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billyum

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About billyum

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  • Birthday 06/03/1985
  1. vantage toilet (at least as of June 20th..)

    Not trying to troll or jump into too much cross-spray, but on the routes you show in the picture of the feathers, how would you protect those routes if you were there for the first time? I know there are a few cracks next to one or two of those routes you could follow, but having climbed there a few weeks back I don't remember there being much good placement. Or are you of the opinion that if it isn't protect-able then either free solo and down climb, or just climb elsewhere?
  2. Forbidden Peak - Alternate descent questions

    Thanks for the info, I'll be sure to do that.
  3. Forbidden Peak - Alternate descent questions

    Thanks for the info. Honestly though, I'm trying to avoid descending the boston basin, so once I did traverse the ledges I'd be left with a bit of a route finding pickle on getting to sahale and buckner without descending. I think since I'm trying to go to Buckner straight away traversing the glacier is probably preferable, but I was just unsure if there are any known rappel issues getting down to it. Thanks again!
  4. I'm looking at doing the torment-forbidden traverse next summer as part of a larger traverse/circuit of the region. None of the descent routes seem great, but I was thinking about just continuing the east ledges rappel down to Boston glacier (skip the ledges part) and then traversing the glacier south to the north east face of Boston. I was wondering if anyone had any beta on the ease/viability of just continuing the rappels. From the glacier I figure I can weave my way south and meet up with the approach for the north face of Buckner with a possible day trip to hit Sahale on the way.
  5. Wildlife of the cascades

    Awesome photos and spot on with the raven description; they make camp stories so much more fun.
  6. Mt Adams in the dark?

    I've never had trouble staying on the trail from cold springs in the dark. The trail itself is pretty clear, and where it is covered in snow it should have a serious boot track by now. There is a left turn you can make on the trail that is incorrect that can trip people up a bit, but familiarize yourself with the map and route and pay attention to the terrain versus what you expect and you should be fine. As for helmet, most people I've seen don't take one for the south side (which is what I assume you're doing). I've taken mine on the south side before though, so it is a matter of personal preference. There really aren't any terrain features that worry me about rock/ice fall, but I was always taught to pair a helmet with crampons. YMMV.
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