Seamstress

I was away on a cycling trip, uncoonected to the world for a few days. I just learned about this. Climbed this route the year before. I have not seen the details, just the route, the reported rockfall, the young man's name. Always a reminder that objective dangers abound in this sport.

Somehow my La Sportiva Mythos shoes were not attached to my pack when I decided to go climbing. It has probably been a month since our last trip out to Far Side, and the last place I remember having those beat up shoes. They have been resoled twice, but are so comfy. I also think I had them on a nice gold attache biner - but I could be mistaken by that. Now I am painfully breaking in a new pair of shoes. If you picked up my shoes, let me know. We checked the cliff on our way out to the darkest regions of the Gifford this past weekend. They were nowhere in sight. Thanks

On my list!! TFPU

Note: We live on the other side of the river so we can buy more climbing gear. Nicely done, gentlemen.

No snowshoes were necessary for the back of the pack. My buddy went up early and pounded in some steps. The freezing level is dropping Friday - Sunday, so the snow will get crispier. Fluff does not exist right now.

Trip: St. Helens - Worm Flows Date: 5/11/2014 Trip Report: 2014 Mother’s Day It is Mother’s Day, so I am going to visit my mother, Helen, who left this world in 1999. In the hours it takes to climb up and down St. Helens, there is plenty of time to reflect on my mother, and think about my own children. Of course, the fashion parade and festive atmosphere make this a fun day. Even though I was thoroughly trashed from a long trail run on Saturday, the climb was still on. The excuse to go slow and savor actually added to the experience. The parking lot and side of the road was full at 8:00 AM. There were a couple of spaces in the overflow lot, way back near the road barricade. So everyone must have been an early riser to pay tribute to their moms – quite touching. This Mother’s Day had a wide assortment – of dresses, of weather (heat and a late afternoon snow shower), conditions. That is Spring on the mountain. The trail was mostly snow free up to about 4,300’. New to the celebration this year was the parapentes. While a visual treat to the mountaineers, this created a bit of a buzz among local officials. Their concern seemed to be largely for the welfare of the flyers. A small plane surveyed the area and found no evidence of distress. Several climbers asked if I was a mother and wished me a happy Mother’s Day. Thanks. I did see a mom having a special day. Her kids asked what she wanted to do for the day expecting that her reply would be brunch. They happily accompanied her on the climb, creating a lifetime memory. As I sat on the summit and watched them approach, it was quite moment. I did not hear an official count of climbers this year. There were over 450 cars reported in the area. While there were two climbers rescued last year, there were no rescue calls this year. Gear Notes: On this day, glitter, feathers, or tutus are expected. Hats get bonus points. Approach Notes: Swift Trail nearly melted out

Nice. I was there in September - and cut my teeth years ago on NH's granite. I recognize The Book, Recompense, They Died Lauighing, Ethereal Crack (maybe), Upper Refuse, ...Doesn't get better than Fall in NH.

The road to Climbers Bivvy is not closed due to the federal funding crisis. However, snow cah affect access to Climbers Bivvy. THe bathrooms are locked. It's like winter - you can acess the forest and won't get any services. The permit fee isn't waived. You just get less in services.

Sandy Headwall. Saw the choppers all day, and then they departed. We figured that they ran out of places to look or spotted him. Sheriff's report says the rope, pickett, and body are at 8,400' on the Sandy.

The snow conditions of the day dictate what you need. I would not plan on curving around Crater Rock without an ice ax as it can be steep alongside. By family, do you mean very young kids? If so, then you will want the extra security of a line. While the climb on Mt. Hood seems "short" in miles and vertical gain, it is somewhat steeper and has a bit of an altitude component. As a family event, I would recommend St. Helens or even a Gorge hike as a good alternative. Yes, St. Helens permits are basically gone, but see the permit exchange - you can score a permit during your visit. Dog Mountain, Table Mountain, Hamilton are all family alternatives that have some exposure, great views, but less chance of rock and ice fall. Another option is to do the "hike" to Camp Muir on Rainier.

I will send this TR to Anne and Matt. The CT crew are fine folks. Great job. I'll never forget summitting Rainier on my 50th birthday in shirtsleeves weather. I was nervous all day hoping that you all knew that the winds were coming in.

Last weekend - yes. Probably no for this weekend. 100 people per day pound in the route quite nicely. Be on trail by 7:00, and it should be OK. Of course, my perception is colored by the fact that I'm on the small side.

Light is right. Do it in a day - more fun with no load.

The road is generally awful. DOn't know how much snow is on the road. Have seen folks drive in fine, then get stuck on the soft snow/mud late in the day. Pound in the route guys. Can't get up there until July....

The 8300 road is not open yet. It may be about June 1st to open. There is still 3 feet of snow at 3,500'. THere are a couple of sections of the 8300 road down low that melt out slowly since it is heavily forested there. The spring skiing and glissading conditions will be very nice for the next few weeks. I would still take skis, but you will be packing them for a bit. Snow pack is average above 5,000 and lower than normal below. In the last week, the Swift Trail from Marble Mountain melted out from the parking lot up to the lower Silver Trail - roughly 1 mile. The winter route is showing lost of rock. Most people are opting to stay on snow for the climb, diving into the snow at 4,000'/ Adams will probably not be readily accessible until the late June. THe website has not been updated since mid April and notes that the South Spur Climb trailhead is still affected by the fire closure and provides an alternate approach. Have fun. The snow will probably run out early, but you're coming for the best spring/early summer conditions.

