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Devin27

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Everything posted by Devin27

  1. Selling a lot of stuff I do not use anymore or have never used to make space for new stuff. Everything is located in Bothell, WA with frequent trips made to Everett and Seattle. Also could ship with paypal and $7 shipping flat. Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro Crampons. Used once still in box- $120 http://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-sabretooth-pro-crampon North Face Cats Meow Synthetic Sleeping Bag 20 degrees. couple years old and used for probably about 30-40 nights. No stains and no smells. In great shape. $100 http://www.campmor.com/north-face-cat-39-s-meow-20-degree-sleeping-bag-regular.shtml Outdoor Research Men's Small Crocodile Gaiters. In very good shape, one small hole patched with seam sealer. All the buckles and velcro is in great shape. $40 http://www.rei.com/product/725915/outdoor-research-crocodile-gaiters-unisex GSI Outdoors Pinnacle Camper Cookset- Four person setup with all the pots, pans, plates and cups you could ever want. Used on two trips, basically new. $80 http://www.rei.com/product/830776/gsi-outdoors-pinnacle-camper-cookset
  2. Thanks for that link, I have been looking for a long time for one that works with my XSi that isnt as big and expensive as the cannon model.
  3. Nicely done time lapse. Out of interest, how long did you have that running for and I assume you have to a battery pack for your DSLR. I burned up a battery in about an hour of shooting meteors on Shuksan
  4. Wandered into your video at the base of the summit block. Nathan is Magua? Not sure I see the resemblance
  5. Trip: NEWS and SEWS - South Face (5.7) and SW Rib (5.8) Date: 7/28/2012 Trip Report: Spent the weekend instructing and climbing at Washington Pass with the Boealps Basic Rock Class. I had actually not climbed in the Liberty Bell group yet and was excited to finally get up here. Climbed the South Face of North Early Winter Spire with a student on Saturday and then the Southwest Rib of South Early Winter Spire for fun on Sunday. Saturday- South Face of NEWS An easy “5.7”, very straight forward, but less known (We were the only ones on it all day) route up the gully between NEWS and SEWS and then up the south side of NEWS to the summit. Started out about 7am from the Blue Lake TH and took the climbers trail to the base of the gully. We found the route guarded by two furry sentries and took care to hang out packs out of reach in a tree. The goats followed us to the base of pitch 2 before I accidentally dropped a set of nuts from my harness and scared them off. Beta- - Pitch 1 goes up the slabs (many options from class 4 to 5.4 or so) and into the class 3 gully terminating directly below the huge chockstone (bet. NEWS and SEWS, on right) - Pitch 2 (crux) goes up to the left of the chockstone (5.6) and then traverses back onto the top of the chockstone via a 5.7 face ("bolted" with very old pitons) - Pitch 3 is class 3 & terminates further up the gully below another smaller chockstone - Pitch 4 moves left and up easy terrain (c. 5.4) starting about 20 feet below the upper chockstone and tops out on this upper chockstone (top of the NEWS-SEWS notch); - Pitch 5 climbs about 190 feet straight up and left (or north) from the notch on easy terrain (low 5th) and terminates when you run out of rope; - Pitch 6 heads up easy chimneys (up to 5.6 moves depending on variation) and tops out on low angle friction slabs just below the summit. The first “Pitch” of this climb is a single class 5 move over a pile of rocks to get just below the gigantic chock stone. I climbed this pitch unroped but threw a handline down for my student. The second pitch is the longest and best climbing on the route. Mostly low 5th with a few 5.5 or so moves and well protected by gear or the several pins on the route. The crux is the well-known 5.7 traverse at the end of the pitch to get to the top of the chock stone. The traverse is actually much more difficult for the follower than the leader. The consequence of a lead fall there would be minimal because it is protected by a ghetto bolt, however you must unclip this bolt when following and a fall would send you on a 20 ft pendulum into the chock stone below. This would likely result in serious injury but can be easily protected if the leader places a piece in a large crack above the traverse to protect the follower. The hardest part from here on out is route finding. Your goal is the climb onto the second set of chock stones at the very top of the gully, so do not be tempted to cut left up the ramp, this is the rappel route. From here, climb up the south face up the obvious