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skoolsukz

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Posts posted by skoolsukz

  1. Trip: Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir

     

    Date: 6/3/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    Eiji Sugi and myself, Lance Colley climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir in a day last Monday!(19 hours) WOOT WOOT! Awesome route! There were some tracks on the route so I've been expecting a TR already but apparently its up to me!

     

    Anyway here are some pictures mostly for beta in case somebody out there is making plans for the coming weekend. The SGC was in awesome condition! The summit rock pitches had enough snow to make things interesting but nothing extreme. The North Ridge still has snow on it but I'm thinking that will be snow free fairly soon! For the whole story and more pictures here's a link to my blog http://upwardescape.blogspot.com/

     

    Okay now for pictures. Sadly I forgot a real camera so these are with a camera phone but they aren't to bad!

     

    Mt. Stuart

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    Base of the North Ridge

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    Ice cliff glacier(it looked like the exit couloir still had a big cornice above it)

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    Stuart glacier Couloir

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    Conditions above the notch

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    A look down to Ingalls Lake (snowy and frozen)bottom left hand corner

     

    0603131602b.jpg

     

    Gear Notes:

    2 stubby screws

    5 cams to a #2 C4

    6 stoppers

    5 slings

    2 double slings

    Camera

     

    Approach Notes:

    Mountaineers Creek

  2. I'm selling a pair of Scarpa Mont Blanc's

     

    Size 46.5 or a US mens size 11.5-12

     

    A great boot for the summit of Mt. Rainier!

     

    In great shape! They have been used on just one Rainier climb. Soles are in great shape, very few nicks

     

    Call/text/email/PM Lance at lancecolley@gmail.com and 206 446 8392

     

    IMG_8697.JPGIMG_8698.JPGIMG_8700.JPGIMG_8701.JPG

  3. Does anyone have experience or opinions with the Togir slide harness by mammut? It looks like a sweet ice harness at a decent cost.

     

    It has "3 ice carabiner slots" it looks like 2 of them are on the left hand side. Do I have this right?

  4. Used one season mostly as an alpine tool

    used less then 10 days on Water ice

     

    Some scratches on the shafts

    picks need some sharpening

    $350obo would like to sell in as a pair

     

    both tools:

    https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-am9qFt5v5LY/UOBxXyGikMI/AAAAAAAACjI/w2GWAdoikEQ/s144/DSCN0157.JPG

     

    Hammer:

    https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B4tDVzJkIWI/UOBxa5DENXI/AAAAAAAACjY/bOFKJ2SmndM/s400/DSCN0159.JPG

     

    Adze:

    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2iDFgR2-ViU/UOBxcfMJQqI/AAAAAAAACjg/_LWsEiaBgjI/s144/DSCN0160.JPG

     

    sorry for the poor picture quality. I can post better ones later if needed!

     

    best way to get me is at lancecolley@gmail.com

  5. Thanks for all the help! lots of great tips and reminders.

     

    Another question if ya'll don't mind! For a three person team do you think a cook shelter like a BD mid is absolutely necessary? or to much extra work? Our tent is a Trango 3

  6. I have put together a Denali climb this coming June and my last step is putting together a simple menu full of calories. I don't see the point in reinventing the wheel so I was hoping somebody out there could help me out with some ideas, tips on what worked well for them when they were on the mountain, or an example menu to work with. We have no dietary restrictions, we are not gourmet chefs either.

     

    PM or email works great. Lancecolley@gmail.com

     

    Thanks.

  7. I’m a student at the UW looking for some fellow climbers who want to tackle Denali next summer(2012) This would be my second climb; I climbed it in 2010 with the guide service Mountain Trip. Climbing in Alaska is like none other and I need to go back! I want to put together a team of 2 or 3 more ambitious climbers. I can offer my personal experience on the mountain, my personal fitness level, my dedication to safety, and my experience in planning extended trips plus most group gear. I’m posting this now because it would be very beneficial almost mandatory for our team to begin planning and training now to make a successful climb. A few climbing trips together this winter is essential. I’m looking for individuals who will spend the money for gear, cost of the trip and will buy a plane ticket a few months in advance. I’m hoping to climb the West Buttress again unless I find a strong and we decide to attempt one of the various other routes. Please send me an email: lancecolley@gmail.com I’m not necessarily looking for somebody with tons of experience and a badass resume, but rather someone as excited and as dedicated as I am to getting this done.

  8. I really want to climb this route. I climbed the Tooth the other day and it was awesome! I have a smallish rack of pro and can lead the route. I'm a younger quick guy but willing to climb with anybody whose got enthusiasm. I have wheels. Thursday 7/14 is best for me

    Thanks,

     

    Lance

     

    lancecolley@gmail.com

  9. Trip: Chair Peak - NE buttress

     

    Date: 4/23/0

     

    Trip Report:

    Brandon Gratias and I climbed Chair peak today. Fantastic day. Morning Start was beautiful. The route was great, enough ice to put in 4 screws and we used 1 picket (sketchy in the current snow conditions)

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    At the rock outcrop we opted to go left for the ice step. The other team opted left, they seemed to have some troubles.

     

    009.JPGP4220073.jpg

     

    Topping out.

     

     

    Getting out was a bit sketcy we had no place to rappell due to massive cornices. We down climbed the backside and traversed then climbed back up to the top of one of the couloirs and got lucky it was the only one without the cornice!

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    Climbers on route as we descended.

     

    Gear Notes:

    4 screws, 1 picket, sunscreen.

     

    Approach Notes:

    Snowshoes would have been very nice on the way out.

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