https://kurthicks.com/2012/02/18/snoqualmie-mountain-nw-face-topo/
is all we have. -
Trip: Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully
Trip Date: 03/15/2020
Trip Report:http://www.gorobets.com/New_York_Gully_2020_03_25.html
Gear Notes:
2 half ropes 2 pairs of tools per climber A set of cams from 0.2” to 3” wth doubles in small range. Used most of them. A set of nuts. Not used. 10 runners. We should take 12 in retrospective. I almost run out of runners on pitch 3. 4 pitons. Used 1. BD Spectra. Used. 4 ice screws – not used. 2 pickets –1 would be enough.
Approach Notes:
No flotation used.-
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Used only 2 weekends
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Wow! Looks much drier than it was when we climbed it:
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Looking for partners for the following objectives:
North Early Winters Spire - Early Winters CouloirMount Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir
Mount Rainier - Mowich Face or Ptarmigan Ridge
or if you have other good suggestions
Have all gear, experience.
Who is interested, better text me: 425-691-9793
Cheers,
alex -
Howdy!
Are you seeking technical partners for this period of time only? Do you live in Northwest or visiting, may I ask? -
Taylorag06, "Pucker Junkie" - yes, I do want to commit to Ruth trip in Spring 2018.
There is an excellent TR:I believe people climb Ham & Eggs in April. If you are interested, let's talk. Email me directly at alexander@gorobets.com or text: 425-691-9793
P.S. Though I've climbed Denali, I don't think I am ready for Cassin.
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TR fixed, thanks!
I see you renamed "Trip Reports" to "Route Reports" and moved it to a Forum. Then remove the dysfunctional button "Trip Reports" in the very end of the main page. Still messing "Last 24 hours". Maybe it was moved somewhere? -
What happened with the site?
Trip reports button does not work.
Where is "last 24 hours"?
My trip reports on my profile all screwed up.
WTF? Are we all relocating on Facebook?
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Hey guys,
I am interested in Ruth.
Ham & Egss !!!
No guide.
I don't think it's possible to save on a flight to a glacier.
If moving forward with a plan, Email me directly on alexander@gorobets.com
Super excited!
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Hi Val,
I've just recently read your TR on Burgundy&Chianti from 2013. Nice lob! I would be happy to climb with you one day. Most likely I am busy until the middle of July, but after no plans yet. If you need a partner, feel free to contact me. My cell# 425-691-9793. I can lead trad 5.9-5.10a.
Cheers,
Alex
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Trip: Colfax Peak - Cosley-Houston
Date: 5/26/2017
Trip Report:
My friend Gerry and I climbed Colfax Peak, Cosley-Houston route last Saturday, May 20. We left Seattle on Friday evening to save time and try to be the first on a route. The road to Heliotrope Ridge was free of snow till mile 6.6. There were many cars at the end of the clear road. We parked at the camping area on the right side. Many more cars came at night.
We started approach at 4 am. The trail to Heliotrope Ridge was well-beaten and straightforward. The weather was perfect. We took snowshoes for approach that proved to be a smart decision. The snow in the woods was firm, but became soft on Coleman glacier and we put our snowshoes on.
We roped up on a glacier. After some time we could see our mountain. Both routes - Polish route and our Cosley-Houston looked in fat shape. Luckily we were the first party on it.
We crossed the bergshrund on the left side without any problem. When we came to the first crux pillar we found very rotten ice in the beginning of it. We hesitated, but decided to give it a try. Gerry belayed me on a picket. First 2 meters the ice was horrible, but then I found some ice flow on a right side and managed to put a screw. At this time I realized that I was climbing with my pack on and a second rope in it. It was hard and the pitch was steeper than it looks. I descended and left my pack. Even without pack for me the pitch was pumpy and chandeleured ice made difficult feet. I think the pitch was 15 meters or so. I made a belay on a solid picket and took Gerry. The route now eased off and we simul-climbed further.
The second step was much easier - just about 2 meters. Again we used a belay on a pickets before and after the step. After the second step we mostly soloed the rest. Te snow conditions were pretty good with good kick steps and some fronpointing on neve.
We reached the summit at 1 PM.
I will give some description of the descend. Descend from the summit mostly follows the ridge towards mount Baker. Don't go to the left, there is heavilly crevassed area there. No rappel is necessary at this time, but be careful - there is a crevasse on a ridge crest. Bypass rime-covered buttress on a right side. After it go straight towards Mount Baker and join the descend from Colman-Deming route.
We were glad we carried over our snowshoes. In warm temperatures we would sink in the soft snow on Coleman glacier.
We came back to a car at 6 PM. Yet another good day!
Polish route
Upper pillar closeup
Cosley-Houston lower part
First pillar
Gerry follows
Second step
Obligatory summit picture
Gear Notes:
2 half ropes
2 ice tools each
8 ice screws
8 quickdraws
2 pickets
Approach Notes:
Skis or snowshoes needed
[TR] Illumination Rock - Skylight (though now it's skylight-less) 11/20/2023
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Strong work !!!