easy class 5 terrain until you come to a split in the gullies about 30 ft below the gigantic overhang. Build and gear anchor and bring up your follower. Take the easier left gully, as the right does not have good pro and takes some committing moves. Continue working up and left over easy terrain. Do not go straight up or right unless you want to deal with offwidth pain. Top out in a class 3 gully and walk to the summit. The summit register is a giant pile of old beta sheets that people have signed and there is very little space left in the container for more paper, so a new one is needed. For the descent, ignore the trees with rap slings and head southwest of the ascent route to a set of shiny new bolts. Single rope raps (one of which is a full 30 meters so do not bring a 50m rope) take you all the way to the class 3 gully below the second chock stone. The rap from the lower chock stone is free for the last 20 ft and very fun. Sunday- SW Rib of SEWS Having the day off from instructing and wanted to have some fun on 5.8 offwidth, Brandon and I headed up the familiar trail for the SW rib of SEWS. Our friendly neighborhood goats were basking on the trail, but didn’t seem to take notice of us. There is plenty of beta on this route, so I will post my comments by pitch. Pitch 1- The crux of the climb. Mid way up the pitch is a 5.8 bulge without great positive holds that is interesting to get over. The climbing before and after is easy class 5th. Pitch 2- The famous offwidth. This pitch was much easier than the 5.8 it is advertised as. Great climbing with fantastically huge exposure. It is barely a crack climb, since the outside of the crack is basically an arête you can climb. We brought a #5 and it was nice to have near the top of the pitch, but you could do the climb without it if you are ok running it out a little bit, or place gear further in the crack. On the plus side any fall would be clean since there is a few hundred feet of free air below you. Pitch 3- Short easy pitch. You should continue past the tree and around the corner to the base of the slab pitch and belay off a gear anchor because it makes the slab pitch way easier than trying to belay from the ledge around the corner. Pitch 4- Hope you like runout slab, because here it is. The protection (when you have it) is solid, but it is pretty spread out. Route finding is easy, just follow the path on the rock that is not covered in lichen. The final move is a committing step across to get from the slab to a large crack with a tiny tree growing. The crack has great positive holds on the near edge, but you have to suck it up and reach for it even though your last pro is 10-15 ft below you. Climb as high as you can and make the step. Not too hard honestly, but that depends on your comfort on slab. Pitch 5- The bear hug pitch- I recommend not leading this pitch because it is pretty funny to watch your leader hump his way up the twin cracks. I actually never touched the left crack and did a lie back on the right crack that was easy, but placing pro this way might have been tricky. DO NOT END THIS PITCH AT THE TOP OF THE TWIN CRACKS. Keep climbing easy terrain until you see a face with a bolt above you. Rest of the climb- The rest is easy. Do not bother with the rappel from the rabbit ears, instead traverse around to the right (shorter but slightly harder and exposed) or left (class 2/3 but longer and very bad rope drag) of the big block to get to the gully and final cracks to the summit. Descended via the south arête route Gear Notes: NEWS- Minimal rack. Need more draws than pro because of all the fixed pins on pitch 2. BD Cams .3-3 and a set of nuts. SEWS- BD Cams .3-5 and a set of nuts. Used the #5 once. See Pitch 2 above. Could have made it without it but not for the faint of heart Approach Notes: Follow the trail to Blue Lake, climbers trail to the left in the second clearing and follow it all the way up until the very obvious fork in the trail and go right. Honestly just hike towards NEWS and SEWS, it is not hard to find
  6. Looking to sell my Nemo Meta 2 tent. I bought it last year and set it up once in my yard but it never left my gear room. I realize now that I spend a lot more time in my bivy than with a 2 person tent, so looking to sell to fund some ice tools. Check the specs at the link below. This tent is ultra light and the most compact full size tent I have ever seen. Sets up with a pair of trekking poles. The entire thing packs down to the smaller than a volleyball. http://www.rei.com/product/797208/nemo-meta-2p-tent I can send pictures of my actual tent if requested. Send me a PM if interested. I am located in Bothell, WA and travel frequently between Renton and Everett area. Otherwise I will ship at buyers expense. Asking $275
