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Alex789

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Posts posted by Alex789


  1. Trip: Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully

    Trip Date: 03/15/2020

    Trip Report:

    http://www.gorobets.com/New_York_Gully_2020_03_25.html

    Gear Notes:
    2 half ropes 2 pairs of tools per climber A set of cams from 0.2” to 3” wth doubles in small range. Used most of them. A set of nuts. Not used. 10 runners. We should take 12 in retrospective. I almost run out of runners on pitch 3. 4 pitons. Used 1. BD Spectra. Used. 4 ice screws – not used. 2 pickets –1 would be enough.

    Approach Notes:
    No flotation used.
    • Like 1
    • Rawk on! 3

  2. TR fixed, thanks!
    I see you renamed "Trip Reports" to "Route Reports" and moved it to a Forum. Then remove the dysfunctional button "Trip Reports" in the very end of the main page. Still messing "Last 24 hours". Maybe it was moved somewhere?


  3. Hi Val,

    I've just recently read your TR on Burgundy&Chianti from 2013. Nice lob! I would be happy to climb with you one day. Most likely I am busy until the middle of July, but after no plans yet. If you need a partner, feel free to contact me. My cell# 425-691-9793. I can lead trad 5.9-5.10a.

    Cheers,

    Alex


  4. Trip: Colfax Peak - Cosley-Houston

     

    Date: 5/26/2017

     

    Trip Report:

    My friend Gerry and I climbed Colfax Peak, Cosley-Houston route last Saturday, May 20. We left Seattle on Friday evening to save time and try to be the first on a route. The road to Heliotrope Ridge was free of snow till mile 6.6. There were many cars at the end of the clear road. We parked at the camping area on the right side. Many more cars came at night.

    We started approach at 4 am. The trail to Heliotrope Ridge was well-beaten and straightforward. The weather was perfect. We took snowshoes for approach that proved to be a smart decision. The snow in the woods was firm, but became soft on Coleman glacier and we put our snowshoes on.

    We roped up on a glacier. After some time we could see our mountain. Both routes - Polish route and our Cosley-Houston looked in fat shape. Luckily we were the first party on it.

    We crossed the bergshrund on the left side without any problem. When we came to the first crux pillar we found very rotten ice in the beginning of it. We hesitated, but decided to give it a try. Gerry belayed me on a picket. First 2 meters the ice was horrible, but then I found some ice flow on a right side and managed to put a screw. At this time I realized that I was climbing with my pack on and a second rope in it. It was hard and the pitch was steeper than it looks. I descended and left my pack. Even without pack for me the pitch was pumpy and chandeleured ice made difficult feet. I think the pitch was 15 meters or so. I made a belay on a solid picket and took Gerry. The route now eased off and we simul-climbed further.

    The second step was much easier - just about 2 meters. Again we used a belay on a pickets before and after the step. After the second step we mostly soloed the rest. Te snow conditions were pretty good with good kick steps and some fronpointing on neve.

    We reached the summit at 1 PM.

    I will give some description of the descend. Descend from the summit mostly follows the ridge towards mount Baker. Don't go to the left, there is heavilly crevassed area there. No rappel is necessary at this time, but be careful - there is a crevasse on a ridge crest. Bypass rime-covered buttress on a right side. After it go straight towards Mount Baker and join the descend from Colman-Deming route.

    We were glad we carried over our snowshoes. In warm temperatures we would sink in the soft snow on Coleman glacier.

    We came back to a car at 6 PM. Yet another good day!

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    Polish route

     

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    Upper pillar closeup

     

    55_Cosley-Houston_lower_part.JPG

    Cosley-Houston lower part

     

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    First pillar

     

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    Gerry follows

     

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    Second step

     

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    Obligatory summit picture

     

    Gear Notes:

    2 half ropes

    2 ice tools each

    8 ice screws

    8 quickdraws

    2 pickets

     

    Approach Notes:

    Skis or snowshoes needed


  5. Trip: Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully

     

    Date: 5/6/2017

     

    Trip Report:

    We climbed Mount Hood Right Gully on a weekend 6-7 Mat 2017. The weather was very promising at last. As I have to drive to from Seattle to Portland to join my friends Oleg and Ananstasia, I insisted that we go with approach to have a sleep before climb. We started fom Tilly Jane parking lot at 1:20 PM on Saturday. Originally we planned to camp on an Elliot Glacier. However when qwe arrived at Cooper Spur Shelter, we encountered strong and cold wind and decided that it is not worth to hike further up. We made our camp in a shade of the shelter.

