rpa

Princess Peak Monarch Icefield, BC

Just to clarify we did not to go to burgundy col, but the bench below the col. A lot of parties will camp here if the do not bivy at the col. With the amount of snow around the descent was very straightforward. We trended down and south with no downclimbing or frontpointing. Plunge stepping all the way.

Trip: Prusik Peak - South Face - Stanely Burgner Date: 6/17/2011 Trip Report: As there is a more recent TR for the west ridge I won't go into the details about the conditions for the approach(snow creek). The route was mostly dry. A little wet climbing through/under the chockstone and the last 15 feet of the final pitch. It was just minor seeping due to some residual snow, should be gone soon. First Pitch Chockstone Last Pitch

Trip: Juno Tower - Clean Break Date: 6/11/2011 Trip Report: I have used cascade climbers to check on route information and/or route conditions, but I have yet to contribute. This is my attempt and I hope it is useful to somebody. calfred and I climbed clean break on June 11, 2011. The approach up silver star creek took us @ 3 hours and we hit continuous snow around the first bench. The first two pitches were excellent. We had some route finding difficulties on pitch three (move right), but after we got ourselves on target the next few pitches went smoothly. After the 7th pitch we were pushed towards the left of the arete due to melting snow. (After the 5.9 pitch we went straight up instead of the 60 foot traverse) We were able to trend back right and finish up the last two/three pitches on route. There is/was snow on ledges which was a little timely and thought provocking, but nothing scary or unmanageable. (melting fast) Time on route @ 9.5 hours. We descended to the burgandy col bench, instead of wrapping back to the silver star drainage. We hit the trail for the rest of the descent to a a bike awaiting our shuttle. @ 3 hours. First Pitch Upper Route Gear Notes: No #4 needed; Approach shoes, no boots, if you don't mind soaking wet feet for the descent.