wetslide

Bring a pink tricam.

yikes. definitely saw a few shady characters there last Thursday lurking around the parking lot that scattered when I came back to my car. Who wants to do a stakeout?

In my limited experience placing bolts, I've used the ones Kurt recommends, but I used the 1/2 inch version primarily. They are quite pricey but I think that makes it so that you consider the options when placing bolts.

You have me mistaken for the OP.

A few examples of racking. I agree with the most the sentiments and explanations stated thus far. Sometimes I thank God for the private school system. Photos: Todd K. on Total Soul, Zach G. on Breakfast of Champions and Thin fingers, and Mark S. on Toxic Shock. (Rocketparrotlet) (Sorry for the obnoxious watermark I don't have small versions of the watermark-free version.

haha thanks. Those were taken with my iphone!

I made it up there yesterday expecting to wait in a cue for hours. Turned out there was one chill party that let me solo through while they rappelled. Made it to the summit in like 2 1/2 hours from the car. About 11 minutes of actual rock climbing in rock shoes up. Probably the same down climbing and rappelling. Definitely have done it car to car in less time than that before but I was carrying a lot more gear this time. Amazing day to get out.

Really depends on the route. Often I just take both bd reactors if I am doing something kind of technical. For big mountain slogs to technical routes I use a longer (70 cm- I'm tall) ice ax paired with a reactor. There are definitely better options out there, this is just what I've become comfortable with. I used to have some convertible ice axes from Camp that had a retractable pinky rest. Then I lost one soloing Baring and just sold the other and bought something else. Camp does seem to be on the cutting edge of light mountaineering axes.

Knifeblades, Ice screws, Red alien.

While probably not qualified to offer an opinion, I know how both sides feel about this. I've done some speed stuff, mainly solo. I've broadcasted some of the more entertaining of those here, but have remained silent on many other, more personal trips, impressive to the outside or not. Just remember getting off the couch is half the battle. Just getting into the mountains, considering speed or not, is a worthy endeavor. I think speed gets in the way of really enjoying the moment but that's just how some of us are wired. We love goals, ect. Whether the juxtaposition of media and climbing is good is still to be seen. I'm just waiting for a death to be captured and broadcasted out to the real world. (not that I want that to happen). It will take something like that for us realize that we do play a very dangerous game when pushing limits for personal recognition, fame, or affirmation. These were my thoughts. Back to researching for my thesis.

Ok, Tyson thinks its okay so we're good. I almost had to think for myself on that one.

1. 6/22/12- 6/24 or 25/12 2. Squammish, BC 3. Woodinville, WA. 4. 1 5. I can drive. 26 mpg hwy. Meeting a partner in the parking lot on 6/22 so don't really need a partner. But, if you're experienced might be able to work something out.

The best climber is the best looking one.

Rainier is a funny mountain. As a triathlete, marathoner, climber myself, I have had great success on Rainier. I'm three for three so far on two different routes. Two of those were in very poor weather, and we were some of the only parties to summit. I attribute it to being damn stubborn and stronger than most. The first two times I did it I trained like an animal and did great. The last time I did it off the couch and everyone was calling me an "animal" for being so strong. I chalk that up to a good base fitness and good genes. I would not recommend getting on a two-man rope team with a novice that does not know crevasse rescue. Have I done it myself? Yes. Would I do it now? No. There is some very good, hard earned advice from all the other guys. Take the time to earn Rainier. I think it is a good goal (one that I attained) to be able to do Rainier without help from other expert climbers- IE- not being dependent on other people for knowledge, expertise, or assistance short of emergency help). Too many people just eek by, just a simple mistake short of disaster. Do yourself and everyone else a favor and get the experience necessary. It bastardizes climbing when you go through the motions without getting the experience. I understand that you have time limitations and I respect that. But don't expect to slide on through without any problems when you try to wing it. Just this last trip we turned around 2 people who were scared, inexperienced, under-trained, and unprepared for the hazards and challenges that Rainier can bring about.

Apparently cc.com is aid. Or at least it blows your onsite.

Interested in some grivel g12's? Used but they have a heel clip and toe straps. Pm me.

For you, maybe. But the rest of the interwebs..not so much.

This is when having a cabin 30 minutes from Icicle becomes awesome.

Freight were you that group coming down as we passed around 13,900 feet? Congrats on the summit.

I also am looking for some. Maybe 2-3 at a reasonsable price. I have a pro deal so I might do that of I don't see any deals. Cheers

Thanks for the compliment Water. When she punched through it was over a crevasse bridge.

Trip: Mt Rainier - Ingraham Direct Date: 5/12/2012 Trip Report: So Luke D. asked me about climbing Rainier this last weekend. The forecast looked great. Turned out I was the only one who had summited Rainier previously. I was happy to do the ID again as it is a very enjoyable route. He had invited his roommate Hannah and her boyfriend Dave, as well as Mike, Luke's friend. Anyway, we left Seattle on Friday around 6 am. He got to the park, got permits, and so on and so forth. We hiked up to Muir. Luke, Mike and I got there in a few hours (not sure exactly how long), while Hannah and Dave arrived 2 1/2 hours later. By then, we had long finished dinner and hydrated. We had debated about summiting on Sunday, but with the warming weather and the agony of waiting in a good weather window, we decided to make a Saturday summit. On summit morning we left the hut around 2 am. After 1 3/4 hours of slow movement, we found that Hannah and Dave were scared of the terrain, questioning their own experience level, and tired. After much group discussion it was decided we would send them back from Ingraham Flats. They agreed and headed down. After we cut them loose the three of us sailed up the peak. We met up with two bros coming off of Gib Ledges. "Hey assholes!" I think is how they greeted us. They had some trouble with cold hands and slow movement that they worked out, and they summited with us. The route is in pretty good conditions, but on the way down we were a little unnerved one particular bridge crossing. We saw a group of two females, one of whom seemed to break through the bridge in front of us. They managed to get out though. The summit was glorious- we took some pics and headed down. All in all a great trip with good partners. Gear Notes: Crevasse rescue gear, a picket, screw, helmet, 30 meter 8.5 rope. Approach Notes: drive to paradise and follow the crowds to Muir. Follow the boot path to the summit.

Haha sorry man that came off wrong. Just trying to let people know this route can go with much less gear. I applaud you for your efforts. I did that route as well when I was progressing and learned from asshole comments like the one I just made. Didn't know the air was so thick around here. I apologize for my comment, but not necessarily for everything I've ever done on this board. There's kind of an us verses them mentality here that is bullshit and pretentious and doesn't exist when you share a rope with someone. I can't name one person I've climbed with who would't rope up with me for personal or other reasons. Can YOU say the same thing? Let's PM if you want to talk.

10 ice screws is ridiculous for this route.

Second Ascent, Feathered Friends, REI.