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AAC-PNW

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  1. Great video of a q&a with famed alpinist Reinhold Messner speaking at The American Alpine Club's reception at this year's (2012) WInter Outdoor Retailer. http://inclined.americanalpineclub.org/2012/02/reinhold-messner-at-outdoor-retailer/
  2. This is the event we had in Seattle last February which resulted in the most successful fundraiser in the Club's history. We'll be trying to surpass that in Boston on March 3rd! AAC President Steve Swenson and the rest of the ascent team from the historic Sasser Kangri II expedition will be premiering their documentary of the climb "The Old Breed". Buy your dinner tickets by February 6th to be entered into a very special drawing to win: • Two VIP Passes to the Annual Dinner. The VIP reception, overlooking Boston Harbor, is an intimate gathering of North America’s most accomplished climbers and mountaineers. The guest list includes Jack Tackle, Tom Hornbein, Janet Bergman, John Bragg, Jimmy Surette, and more. • Ice Axe signed in person by the Saser Kangri II team. Freddie Wilkinson, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson—the evening’s keynote presenters—recently summited the world’s second-highest unclimbed mountain and will sign a special axe to the winner. • $100 toward the Silent Auction, which includes climbing art, one-of-a-kind trips, and gear packages from The North Face, Mountain Hardwear, and Outdoor Research • AAC backpack filled with goodies, including a signed hardback of One Mountain Thousand Summits, the award-winning book by Wilkinson. At the dinner, he will premiere The Old Breed, a video masterpiece about the Saser Kangri II expedition. Check out the schedule here: http://americanalpineclub.org/p/2012-annual-benefit-dinner-weekend-schedule
  3. This is the second half of our annaul dinner evening, but wanted to post it as a seperate event in case folks are only able to join us for the slideshow. The show will start at 8pm at the Redhook Brewery in Woodinville "Adventures and Misadventures in Patagonia" by John Bragg The Fitzroy area of Patagonia, once the far edge of the frontier of world alpinism, is now a well traveled center for climbing and trekking, but the mountains of Patagonia outside of the Fitzroy group remain those of mystery and adventure. John Bragg has been travelling to this far tip of South America to climb and explore for more than 30 years. His multi-media presentation describes several of those expeditions, from the first ascent of Torre Egger, to the second ascent of Cerro Torre, to explorations and climbs in remote areas. Along the way, we learn some of the early history of the area, as well as of the early climbs and the controversy surrounding the claimed first ascent of Cerro Torre, one of the great mysteries of modern mountaineering. Told in stunning pictures, music, narration and animation this presentation shows us not only one man’s adventures, but also a window into the climbing world’s enduring obsession with the mountains of Patagonia.
  4. Help celebrate an exciting year for the Club at our annual dinner at the Red Hook Brewery. Meet other AAC members and meet our new Community Programs Director John Bragg. He was one of the pioneers of the free climbing revolution in the United States, helped push the standards of ice climbing by opening hard new routes in the NE, and was part of the historic ascents of the Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. Featuring: "Adventures and Misadventures in Patagonia" by John Bragg The Fitzroy area of Patagonia, once the far edge of the frontier of world alpinism, is now a well traveled center for climbing and trekking, but the mountains of Patagonia outside of the Fitzroy group remain those of mystery and adventure. John Bragg has been travelling to this far tip of South America to climb and explore for more than 30 years. His multi-media presentation describes several of those expeditions, from the first ascent of Torre Egger, to the second ascent of Cerro Torre, to explorations and climbs in remote areas. Along the way, we learn some of the early history of the area, as well as of the early climbs and the controversy surrounding the claimed first ascent of Cerro Torre, one of the great mysteries of modern mountaineering. Told in stunning pictures, music, narration and animation this presentation shows us not only one man’s adventures, but also a window into the climbing world’s enduring obsession with the mountains of Patagonia. Join us for this great show and to see what the club will be up to in the new year! Dinner and Slideshow $30 general public / $25 AAC Members (coupon code: cascade) Slideshow only $5 general public / Free for AAC members (All proceeds go to the American Alpine Club) _______________________________________________________________ Buy your tickets at Brown Paper Tickets http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/220696
  5. http://www.bozemanicefest.com/ The Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival began in 1996 and is dedicated to promoting and protecting the world-class ice climbing in Hyalite Canyon. The event draws professional athletes and participants from across the globe for a myriad of clinics, demos of the latest and greatest gear, inspiring slide shows and evening entertainment, and camaraderie. The American Alpine Club is also proud to sponsor a fundraising breakfast on Sunday, December 11th with proceeds going to Jeff Lowe's Metanoia project. http://jeffloweclimber.com/ Clinics are filling fast! Break out the tools and come make this 15th anniversary a special event.
