SeanO

Great effort, thanks for posting!

Thanks for posting the report, Joe. Crazy story and a great read. Any pictures? Also a good story as well ScaredSilly -- I think you made the right choice on bailing. For pedestrian climbers like myself, it boggles the mind that people have even attempted, let alone successfully climbed the Willis Wall.

Great TR and pictures! Ditto on mountainsloth's question. I'm also wondering how much skiing there is later in the season when things melt out a bit.

Incredible trip, and amazing pictures. Thanks for posting!

Hey there, welcome to CC. It sounds like you're pretty well prepared given your background in rock/ice climbing and the glacier travel/crevasse course. The DC in July+ is usually a well-trodden path, but then you can have odd years like last year where there was a steep section of ice that made things more complicated. You may want to try a less aggressive objective for your first glacier climb, but with your background you'd probably be fine. The only thing I'd say you should consider is to be on a rope team of 3. If you're going to attempt it with just your wife, make sure you've practiced crevasse rescue with a 2 man team. It's a lot more difficult. A third person adds a significant safety margin if the route is heavily crevassed. If you're coming out here just to climb Rainier, give yourself as much time as possible (a week or more). The weather isn't always good even in July/August. Have fun!

Agree with DPS and Feck. My first attempt on Rainier was only after doing one climbing trip, and not on a glacier. Looking back, I was woefully unprepared and when we woke up that morning at Muir, I knew I had made a mistake, even if my partner was experienced. I had no business up there and I knew it, no matter bad I wanted it, the shape I was in, and my years of backpacking, etc. The following year I had graduated from a climbing course, read books, and had more than a few climbs under my belt. Made a huge difference and I had confidence that I knew all the important stuff to be successful and not kill myself or teammates. Ended up doing two summits within a few weeks. Frank: read Freedom of the Hills, do a few non-glacier objectives where you can practice your skills (and knots like DPS suggested), and be sure to spend a good chunk of time on crevasse rescue. Mt. Adams is a great learning objective. If you can demonstrate that you know how to tie the knots, perform rescue, and arrest yourself, you'll find it much easier to find a group if you don't want to go guided.

Olyclimber, thanks for your reply. I work in software and understand your hesitancy to jump ship and migrate to a new platform. It's simply a lot of work and there are lots of choices to make. Doing a quick search, there's got to be something better than a phpBB responsive theme (the top results)... at least I'd hope that we've evolved beyond that by now. CC definitely has its place and I appreciate the conversation here, even when it deviates a bit. Thanks for your and Jon's work!

I was a lurker for years, and I've been a member for only a couple years. Was recently having a conversation with some fellow mediocre climbers, and here are some thoughts: 1) User experience: the forums need responsive design to handle mobile and tablet viewing. A mobile app isn't necessary if the site design is responsive, and most people won't use a mobile app. Need to migrate from UBB sooner rather than later to stem the death of the site. Main landing page of the site is great with new redesign, but needs the same applied to the forums. 2) Insider club. Spray overflowing into reasonable conversations, perception of getting criticized for asking questions or posting lame TRs of simple climbs. Old boys club. 3) "Competitors" have a few advantages, whether its: more general scope, better user experience, more welcoming to noobs, wider reach, etc: summitpost.org, mountainproject.com, TGR (not noob friendly though), nwhikers.net (more friendly/inviting environment), not to mention blogs, social media, etc. I might even get criticized for suggesting these places are better in some regards, which would just reaffirm #2. I like CC and will still visit here occasionally, but I think the above are valid reasons.

At Mt. Baker on the Easton route, we got a heavy dose of sulfur near the edge of Sherman Crater right before you start up the Roman Wall. Hood would certainly be easier to access.

Skis sold, BD Raven 60cm axe added. Prices reduced on remaining items.

MH shell, helmet, and Mammut puffy sold. Prices reduced on remaining items.

Bump. Rab puffy sold, couple items pending.

PM me if you're interested. PENDING SALE - Black Diamond Raven 60cm, $40 shipped or $35 local Very good condition and very lightly used; pick and spike have just minor scratches. Used on one Rainier climb. Preferred over the Raven Pro because the pick is 3/4" longer. Sherpa Raajen Jacket (Primaloft One 200g), Medium, Red/Black, $80 shipped or $75 local Very good condition; been on 4 trips, stored on a hanger in my closet the rest of the time. Only flaw is a small nick (less than 1/4”) on the elbow area during a climb, patched with matching gear tape. Though a medium, it’s sized like a large and fits like a belay jacket. And yes, 200g of Primaloft One evenly distributed throughout the arms, hood, and body - I confirmed it with Sherpa before I bought. Basically a warmer last-gen Das Parka with all the same features (including two large mesh inner pockets, see picture), but it only has one zipper, which was never a problem. Weight: 27.5oz on my scale. North Face Freedom Shell Ski Pants, Gray, Large, $20 Good condition; ~4 years old and have a few small tears near the pant cuffs (~.75”). http://www.rei.com/product/853599/the-north-face-freedom-shell-pants-mens

PM sent

Fixed his photo links because I needed the beta

I played around with the easy slider and my opinion is that it slides too easily and is difficult to stow at the top of the axe. Ended up buying a pair of Sum'Tec axes instead. Watch this video at the 3 minute mark (the last 30 secs of the vid) and you'll see how it slides down on the axe in the demonstration, and he has to annoyingly pull it back up and hold it.

Do you have any pictures? Thanks for the update on conditions.

Cool trip and a well-written TR!

Still looking. Anyone?

Bump!

I was at Baker last weekend and we top-roped the Pan Dome icefall. It was in good condition, I would recommend it for getting on some decent ice. You will need to either climb to the top (almost a full pitch) or rap from above. If you do top rope it, you'll need two ropes.

Thanks for the recommendations, I think I'll check out the Quadrants. Anyone know someone selling a used pair at 28.5?

SOLD

Sent you a PM.

Does BD make wider AT boots in general then? I'll check out both, thank you.