PuckerJunkie
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Posts posted by PuckerJunkie
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Heading up there in a few hours. If you don't hear from me again, just assume the Coleman got us
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Anybody want to buy some tricams?
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Nice work homie!
We were on NF a few days prior with similar, excellent ice conditions!!
2 weeks before that I tried to get up DKH and it was completely bare. Just shitty rock.
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Yeah, no fucking guides... err unless they just need a solid partner:)
If our goals and skill levels align, I am also looking for 2018 Denali/Ruth partners.
Yeah, Ham and Eggs, but also want to get up high, Cassin ideally.
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If our goals and skill levels align, I am also looking for 2018 Denali partners.
I am planning to take two weeks off sometime in June depending of how the weather between now and then. Ideally a west buttress or west rib acclimatization hike will lead to a Cassin attempt. Backup plan could be lower elevation Ruth Gorge objectives.
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Camp Pulse Helmet $30
Size: L
Color: Red
Condition: Perfect, only used on 2-3 climbs, never been hit
Petzl Ecrin Roc Helmet $20
Size: L
Color: Red
Condition: Good, 10-20 crag days, never been hit
OR Expedition Crocodile Gaiters $30
Size: L
Color: Black
Condition: Perfect, only used on 2-3 climbs
OR Crocodile Gaiters $25
Size: L
Color: Red
Condition: Perfect, never used
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Anyone want to join me?
Alex
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Yes, this is happening tomorrow (7/21) at 6pm at RB. 3 of us so far, all are welcome!
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Let's do it. I'll pm you my number.
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Texted you.
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Great pics! Especially that misty one with the climber standing behind the knife ridge!! (6th one down)
This route is so fucking awesome!!
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I make no judgement on homeless eating the neighborhood pets, there but the grace of the good lord go I. I'm just saying....it's a "SPECIAL" place.
Hahaaa!
Thanks for all the excellent beta!!
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Looking for a partner for alpine on Sat and Sun... My route choices would be Jeff Park Glacier, Adams Glacier, Hood NF with Sunshine or Cooper Spur as a backup if the gullies are out, Casaval Ridge... Or any suggestions you might have.
It looks like anything farther north will have iffy weather.
Alex
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You find a partner for Jeff, E-bum?
I am still asking around off-line but I am sure an odd-numbered group will be fine for this route.
Alex
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If I have a few days to plan ahead, I can make most weekday evenings work... I'll throw out next Wednesday 7/20 for the hell of it.
I don't know Rocky Butte at all. I went once, found a dingy rap down off of some fixed anchors, and then ended up leaving without climbing because nothing looked fun.
Given the size of this thread, there must be some decent dry-tooling spots...
Can anyone advise? Are there any other good spots near town that we won't get lynched for climbing in crampons? I imaging some off-route lines at Ozone might work...
Maybe if we get some pics up of a smaller weekday sesh there will be more interest for larger weekend excursion down the line...
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Nice work, you guys had a great day, really great pics! If I can find a partner, I think I might take a crack at this route this weekend!
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I'm down. When?
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Wow, these pics are spectacular! You shouldn't minimize the effort. Any Denali summit qualifies as badass!!
I hope I can put a trip like that together someday!
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How much of a time commitment does this end up being?
I just filled out the application and am about to submit it, but if it ends up requiring more time than I can give, I don't want to take someone else's spot.
Also, does it help to get some kind of endorsement from existing members?
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Trip Report:
Been canvassing for partners on cc.com and got lucky with Michael (@Mikhail). We took a shot at Reid HW betting that recent weather would leave us some ice in the gullies. I have been told that this late in the season they might be empty. Turns out, they were all full of snow.
We had a great day of forgiving snow conditions. A fun ice step variation at the top of the first gully spiced things up for us!
We met up at T-line around midnight on Saturday morning and embarked on our SS slog up to the saddle. We descended onto the Reid around daybreak. Schrund was mostly closed. The crevasse under Leutholds was only slightly open.
Coming up on the schrund, the mountain cast an amazing shadow in the early morning light.
Michael leads the schrund crossing. There was a massive snow bridge right in the middle requiring only a step-over where it was breaking away.
Heading up above the schrund, the first gully looms to the left.
Stoked to be on steep snow!
Michael coming up the first gully. Pretty sure I wasn't supposed to post this one lest his wife see it. Sorry.
No ice in the lower part of the first gully; however at the top, we came to this 50' AI4 step to the right. We brought the pro, so we decided to have a go at it. Not sure if these placements would have blown, but the picket we placed as an anchor would have stopped a freight train. This step can be skipped by staying on the snow to the left of this rock bulge. Mad props to my partner for following this in glacier crampons and leashed BD venoms, old school what what!
Traversing over the snow rib.
Michael under the second gully.
The second gully was full of snow. The last time I was here, we had a WI3/4 step at the top, this time just short 20' AI2/3 somewhere in the middle.
The last short gully was maybe 50' of AI3+ and rimy at the top.
Summit, so metal!
Gear Notes:
We used 5 or so screws and one picket to protect the ice step.
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And if you say anything to the presumed leader, no matter how discretely, you always get this, "fuck off, I know what I'm doing" look, followed by a high-chinned, "Thanks, we're good!". And if you're lucky, you might even get a lecture on how climbing un-roped is for cowboys and wingnuts.
Though I may have made that face once or twice myself while doing something stupid...
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The lower Nisqually was super mellow the few times I've been on it. Both times was late season with everything open and if you just shoot directly across to that snow gully, they will all likely be step-overs. Going across a little higher will be more fun though.
In any case, you'll be able to see your route very clearly from the ridge and make an informed decision then.
Keep in mind though, when deciding whether or not to rope up, its always important properly estimate the badass point penalty you may incur:)
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Thanks mike1! This is very helpful.
Pullup / Climbing Training Rack
in The Yard Sale
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This is free. Just come get it in Ballard.
It's currently in 3 pieces, the 4x8 piece of 3/4" plywood and the 2 supports. There is a black rubber mat that fits the bottom as well.
If you want it, you gotta take all the pieces. I cannot transport it for you.
I had built this for pull-ups and to eventually add rock and ice climbing holds etc on it. It's solid enough to be the base of a much higher extension, which was my original plan. It won't fit in my current apt so need to get rid of it.