  6. Almost a year into our we're moving full speed ahead and adding more folks to our team. We're looking for a Regional Coordinator out in the Rockies and a new Conservation and Advocacy Director. If you, or someone you know, would be stoked to help the nation's oldest non-profit climbing organization deliver on its mission to advance the climbing way of life check out the job listings! http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/jobs
  7. The American Alpine Club is pleased to announce that The American Alpine Journal—the world’s journal of record for notable climbs—is once again available to all. In July the Club announced that the Journal in printed form would be available only to AAC Members. More than 100 climbers commented on the policy. The remarks ranged from supportive to irate, but every note reinforced the importance of the AAJ to climbers around the world. As a response to this community outpouring, the AAC has made the Journal available to everyone. For those interested in the AAJ: we encourage you to become members of The American Alpine Club, which produces and pays for the Journal. New Members will receive the 2011 AAJ immediately and, next summer, the 2012 AAJ and 2012 Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Members also get access to other AAC perks, like $10,000 of rescue benefits and numerous discounts on climbing gear, gyms, and lodging. Join here. For those who do not wish to join the AAC, the print copy of the AAJ is for sale. The 2011 Journal costs $45 and is available only through the AAC Online Store. [Online store] Members get a 20% discount in the online store and can buy additional copies of the Journal for $36. Climbers may continue to access the AAJ for free digitally at [AAC Digital Version] and [AAC Digital Version] Full details on the new AAJ Policy can be read on Inclined, the American Alpine Club Blog. .
  8. Oh yeah...and did we mention free rescue clinics with Ian Nicholson /Mountain Madness and free gear/anchor clinics with the Northwest Mountain School? 10 days away!
  9. AND just added: Slideshows by Graham Zimmerman, Kate Rutherford and Jasmin Caton!
  10. Our flagship climbing event comes to the Northwest! Help us celebrate one year of the Index land purchase and creation of the climbing park by joining us on September 10th. We’ll be climbing all day, then getting our groove on in the evening at the Outdoor Adventure Center. Slideshows, music, food and beer are on us!
  11. Realized our pics haven't been posted up from this event yet...better late than never I guess. The new site is a TON nicer than the group site in Leavenworth. The Sonnie Trotter / Will Stanhope slideshow was rad, and the turnout for the Sunday morning work party was outstanding. In other words: a good time was had by all. See ya next year!
  12. —American Alpine Journal Now Member-only Benefit— GOLDEN, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) formally announces today that the hard-copy version of the 2011American Alpine Journal (AAJ)—and future print editions of the AAJ—will be available only to AAC members. This change from past policy was adopted by the AAC Board of Directors in February 2011. The switch in policy is part of a wide-reaching Five-Year Strategic Plan (http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/5-year-plan) developed from thousands of surveys and interviews with AAC members and non-members. “Our members come first,” says AAC Information & Marketing Director Erik Lambert. “Member dues directly support AAC programs: publications, community events, conservation, advocacy for climbers, grants, and more. Non-member sales of the AAJ required significant up-front investment and little return. To ensure that we’re giving back to the climbers who support us, we are optimizing the use of Club funds—away from programs that do not benefit members and into more forward-thinking member benefits and technologies. Ever-improving online resources will ensure that The American Alpine Journal continues on as the world’s go-to record of significant climbs.” The new policy will not affect those who hope to conduct research using AAJ online resources. Both members and non-members may access PDFs of 1929–2009 AAJs at: http://www.americanalpineclub.org/site/aajsearch. Significant portions of the 2009–2011 AAJs are also available for free at AAJ Online: http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org. As usual, AAC members will have early access to full digital versions of the most current Journal, accessed through their member profile on the AAC website. The 2011 AAJ has been printed; all AAC members who are active on July 31, 2011 will receive this 400-page book. Contributors and participating clubs and libraries also will receive the 2011 AAJ in hard copy. Members can expect their copies of the 2011 AAJ and 2011 Accidents in North American Mountaineering to arrive in late August this year. About The American Alpine Club The American Alpine Club provides knowledge and inspiration, conservation and advocacy, and logistical support for the climbing community. The AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world’s most sought-after climbing annuals, The American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering; cares for the world’s leading climbing library and country’s leading mountaineering museum; manages the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $80,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants to adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at americanalpineclub.org. Join the AAC’s online community atfacebook.com/americanalpineclub. About The American Alpine Journal Published since 1929, The American Alpine Journal is the premier annual record of significant mountaineering and long rock climbing ascents worldwide.
