Dave7

Wild Country Helium Carabiner recall. More here.

IMO, I would keep the Evo's. Spantiks are definitely super warm, I found a brand new pair on sale for $400 (still expensive, but worth it if you are looking for warmth and technical climbing. Sounds like these would be your go to winter boot. Have you thought about something like a Batura or Phantom Guide? Maybe just the balance you are looking for? I was just reading Dane's blog (coldthistle.blogspot.com) today about these two boots actually. Whittaker mountaineering has the Phantom Guide's on sale (http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/brands/scarpa/phantom-guide), plus an extra 20% off with promo code CHILLOUT. Brings them to about $380. Not trying to sell you on anything, just trying to give you my opinion and the offers out there. I have Spantiks and Evo's and love them both. Cheers!

Smash and grab are quickly becoming my favorite TR to read.

that is badass

Well done. Thanks for the report!! Stoke is high!

I can't wait to climb in the valley!

second on the salopettes- ill pay shipping if it comes down to it.

Nicely done! What route was it? Thanks for taking the time to rebolt it!

I hope everything works out well for him. It is awesome how the climbing community tends to come together to help someone in need. Hope he has a speedy and full recovery.

Nice pictures. The first couple remind me of something you would see in some sort of old school syfy thriller. Sweet shots!!! I look forward to the timelapse!

http://www.climbing.com/news/lightning-fast-new-route-in-alaska/ well done guys, I look forward to the write up.

well done! great TR, thanks for the share! I enjoyed the bear tangent haha.

are you willing to ship? i would pay for shipping. I am interested in the bugaboo guide.

Likewise! I originally started climbing in WA but have recently moved to NY, if you are ever looking to get after some climbs let me know! Cheers!

Go with Cilogear, you won't be disappointed.

+1

Trip: Chapel Pond, Keene Valley, NY - Regular Route Date: 10/2/2012 Trip Report: This summer has been quite the wash for as far as climbing goes. Moving, a month long training exercise, and friends and family obligations have limited my time in the outdoors, much to my chagrin. A perk of being in the Army is being able to travel and move to different parts of the country (can be bad at times) and explore the outdoors. Yesterday offered an opportunity to get out, climb a longer route, and enjoy the fall foliage of the high peaks region of the Adirondacks. My new-founded climbing partner Chris and I set out leisurely at 7:30 am to make the three hour drive from Watertown, NY to Keene Valley, NY right outside of Lake Placid. Our destination was Chapel Pond Slab a nice 800' piece of granite overlooking the valley and a nice sized pond. We decided on climbing regular route a 6 (or 8 pitch depending on the guidebook) pitch 5.5 which would boost our confidence as he hasn't climbed in over a year and I haven't climbed anything in a couple months. I have plateaued leading 5.6 trad and need to start training and gaining more experience to break into leading harder. Frankly, we were worried that the climb would be wet, a whole weekend of rain and half a day of decent weather had us concerned that we would only have a nice car trip. Luckily, upon arrival the route was mostly dry. A most excellent adventure ensued. The climbing was definitely 5 star (as the guidebook calls it) for such a low grade. The clean rock and sections of fantastic climbing had the stoke high. The pictures don't do it justice. The foliage and climbing were fantastic, can't think of a better way to get introduced into the Adirondacks. Gear Notes: Normal trad rock, doubles in metolius number 1, number 2, and bd number 1 would be helpful. Adirondack Rock is the guidebook to reference. Approach Notes: 1 minute approach from Rte 73

Conditions vary from year to year, with that said, usually the best weather/conditions windows occur late June - Aug.

I second NWAlpine pants.

Dry treated 50m tendon 9.8 rope, middle is marked. Used for a couple alpine outings. Excellent condition, $145 + shipping. email @ leydetd at gmail dot com

good to see you getting after it! your trip reminds me of my late season trip last year. fun times!!!

I live in Upstate NY for the time being. As far as forums go, I regularly use mountain project and NEClimbs.com for partners. I am sure the Gunks reputation precedes it, but the Adirondacks has some pretty sweet climbs. Check out Keene Valley (just south of Lake Placid) and the High Peaks Region (most trails from the Adirondack Loj lead to some pretty cool climbs, but a long approach). Those are the only two areas in the daks i have explored so far. If you feel like ponying up a few $$ for a guidebook, get Adirondack Rock by Lawyer and Haas. ADIRONDACK ROCK I am leaving for Cali for a month, but if you are around late September or so hit me up. Hope you have fun!

Rad!

So sick!!!!!! Great job guys, thank you for sharing.

Does anyone have experience with Mammut Genesis half ropes??