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Dave Jones

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About Dave Jones

  • Birthday 08/10/1967

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  • Homepage
    squamishclimbing.com
  • Occupation
    media
  • Location
    British Columbia

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  1. Rock fall danger!! BC Parks has closed (July 4th) access to the Lower Apron for climbs accessing the South Apron eg Diedre, Over the Rainbow, Sparrow, Sickle, Banana Peel, White Lightening, until they deal with this block. It is resting on a small tree where Over the Rainbow meets Sickle on OTR's 3rd pitch. Park Rangers have put signs warning climbers at the base of the Apron that the access trail and climbs are closed. check squamishclimbingfor updates.
  2. Head north for some great climbing, films and a little history. The Arcteryx Squamish Mountain Film Festival runs July 13-17. The festival line-up looks great - Jasmin Caton and Margo Talbot, Nina Caprez and Cory Richards. On Saturday, the final night, a special presentation by Ed Cooper to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the first ascent of the Grand Wall. There will probably be some climbers from way BITD and some great stories to take in. Also Saturday UK climber, Tim Emmett. Plus, affordable climbing clinics, volunteer trail day, Trade Fair and Gear Demo and some great parties. For more info: Squamish Mountain Festival Dave Jones squamishclimbing.com
  3. We've been here before but the new proponents say this time around it will be different. Instead of topping out on the second summit of the Chief, this gondola would head up the ridge towards Mt. Habrich (a short steep valley over) and end 200 meters above the Chief. The gondola would still pass through Stawamus Chief Provincial Park, who has not squashed the idea so far... The debate has already started on squamishclimbing.com
  4. Nicely done Val and Jasmine, Sounds like you did the old tree, bush and shrub start to Calculus Crack. There is a new two pitch 5.9 and 5.8 start to this climb which by all accounts is much better. Check out this thread on New start to Calculus crack Here is part of that thread: Here is a picture of pitch 1. "To keep the grade at 5.9, step right into the secondary crack, then right again. Bring plenty of small gear (doubles in the tiny cams and up)." And there is a new 5.9 finish to the Buttress put up last summer by Sonnie Trotter et al called Butt Face that goes at 5.9. It could be a good alternative to the classic 10c if it's wet or there are lineups. Too bad about the crowds in Murrin at Up Among the Firs. For a great alternative at similar grade try the climbs at Wire Tap. The namesake route is a five pitch 10a. There are six routes at the base starting at 5.8 and up
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