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wetslide

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Everything posted by wetslide

  1. it all really does come down to when we smoke a bowl, huh Kevin?
  2. It is hard to go wrong with a modern softshell pant these days for trips in the pine. I have a pair of stoic, first ascent, and mountain hardware softshells. Out of the three, the mountain hardware pair that I picked up on steepandcheap.com is the warmest, best constructed, and most durable. I think they are called Sarpa.
  3. It can be anywhere from one move- "Hey I stuck that dyno!". Or a short sequence, typically no longer than four or five actual limb movements.
  4. I usually climb with friends. But, sometimes no one is available and Index is the best place to be in my mind. I showed up one day with a rack and rope, planning to solo my typical climbs. I solo the GNS and walk off. I saw another solo climber lurking around the base of the lower town wall. He approached and introduced himself. I can't remember his name. He had a rack and rope as well, though it looked newer than mine. He said something about Godzilla and we headed up and climbed it. It was just another lap for each of us. And we both sent. Then off to Japanese Gardens. Nice little lap. Then we go to Princely Ambitions. About this time Peter and Todd show up. We chit chat and they run a lap on our climbs. Turns into a typical climbing day. We move on to Roger's Corner linked up with Breakfast of Champions in one monster pitch. Lots of gear, enduro fest (at the time). I sent on lead clean. It was a hard climb to link. But I pulled it off. No big deal. We rap down and part ways. I still see that old guy around Index from time to time, never with a partner. But always somehow attached to the climbing essence. He didn't place much pro, he climbed hard, and he chit chatted like a mother f******.
  5. There's a minimalist bag from Adventure Medical Kits that I've used quite a bit. What is lacks in permiability and breathability it makes up for in weight. I got a nice Sierra Designs bivy but I have yet to use it. Either I'm going for the day or have a tent, so I've not found a good use for it. I've been known to do some silly things to save weight. As have my partners, particularly when they forget their bivy sacs.
  6. In fact, you can add a whole bunch to the entire route and really dumb-it down! This is an adventure route. Please don't bolt it and make it open to the masses.
  7. going to be out there. Looking for a half day excursion or so or something Monday. I'm going to be in the area.
  8. Summit for someone. Through Big City Mountaineers. I believe you can still apply now.
  9. Augie's Quest. ALS research. Beyond that I'm not quite sure what it is to be completely honest. I'm more the climbing expert than anything. Here is a link the facebook page if you're interested. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Climb-For-The-Cure/291672500882243?ref=hl
  10. haha I knew someone was going to say something about that. Yes it was. She's from Minnesota. I didn't know until the night before the climb that she didn't have other boots. She bought those for an early season climb of hood that got shut down. She turned around about 1/3 of the way up the climb. She was fit but was having bad cramps so turned around. It was for the best.
  11. Trip: Mt Hood - South Side Date: 8/17/2012 Trip Report: Guided a couple friends up Hood this last Friday. 2 of us made the summit. We saw one other person high on the mountain, an eastcoaster who seemed a little out of his element but nonetheless made the summit. We experienced very hard snow on the final headwall, and 4 inches of dirt over bullet ice in the exit shoot to the summit ridge. It was pretty unnerving climbing for about 200 feet. We brought a rope, screws, and used none of it. The route is doable but not the best conditions I've seen by far. A little late in the season for this route IMHO. Note: We had a great time partying with our local friends down there. Not that they read this board but the world needs more people like J and M. Oh, and we raised 10,000 dollars for charity by doing this climb. cheers. Gear Notes: crampons, ice ax, ice screws and rope brought but not used.
  12. It is very common for relatively new crack climbers to have poor technique and therefore to experience pain. I used to tape for several years for harder cracks, now I rarely do (not that I don't get myself bloody on 5.10 and harder cracks from time to time). There isn't any easy cure for this, short of taping. Just climb more.
  13. Don't do it! My buddy got really messed up glissading that. That was late season with lots of snice. Might be different in some conditions.
  14. Wise words friends. But, if anyone deserves to get their gear back it is these two.
  15. Well, one double/half rope isn't designed to be used alone. Not that many people don't do it. I like the beal jokers because they are designed to be used as twins/half or singles. Very durable as well. Great for routes where many raps are needed, the route is meandering and longer routes where you want to have options.
  16. I'm in the area. I have all the gear for multipitch alpine rock. Lead up to 11a comfortably on trad. Comfortable leading everything, following everything, or swapping leads. Experienced in climbing (you laugh but some people these days.) Alpine, mountain, rock, ect experienced. PM for details. Basically any time between now and Tuesday night I'm free so an alpine trip isn't out of the question.
  17. I got injured twice this season. Both times I bounced back relatively quickly. Say 1-2 months each. - it's hard to bounce back -sometimes you'll climb harder after an injury. -take it slow when getting back into climbing, your mind and body are both out of sync with the whole defying death thing. -soloing and ski alpinism are dangerous. Stack the odds in your favor. Bring a trusted, competent partner. Preferably with some bomb beer or other indulgent consumable. -Trust is everything -So is commitment.
  18. Become a climber. Seriously. Constantly letting down friends, constantly getting burned, constantly burning others. I guess this is the real world.
  19. You guys think batteries are heavy try lugging a generator 300 feet up a snow ridden trail to bolt a mixed line still unrepeated in the Cascades.
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