  13. Dr. Michael Linenberger is a professor of Hematology and Medicine at the University of Washington (UW) and he is the Medical Director of Apheresis and Cellular Therapy at the Seattle Cancer Care Alliance (SCCA) and the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center (FHCRC). As Medical Director of these facilities, Dr. Linenbergers’s clinical work and research activities focus on the safe procurement of blood and marrow stem cells from donors and patients for their subsequent use in stem cell transplantation. These activities are critical for the support of the blood and marrow transplant programs at the SCCA, FHCRC, UW, and Seattle Children’s Hospital. He spends two months per year supervising the inpatient care of BMT patients at UW Medical Center. Dr. Linenberger also maintains an active practice at the SCCA Hematology Clinic, where he manages patients with a variety of benign and malignant blood disorders, including aplastic anemia. Dr. Linenberger is the Medical Director of the National Marrow Donor Program (NMDP) collection center activities at the SCCA. In that role, he works with NMDP donors who selflessly volunteer to provide their blood or marrow stem cells for an anonymous individual who is in dire need of help. In addition to his local duties, he sits on national standards, applications and governance committees and working groups for AABB and the American Society for Apheresis. He is the author or co-author of numerous evidence-based practice guidelines and book chapters for therapeutic apheresis and cellular therapy collection practices. Matt Fioretti has guided climbing expeditions and treks in the Nepalese Himalaya for fifteen years. April 2011 will be his twenty-ninth season. In August of 2004 Fioretti embarked on the hardest climb of his life with little chance of survival. He was diagnosed with Aplastic Anemia a rare bone marrow disorder. For well over a year Fioretti was in the death zone with red blood cell levels as low as thirty percent of normal and almost undetectable platelet and white blood cell levels. After a year of struggle he finally accepted taking the only and highly dangerous route of a bone marrow transplant. On October 4, 2005 he received the marrow of an unrelated donor, kind of like mixing water and oil and hoping at some point they blend. After twenty-eight doses of chemo and immunotherapy drugs, eighty-seven blood transfusions, full body radiation, and three years of toil he reached the summit, surviving what would be the hardest climb of his life to date. Fioretti’s favorite quote after the experience, "Remember to intentionally tweak your world once in awhile, get out of your comfort zone, it is here where the most growth occurs. Full on security is the denial of life". Fioretti has led fifteen successful climbing expeditions in the Himalaya. Chad Kellogg is passionate about completing first ascents on unclimbed peaks in the purest alpine style—he is also a colon cancer survivor. Dr. Medwell with Polyclinic was able to complete partial removal of the colon in 2007 using cutting-edge laproscopic surgery. This allowed cancer-free Kellogg to quickly return to alpinism. After cancer, Kellogg established first ascents on two unclimbed high-altitude peaks in China (Siguniang and Seerdengpu), a solo first ascent on Aconcagua, and a speed ascent on Everest. Kellogg dreams of establishing first ascents in all major ranges of the world. In the past twenty-seven years he has significant ascents in the Himalayas, Tien Shan, Quonglai, Andes, Karakorum, Pamirs, Nienchentangla, Alaska Range, Kichatna, Rockies, Bugaboos, Sierras, and Cascades. Kellogg also climbs fast. He set the first sub-five hour Rainier record, holds the speed record on Denali, won the Khan Tengri speed challenge, and attempted speed ascents on Aconcagua and Everest—both of which he hopes to finish this year.
