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Dave7

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Everything posted by Dave7

  1. Saw this on mountain project today. Pretty awesome timelapse video. Yosemite HD
  2. Shit Climbers say do you have some water?
  3. received my copy today, awesome job!!!
  4. the russians love their winter Good luck to them!
  5. CNN report of Climbing commercial Obviously Alex Honnold and Katie Brown aren't "real climbers" nor are they really climbing in Moab.
  6. The DC is a cattle trail, but I would still do a class. I know there was at least one or two people who fell in crevasses on the DC and needed the help of passing guide services to get out.
  7. Please PM if this is not an appropriate question in this thread. Just curious about this New Paltz crag?? Thanks. Grew up in Woodstock & Pok. Google "the gunks" and you'll find a bunch of info on it. This crag was my first foray into climbing. Awesome place.
  8. Joss Rocks Cam
  9. looks great!! I think one or two volumes near the top of the white portion of the wall would be interesting!
  10. Dave7

    Big Walls

    Awwww yeh.... Will you be my friend, Dave7?
  11. Alpine starts are means of risk management while climbing Mt. Rainier. They are intended to allow maximum time climbing on the most stable snow/ice conditions (generally speaking) and allow you to travel through objective hazards (rockfall, icefall) at the times where they are least likely to occur. The more efficiently you can climb (i.e stable snow conditions, climbing ability, and fitness) the less time you are exposed to the objective hazards. Less time exposed to the objective hazards equals more of chance you do not get hit with rock fall or ice fall. More stable snow conditions will you give you better snow bridge stability for some crevasse crossings. Others you may have to end run. I believe every Rainier route listed in the guide book "Mt. Rainer: A climbing guide" lists the rock fall, ice fall, and crevasses as objective hazard. Simply put an alpine start is a risk mitigation measure that you can use to travel safely in the mountains. Experience and knowledge in the mountains is key in order to assess the hazards and risks, determine your acceptable level of risk, and make the best decision possible to climb within your acceptable level of risk without putting others in danger. My personal experience with Rainier has mostly been in the summer time. My last time up the mountain I saw a ridiculous amount of rockfall come off near the cadaver gap area and rain down across the route crossing the cowlitz. This happened mid afternoon and confirmed my plan to start at 2 am the next morning. I am not an expert, just offering MHO and experience on Rainier. I am sure a lot of these guys on CC have a shit ton load more experience than I, and I would listen to the constructive advice they give. Cheers
  12. i am sorry but that shit is hilarious.
  13. Dave7

    Big Walls

    fuck, im starting to aid too....the darkside..is so alluring..ugh.
  14. This is tragic. What is wrong with people? Leaves behind two children as well. :-(
  15. Thanks for the write-up! I always enjoyed my Ellinor trips!
  16. wfinley - did you head up to Smuggs Notch by chance? I heard its in.
  17. Trip: Mt. Webster, NH - Shoestring Gully Date: 12/28/2011 Trip Report: Having moved to Georgia from Washington state, I have been missing the alpine environment quite a bit. Needless to say a trip to my parents home in Massachusetts got me quite stoked to get on some ice for the first time this season. After trolling through the forums on NEClimbs I was optimistic that there would be ice to climb up in the White Mountains of NH. Seeing as my father would be my climbing partner for this trip and it would be his first time on ice I figured Shoestring Gully would be a fun climb. We started off at 4 am from Mass and drove the 4 hours to Mt. Webster. Searching for the pulloff turned out to be easier than expected, one other party was there getting ready for the approach. Soon enough we were off bushwacking to the gully. After nailing the creek crossing we continued up to the beginning of the gully. There were only a few inches of snow on the ground so climbing the loose boulders turned out to take a little bit longer as we were trying not to break our ankles. Eventually we got to the first pitch of decent ice. As we were getting ready to climb a few more parties showed up, luckily we were first in line and off we went. I lead the first pitch of WI2, scraping the snow off the ice trying to locate good placements for my picks and 'pons. Placed one stubby and made it to the top where I belayed my dad up off a tree. He CRUISED through this step. I was stoked. We continued on, attempting to negotaite the snow covered boulders. I ran out pitch 2 and brought my dad up. He was starting to slow down a little bit so I slowed my pace, got him to eat and drink some and carryed on. At the base of the third pitch, my dad started voicing concerns about not making it up this thing. I thought he wasn't feeling the ice climbing thing, but he said he was starting to tire out (he is an old man :-P haha). Bailing on this route is a bit tough with everyone on the route, and bushwacking on step terrain would not be fun. After I failed to convince him to continue to the top, we started the bail. At first my tried the bushwacking approach, but I quickly decided that rapping the route would be safer. We set up the rappels and began the journey down. For some reason my dad loves rappelling, he was digging the whole alpine scene, suffering for being tired, cold weather, carrying packs full of gear, and deviating from the plan. We made it down safely and after a nap and some food, the old man felt better. Couldn't ask for a better adventure with dad. Returned the next day and soloed the route. Had to get it done, as I will be back in GA until the summer, and then hopefully getting after it in Alaska!!! Cheers, -Dave Gully pic from the start of the approach in the gully prepping for pitch 1 Gear Notes: ice stuff stubbys, slings, small selection of rock pro Approach Notes: Ascend the obvious gully
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