  7. Trip: Buckner Mountain - North Face Date: 7/21/2012 Trip Report: Taking advantage of the nice weather, we headed for the North Face of Mount Buckner for our Boealps Intermediate Climbing Class Ice Outing. We did not actually find any ice, but did have a great weekend. Climbers: Devin (Scribe), Sara, Jim and BK We planned to carryover by climbing up to Boston-Sahale Col, across Boston Glacier, up the North Face of Buckner then down the SW side and back down the Sahale Arm. Sleeping in at the Trailhead, we headed up Boston Basin in low clouds around 8am. It is amazing how much longer the trail is now without all the snow that was on it a few months back when we got weathered off a Forbidden attempt. We reached the tree line and solid snow as we opened into Boston Basin under sunny skies and an awesome view. So many peaks to climb, so little time. After a short break to watch Marmot mortal combat, we headed up the snow and eventually roped up for the Quien Sabe Glacier. Snow was consolidated and made for fast travel all the way to the col. Since we got a late start, there was a ton of people heading down from the col while we were heading up. The bergschrund at the top of the Quien Sabe is easily passable but might start to be an issue in a few weeks. Now some shenanigans began as we had to climb around the pile O’ crap (Boston Peak). I had a desire to climb Boston Peak (Why I wanted to do this even I do not know, I blame the Bulger’s). However the climb turned out to be even more ridiculous that I expected. We followed the ledges down to the Boston Glacier, which was actually very straight forward route finding even though it was absolutely terrifying because of the ridiculously loose rock. I almost had a very bad day when a huge boulder slid right above me and almost got my leg before nearly falling on BK. Once on the glacier, Sara and Jim headed to make camp while I talked BK into trying Boston with me. We climbed on the rock next to the Boston Glacier towards the summit block of Boston, however we transitioned to the glacier too early I think and ended up separated from the summit block by an impassible Bergschrund. At this point it was getting late in the day and we decided to pass on Boston this time. The Boston glacier is surprising broken up and navigating to our flat spot for camp was interesting but not extremely difficult. Up at 3am and walking by 4 towards the North Face of Mount Bucker. It took us an hour to cross the Boston Glacier to the base of the route. Roped up and climbing the route when the sun started to rise. The lower North face is pretty broken up but you can easily traverse to the adjacent snow field to avoid all of the moats. Snow was perfect for kicking steps but hard enough to make for fast travel. Clouds moved in as we neared the summit, but route finding was extremely easy so no issues. Hit the summit at about 10am. Found only two other entries in the summit register from the year, one from the day before. As we headed into Horseshoe basin the skies started to clear. Now that we have completed the straightforward technical climbing, time now apparently for the shenanigan filled descent down the Sahale Arm. Crossing Horseshoe basin was more annoying than anything. Ages of traversing on a hill are less than fun. The “snow finger” that you’re supposed to climb to exit the basin was pretty steep with an unfriendly runout onto the rocks, so we went around to the broad gully to climbers left. At the top we made the mistake of going right around the large moat to get to Sahale camp. We should have gone left up the snow ramp. Instead we ended up on a steep sketchy snow bridge to get to Sahale camp. I do not recommend going this way. And because we needed more fun, here comes the whiteout. After some wandering and eventually finding the trail (yay GPS) we made it back to the cars and to Olive Garden for dinner. Great trip, but man do my feet hurt Gear Notes: 4 Pickets per team, 2 Screws (did not need) Crampons, Ice axe and ice tool and a prayer to the gods of loose rock to let us pass. Approach Notes: Trail is clear all the way to Boston Basin. Getting out of Horseshoe basin and back to Sahale was far more of a pain, though the ledges down Boston to Boston Glacier were a close second
  8. Was just up there last weekend and looked but did not see it. Sorry. Which side of the road were you parked on?
  9. Finally remembered to add photos from the trip. And yes, Danika had her first trad lead on pitch 2
  10. Looking for photos and beta on the best route up this choss pile. I have lots and lots of TRs full vague reference to terrible routes, but would very much enjoy photos and beta from someone that found the slightly less terrifying route up this thing.