    05_Approach.jpg

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    Next morning we started at 3:15 AM. The wind was still strong and cold. Anastasia got cold feet and decided to turn back. We continued with Oleg. We arrived at the bergshrund at 7 AM and traversed across the right side of the bergshrund.

    25_Morning.jpg

    35_Tharevsing_over_bergshrund.jpg

    After the bergshrund we found a good consolidated neve. We continued by simul-climbing on front points. First step was a short WI2 section. Then long section of simul-climbing again. Second step was also short and easy.

    40_Simul_climbing.jpg

    45_2-ns_step.jpg

    More front-pointing followed and we topped the summit at 11:10 AM.

    50_Upper_pitches.jpg

    55_Oleg_and_Sasha_on_summit.jpg

    To get back to our came we decided to descend Sunshine route. We downclimbed it and bypassed many crevasses arriving at camp at 4 PM and back to car at 6:30 PM. Very mellow conditions now on North Face. Hard neve makes good exercise for calves.

     

    81_Downclimbing_Sunshine.JPG

     

    Gear Notes:

    60 m ropes

    2 ice tools each

    2 pickets

    2 screws

    Several slings

     

    Approach Notes:

    We did not use flotation, but with warmer temperatures snow can be softer and flotation might be needed.


  6. Trip: Colchuck Peak - NE couloir

     

    Date: 4/2/2017

     

    Trip Report:

    My friend Jesus and I climbed Colchuck Peak NE couloir last weekend. The road to the Stuart Lake trailhead is closed and I expect it to be opened later this season as there is a lot of snow in Mountaineering Creek. We camped at the Colchuck Lake still frozen solid.

    We left our tent at 4:45. The weather was windy and it snowed.

    The climbing was straightforward with good snow to kick steps. The bergshrund posed no problems. We climbed unroped and Jesus carried our rope in a pack as an exercise. We took left gully entrance and the climbing steepened. We came to a large overhanging cornice and could not see any logical exit. We carried our avalanche kits with us and Jesus told: "We have shovels, why don't we just punch a hole in it?" So we did. Almost 2 hours of digging and we made a good tunnel to escape on top of the ridge.

    Proud of our work, we continued to the summit.

    Currently the cornice is pretty solid, but with warming temperatures in spring it might collapse one day.

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    Gear Notes:

    1 60m rope

    2 ice tools - each

    3 ice screws - not used

    3 pickets - used 2

    Small rock rack - not used

    Several slings - used 2 for pickets

    Avi kits - each, including snow shovels

     

    Approach Notes:

    A lot of snow, flotation is needed


  7. Hi Martin,

     

    I accidentally came across your post. You mentioned possible Alaska plans and I always try to keep am eye on climbers with desire to tackle bigger mountains. We can climb something locally and discuss some future plans. Locally I am open to all possible objectives: rock, ice, alpine. I live in Redmond.

     

    Cheers,

    Alex


  8. I am planning to attempt Cho Oyu - 8000 meter peak in Himalaya.

    I want to climb standard route from Tibet side without guides. Spring 2017 is best for me, but I can probably wait for Fall if necessary. I am looking for solid climbing partners for this expedition.

     

    Some most important detail first:

    - Time - 6 weeks.

    - Start - beginning of April or end of August

    - Logistic - "base package" from some company-outfitter (have yet to choose)

    - Cost - around 10,000 USD, probably more

    - Experience - High altitude (Denali, Aconcagua, any 7000 m peak)

     

    If interested - reply, PM,

    Text: 425-691-9793

    Or Email: alexander@gorobets.com

     

    All the best,

    Alex

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