  14. The weather is looking great this weekend for Mazama's first Rockfest! Mo' beta: feel free to bust out of work early Friday and camp at the property tomorrow night. Breakfast will be served at 8am Saturday, then the first clinic will begin at 9. We have a bunch of great gear to raffle and bid for in the silent auction - bring cash to buy tickets! Thanks to all of our sponsors, Andy and Mica from Everett Mountain Rescue / WAC (who are teaching the self-rescue clinic), North Cascades Mountain Guides for being the pros, and the great guys over at Mountain Gear for their logistical support. If you have any questions I'll be checking email all day tomorrow, but will be onsite so it'll be spotty. eespinosa[at]americanalpineclub[dot][org] See ya this weekend!
  15. Got the map for the campsite - PM me and I'll send you a copy if you want to head out tonight.
  16. Just got off the phone with Jim and he's stoked about making it out here. Free camping is available for anyone attending the show, and we're all climbing on Sunday!
  17. Rockfest 2011 – Mazama, WA June 25th – 26th More information here. Back and better than ever, Rockfest is a celebration of outdoor climbing in the Pacific Northwest. Held in Leavenworth the last ten years, we’re moving to Mazama’s Goat Wall this year. Enjoy a long weekend in the scenic Mazama/Winthrop valley with us! Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope are providing the entertainment with a slideshow on Saturday night. Clinics will be geared for the newer climber, and this event is completely family friendly. Your event registration includes three nights of camping (Fri-Sun night) at Goat Wall View, breakfast Saturday and Sunday morning, a climber’s BBQ and the slideshow on Saturday night. Rooms are available at the site for an additional charge, please inquire.
  18. Jim Donini will be in Leavenworth over Memorial Day Weekend for a great slideshow at Leavenworth Mountain Sports. See you there!
  19. Everyone knows about our Annual Dinner and Fundraiser next Saturday, but just a reminder about the party the Friday night before. If you're unable to make the Saturday night event, join us at The Mountaineers at 6 PM, Friday for some great food, beer, a silent auction (on some pretty impressive gear) and music from the 80's cover band 80's Invasion. Climbers are flying in from all over the country to attend the AAC's annual meeting that afternoon and are gonna stick around for the party. If you're not a member of the AAC and just needed a little nudge, you get in for free if you sign up that night...and we have a small gift for you too. See you there!
  20. 2011 Annual Meeting and Fundraising Dinner February 25th - Annual Meeting and Climber's Party: The Mountaineers February 26th - Annual Benefit Dinner, awards presentations and "On Commitment: A Conversation between Dr. Tom Hornbein and Steve House" Bell Harbor Conference Center, Seattle WA AAC President Steve Swenson invites you to join a conversation—"On Commitment"—with Dr. Tom Hornbein and Steve House. Two of America’s most accomplished climbers from two distinct eras, they will share stories and views on the risks, sacrifices, joys and freedoms that accompany absolute commitment in the mountains. This keynote conversation, a boisterous climbers’ party, award ceremonies, the annual AAC member meeting, and a special reception are all part of the 2011 Annual Benefit Dinner weekend. On February 26, Hornbein and House will share their stories and views on commitment with you, and climbers from every generation, in the stunning International Promenade of the Bell Harbor Conference Center in Seattle, Washington. Enjoy an award-winning meal while overlooking Seattle’s waterfront, and be there in person as the AAC presents its Underhill Award for Climbing Achievement, Brower Conservation Award, Heilprin Award for service to the Club, Bates Award for Youth Achievement in Climbing and the Annual Literary Award. Join us for the Club’s biggest event of the year. A special discounted rate is now available for those ages 28 and under. AAC members enjoy a special rate, as well.
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