Trip: St. Helens Mother's Day - PLUS - Worms Flow Date: 5/12/2013 Trip Report: Many times I go to the mountain to be revel in a quiet day. Other days are social outings. Mother's Day on St. Helens is always an occasion. With a drizzly forecast for Saturday, I declared Mother's Day to be Saturday. I was pleasantly surprised to see the party also moved to Saturday. The route was in fine shape. I'm not the best skinner, so I threw the skis on my pack for the stepper section around 7,000'. The footsteps were firm and fabulous, even for my short legs. It was not a day for lounging on the top due to the breeze. It was touching to hear all the climbers making their Mom tribute videos or phone calls. This is my backyard. On the way down, a few folks seemed concerned about efficiently getting back. I made a few new friends and exited to the flat section at 4,000'. Time watch some of the parade. The plan was to get back to the parking lot at 3:00 where my husband would make one of my dreams come true - have a barbeque of my favorites waiting for me. I encountered one of the rangers, and we became aware of a possible incident on the mountain. Now the girl in the formal dress has to become rescuer. We asked a few climbers for information to make a plan, and quickly learned that 684 climbers results in a few walking wounded. We had four possible incidents on the mountain, plus two issues at the Ape Cave. Resources are now stretched very thin. Let me apologize and properly thank all the folks who helped out. The Mazamas stayed true to their mountaineering routes and improvised a system to begin moving their injured friend. We had a group of Mountaineers (I believe) who loaned us their sled to move the injured down below Chocolate Falls. A family had a rope and harnesses that they used to help their young child climb the mountain. This now became the system for moving the injured on a steeper slope. It was an awesome group of Rangers, Mount St. Helens Institute, Volcano Rescue Team and climbers joining forces to pack out two injured climbers. Without all those willing to help, the pack outs would have lasted long into the night, particularly with other resources diverted to the cave mission. This can be an amazing community of people, and I was very touched by the selflessness of people. All of your mothers would be very proud.

There are opportunities to summit year round if you hit the weather right. March is one of my favorite times as the days get longer. The descent goes quickly with skis or a snowboard. I like traveling light, so one day ascents. Then again, living in the neighborhood cuts out travel time. Glad you enjoyed the mountain. The views are special.

There are tickets left. Great show and great cause.

Radical Reels, the best adventure films from the Banff Mountain Film Festival, is coming to Battle Ground, Washington. This screening benefits the Volcano Rescue Team, the Mountain Rescue Team in SW Washington. Tickets are $15 and available at: RadReels Tickets Spread the word. We need sponsors and ticket sales. Thanks to the Battle Ground Cinema, right off SR 503, for hosting this event.

I jumped into buying into Redmond - making an offer 10% below asking price which was already 30% below original listing. I think the value is holding, and I won't move in for a couple of years. It came complete with great tennants. It is costing me $0 to lock in the property I want - near Smith and Bachelor. Know what you want, what you can afford. Housing is a tough investment if you don't want to live there.

These are still in the original cellophane. I skied another pair in the back country. Nice edge and floats well. Asking $200. Original price $650. You can have these under the tree or ready for the next big storm.

Mine is on its way.....

As I sit back today, there are factors I could have looked at closely to help understand what happened more clearly. However, I was consumed by trying to make the best decisions about caring for him until the paramedics arrived. I have wondered about the ultra conservative approach I used nor not moving him versus a choice of moving him for greater comfort or expediting transport. I asked the paramedics in my unit about the choices made, and they were helpful in processing the situation. As a climber, I, too, would like to understand how the accident unfolded and what could have mitigated his injuries. It was a long fall. His injuries on the surface didn't reflect the long distance of the fall, so somehow the forces were mitigated. Could a helmet reduce the head trauma that he had, probably. So many factors went right for him to be alive and lucid given the height fallen. I am intensely curious about all those factors that I chose not to look at on that day. Still wishing I knew how he is doing.

I was so happy to see so many willing hands and so much cooperation. When an accident happens on my own turf, I get news at the next meeting regarding the outcome. I hope he is doing well. We also had a fatality in our area a short time ago, and 21 different mountaineers with no medical training performed CPR on a man at altitude for an hour until a paramedic could be flown in. I wish that outcome was different, but that kind of response by the climbing community is awesome and unknown. The general public sees us as demented and uncaring folks who will ignore the suffering of another to achieve our personal goal. We have seen evidence to the contrary.

No helmet. I was more focused on the details of his medical condition than anlyzing the climbing accident. He had a couple of pieces still in the route. His last piece was a wire, not tested. I don't know if he fell while clipping or if that piece pulled. He mentioned something about his fingers being stuck, so there was trouble with the process of protecting. He has been climbing for a year and a half.