  11. Still hunting. Would love a pair of recent model curved ice tools for around $200 or so Also looking for BD express turbo ice screws, all sizes
  12. Wasn't this tried before and someone pointed out they were $175 on backcountry? Don't want to sabotage your sale, but the solution isn't to delete the post and make a new one
  13. Looking for a pair of ice tools. Send me a pm with model and year and how much you want for them. Located in Bothell, WA
  14. Trip: The Tooth - South Face Date: 7/4/2012 Trip Report: Surprisingly hadnt seen a Tooth TR this year, so here you go. To celebrate the day off and shake off the dejection of so many weathered out climbs this year, a bunch of Boealpers headed out to Snoqualmie Pass for a day trip up The Tooth. Climbers: Chris, Danika, Tina, Nathan, Steven, Devin(scribe) Summer trail to Snow Lake is still pretty covered in consolidated snow about a mile or so, but it is easy to follow. There is still a lot of snow on the approach. It is all snow around Source lake and up the ski routes to the pass. Two hours later, we were the first ones up to pass leading up to the south face, but by the time we were racked and ready to climb we had about five other groups waiting to get on the rock. Good thing we got up early. Climbing was great, though we did make the mistake of being tricked by a belay tree and stopping the second pitch way too soon, thus adding an unnecessary pitch. As everyone is aware, be prepared to deal with crowds on this route and keep safe. Someone set off a huge rockfall below us while we were climbing, thankfully no one was below at the time. We had several new rock climbers with us and Danika wanted her first trad lead, so we didnt set any speed records, but still topped out at around Noon. Don't worry about bringing tons of bail webbing, as there are about 10 slings and 3 rap rings per station and sometimes several different stations in the same area. Decent was uneventful until we reached the rap down from Pineapple pass which features snow 1/3 of the way up and a decent moat in the works near the base. This can be easily crossed on skiers left for the time being. Back to Seattle in time for fireworks. Photos!!!!! Gear Notes: Ice axe and mountaineering boots were nice to have but several of out team made out without them Very light rack. There are so many fixed pieces this will soon be a sport route and every belay station has a tree or big rock that is already slung. Only used .5, .75,1 and 2 BD, and a bunch of slings. Approach Notes: Tons of snow. The decent down the bowl is honestly still skiable. Not sure what the winter trail looks like though.
  15. Sweet trip. Looks like the weather was actually pretty good for you guys.
  16. We had the same thought about driving vs climbing down the road a bit on Raven Ridge. 9ish hours of driving to get nearly blown off the ridge. The things we do for a list.
  17. So, despite the hassle of fighting it, and despite Ranger Vicky's protestations about "all the good the money goes toward," And by that, you mean the states general fund. None of that money goes back into the parks. The only thing that has changed from before the passes to now is the parking tickets.
  18. As anyone been up the Becky Route yet this year? Looking to introduce my wife to multipitch but wanted to know how much snow is still on the ledges
  19. Trip: Gardner and North Gardner Mountain - Date: 5/26/2012 Trip Report: Team: Danika, Dustin, Jeff, Devin and Indy With the sun out and a long weekend, we decided to head out to Winthorp and climb some top 100’s. Our original plan was to climb Gardner, North Gardner and Abernathy, although we knew that Abernathy might be a stretch. We weren’t particularly looking forward to the long 10 miles of approach, especially since some of us were still dusting off our leg muscles from a lazy winter of skiing. The approach was long and grueling, but actually pretty pleasant. There are only a few easy to cross blow downs and plenty of small stream crossings for water. We wore light hikers for the approach but switched into boots at about mile 7 or 8 when we started to find patchy snow on the trail. There isn’t full snow until you are into Gardner Meadows completely and it was melting pretty fast. There are a few lower campsites that are melted out around 5700 but we elected to camp on snow at the base of Gardner at 6100ft. It took us a lot longer to make the approach than we thought, and with clouds coming in we decided not to climb Abernathy that day. This turned out to be a good call when the rain started lightly a few hours later. Sunday morning we climbed Gardner first. Crampons made for much faster travel, but the route could be climbed without them as one of our team did. Easy climbing on only a few slightly steep areas had us on the summit in less than two hours. There was some debate if we were on the summit or if the rock bulge to the East was taller. Thankfully the USGS put a marker on the summit, so we got the requisite summit shot and planned our route to North Gardner. We followed the ridge as best we could to point 8374, dropping low when it got a little rocky for our dog Indy. Very easy route finding and easy class 2/3 climbing up to North Gardner. The decent from point 8374 was probably one of the best glissades I have ever done. There was also some sweet boot skiing by Danika and Jeff. Once we got down to camp, we realized no one was in shape enough to make the long hike over to climb Abernathy, especially with a 10 mile hike out the next day. The hike out was everything you would expect a 10 mile hike out would be, long but nothing exciting. What was exciting was beer and ice cream in Winthrop. Great weekend and got two more top 100’s Gear Notes: Standard alpine scramble. Ice axe, crampons (made travel in the morning much faster and easier) Approach Notes: 10 miles of easy trail with some patchy snow on the last few miles.
  20. Has anyone attempted it recently on gotten a good view of the West Ridge route? Curious if there is still tons of snow or if the rock is climbable
  21. Looking for a North Face Verto Jacket. Basically a ultra light technical poncho. Men's Small or medium. Any color is fine. Send me a PM with details on condition and how much you want for it. Prefer local in the Seattle area, but will entertain all offers.
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