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vsigler

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Everything posted by vsigler

  1. The finger appears to be done for the season. I was in the group that breadbox referred to. Impassible crevasses at about 12K. It would be a fantastic route otherwise. Do it early in the season and it will provide 1800 feet of sustained 40-45 degree climbing and some route-finding up high. Good luck.
  2. Does anyone know the approximate elevation of "the fan", on which you gain the Wapowety Cleaver from the Nisqually Glacier? Thanks.
  3. Can anybody provide some information about the conditions on the Fuhrer Finger route? I am going to be in the area on the 18th - 21st and would like to attempt the route if conditions allow. Thanks.
  4. I will be heading up the Adams Glacier via the Killen Creek Trail beginning on Wednesday. Has anyone been up there recently who can provide a report?
  5. Hi Everyone: I make a habit of drawing up a rudimentary map of my climbing routes for each trip that includes important landmarks, bearings and coordinates that guide me off of the mountain in case things go to Hell in a bucket. Below is a link to my Mt. Adams map that includes information about the Adams Glacier ascent and North Ridge descent. I print these to a size of about 4"x5", laminate them and attach them to my compass lanyard. Thought it might be useful for anyone else heading up the Adams Glacier. I apologize in advance if this isn't the best way of posting the map, but I checked the link and it worked fine from my machine. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=75855&title=mtadams-escape-map&cat=500%5D%5Bimg%5Dhttp://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/thumbs/Mt_Adams_escape_map.jpg%5B/img%5D%5B/url%5D
  6. We are planning on going up the Adams Glacier in a couple of weeks and then to descend the North Ridge to get back to our camp at the lake at 7505 ft. I have read that a chute exists that many parties use to get off of the ridge, and that it saves a bit of time getting back to the camp, as well as prolonged agony on the ridge. Can anyone elaborate on the details of this chute (elevation, approx. coordinates, photos, etc.)? Thanks in advance.
  7. A group of us will heading to Mt. Adams in late June to spend three days on the Adams Glacier route. We would like to spend our second day refresing crevasse rescue and self extraction skills. Many people mention camping at the lake at 7500 feet, near the toe of the Adams Glacier. Does anybody know if good "practice cravasses" can be found between the lake and where the glacier steepens? If so, this would allow us to not only get some practice, but also to do a little route reconaissance on the day prior to going up the glacier. Thanks for your input.
  8. Thanks, everybody. Great information.
  9. I am planning a trip to Washington/Oregon for late June 2012 and would like to climb both Mt. Adams (via Adams Glacier) and Mt. Hood within the same week. I know that nobody can predict winter and spring snowfall and summer temps, but in general, is the Adams Glacier a viable route during that time of year with regard to (i) accessibility of the trailhead (likely Killen Creek), and (ii) the condition of the route up the glacier? I've also seen reports describing another trailhead that's a little farther down the road from Killen Creek and is thought to be a little higher and "closer" to High Camp. Can anyone elaborate on that? Thanks in advance.
  10. Thanks, PCG and caverpilot, that is exactly what I am looking for.
  11. I will be visiting in about three weeks and will begin watching the weather closely as my trip nears. Does anyone have an idea of a resource that provide data about the cloud ceiling and cloud deck elevations around Mt. Hood? I keep seeing these crappy forecasts for the Timberline area but am wondering if the conditions higher up might be better (or at least more clear)...or if the forecasts aren't as bad as they appear.
  12. On 14ers.com, they have a "conditions update" page (http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/peakstatus_main.php) , just for timely updates on route conditions...seems to work pretty well.
  13. Any recommendations for a sunscreen that won't sting the eyes once the sweat starts pouring?
  14. PM sent on the Machine
  15. Is the Machine still available?
  16. Would you consider Leutholds Couloir less objectively hazardous (i.e. rock and icefall) than the Reid Headwall?
  17. I am in the market for an ice tool but don't have the cash to drop on top-shelf gear. I have seen what I would call "economy" tools out there for resonable (and one might say rediculously-low) prices; Stubai Hornet, Omega Pacific Bulldog, barely used DMM Fly, etc. One caveat is that I live in Ohio and make a trip west every year to climb, so these will not get full-time use...just need the second tool for the occasional 50-60 degree slope or to mess around with some top-rope ice-climbing. Does anyone have any experience with these or other reasonably-priced tools ($125 and below)?
  18. Can anyone give me an idea of how long it should take to climb from Illumination Rock to the Mt. Hood summit via the Reid Glacier Headwall under good conditions ( I will be there in early June, praying for good conditions)? Also, I have seen varying reports about the steepness of the route. Accounts vary from 45 degrees to 60+ degrees...what's the average? Grateful for any information. Thanks.
  19. Can non-dry-treated, or ropes that have lost their dry treatment, be treated with a product to regain water repellency? Thanks.
  20. A well worn topic, but since models are constantly changing, what's the latest favorite point and shoot camera for mountaineering? I am looking for ease of use while wearing gloves, wide angle lens (28 mm or less), AA batteries (although rechargable is not a deal-breaker) and decent image quality in lower light situations. I am thinking that just about anything is an upgrade over my eight year old Kodak Easyshare DX, but would prefer not having to purchase again for some time. Thanks.
  21. That dude's gone forever.
  22. Did a Kautz-to-DC carryover last July during mid-week and was amazed at how may disorganized groups I saw coming up the DC route as we were descending. Would love to be able to tell you that if you choose mid-week then you can avoid crowds on the more popular routes, but that doesn't appear to be the case, at least from my limited experience and that of others I've climbed with. I think the most important part of training for an endeavor like Rainier is to understand how to feel like crap, because you will. think about what sounds good to eat when you feel like crap and how you can best mentally cope with the possibility of having to turn around...often times harder than summiting. Good luck.
  23. Anyone want to at least make an offer? Great boots!! I'll deal.
  24. Good idea. We will be on/around the mountain for three days, so we might just do one night at I-Rock, and then a second at Twin Rocks before the summit climb on the third day.
  25. Thanks for all of the great input. I will have a couple of first-timers with me, so I will probably stick to the original plan of simply traversing back to the traditional route and move up east of Crater Rock. Keep it simple for them. I will be attempting the Reid Headwall a few days earlier, so I'm sure that will satisfy my need for technicality. Again thanks a lot.
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