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vsigler

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Everything posted by vsigler

  1. Timing for Adams Glacier

    Thanks, everybody. Great information.
  2. I will be visiting in about three weeks and will begin watching the weather closely as my trip nears. Does anyone have an idea of a resource that provide data about the cloud ceiling and cloud deck elevations around Mt. Hood? I keep seeing these crappy forecasts for the Timberline area but am wondering if the conditions higher up might be better (or at least more clear)...or if the forecasts aren't as bad as they appear.
  3. Mt. Hood weather/cloud information

    Thanks, PCG and caverpilot, that is exactly what I am looking for.
  4. sunscreen that won't sting

    Any recommendations for a sunscreen that won't sting the eyes once the sweat starts pouring?
  5. [TR] Mount Hood - Right Pearly Gates??? 4/20/0

    On 14ers.com, they have a "conditions update" page (http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/peakstatus_main.php) , just for timely updates on route conditions...seems to work pretty well.
  6. Can anyone give me an idea of how long it should take to climb from Illumination Rock to the Mt. Hood summit via the Reid Glacier Headwall under good conditions ( I will be there in early June, praying for good conditions)? Also, I have seen varying reports about the steepness of the route. Accounts vary from 45 degrees to 60+ degrees...what's the average? Grateful for any information. Thanks.
  7. Ice Tools and Picks

    PM sent on the Machine
  8. Ice Tools and Picks

    Is the Machine still available?
  9. economy ice tools

    I am in the market for an ice tool but don't have the cash to drop on top-shelf gear. I have seen what I would call "economy" tools out there for resonable (and one might say rediculously-low) prices; Stubai Hornet, Omega Pacific Bulldog, barely used DMM Fly, etc. One caveat is that I live in Ohio and make a trip west every year to climb, so these will not get full-time use...just need the second tool for the occasional 50-60 degree slope or to mess around with some top-rope ice-climbing. Does anyone have any experience with these or other reasonably-priced tools ($125 and below)?
  10. Reid Headwall from Illumination Rock

    Would you consider Leutholds Couloir less objectively hazardous (i.e. rock and icefall) than the Reid Headwall?
  11. Can non-dry-treated, or ropes that have lost their dry treatment, be treated with a product to regain water repellency? Thanks.
  12. Digital cameras revisited

    A well worn topic, but since models are constantly changing, what's the latest favorite point and shoot camera for mountaineering? I am looking for ease of use while wearing gloves, wide angle lens (28 mm or less), AA batteries (although rechargable is not a deal-breaker) and decent image quality in lower light situations. I am thinking that just about anything is an upgrade over my eight year old Kodak Easyshare DX, but would prefer not having to purchase again for some time. Thanks.
  13. Climbing resume

    That dude's gone forever.
  14. Rainier: which route is easiest?

    Did a Kautz-to-DC carryover last July during mid-week and was amazed at how may disorganized groups I saw coming up the DC route as we were descending. Would love to be able to tell you that if you choose mid-week then you can avoid crowds on the more popular routes, but that doesn't appear to be the case, at least from my limited experience and that of others I've climbed with. I think the most important part of training for an endeavor like Rainier is to understand how to feel like crap, because you will. think about what sounds good to eat when you feel like crap and how you can best mentally cope with the possibility of having to turn around...often times harder than summiting. Good luck.
  15. La Sportiva Malaklu hiking/mountaineering boots, European size 44 (10.5/11 US), medium width. Purchased new one year ago and used once. These boots are in EXCELLENT condition. I had a pair of Makalus for ten years and bought these to replace them but went up about a size too big. The removable insole has been removed, but you will want your own insole in a boot like this anyway. My first pair lasted through ten years of mountaineering because I babied them and I babied these too. They look unused and the tread is almost mint. Original box. Will send pics on request. $170 OBO.
  16. FS: LaSportiva Makalu Mountaineering Boots

    Anyone want to at least make an offer? Great boots!! I'll deal.
  17. I will be on Mt. Hood, camping at Illumination Rock, in early June. It appears from photos that a route directly from I-Rock to the Old Chute (west side of Crater Rock) would save considerable time over traversing to the east side of Crater Rock and climbing the Hogsback, only to then traverse back to the Old Chute (assuming the PGs are in poor shape). Is this possible at that time of year? Also, how long should the climb from I-Rock to the summit take? I'm assuming a reasonably fit climber could do it in about two hours? Thanks in advance.
  18. Old Chute direct from Illuminationn Rock?

    Good idea. We will be on/around the mountain for three days, so we might just do one night at I-Rock, and then a second at Twin Rocks before the summit climb on the third day.
  19. Old Chute direct from Illuminationn Rock?

    Thanks for all of the great input. I will have a couple of first-timers with me, so I will probably stick to the original plan of simply traversing back to the traditional route and move up east of Crater Rock. Keep it simple for them. I will be attempting the Reid Headwall a few days earlier, so I'm sure that will satisfy my need for technicality. Again thanks a lot.
  20. I am considering a new boot purchase and was looking at the Mammut Monolith GTX boot. These would be used for mostly summer, general mountaineering and routes like the Reid Headwall on Mt. Hood and the Kautz Glacier on Mt. Rainier. Therefore, some 50-60 degree ice thrown in with the general stuff. I am looking for information concerning durability, truness of fit and stability on moderate ice slopes with crampons. Thanks
  21. WTB: crampons, boots, ice axe

    Dont know exactly what kind of boots you are looking for, but I I have La Sportiva Malaklu hiking/mountaineering boots for sale. European size 44 (10.5/11 US), medium width. Purchased new one year ago and used once. These boots are in EXCELLENT condition. I had a pair of Makalus for ten years and bought these to replace them but went up about a size too big. The removable insole has been removed, but you will want your own insole in a boot like this anyway. My first pair lasted through ten years of mountaineering because I babied them and I babied these too. They look unused and the tread is almost mint. Original box. Price negotiable, but I would like to get $170 for them.
  22. Old Chute direct from Illuminationn Rock?

    Ptown climber1, with regard to rockfall, I assume you are speaking abut traversing from I-Rock, beneath Crater Rock (south of), toward the trad route, correct? And when you say traversing higher up, you mean stayng west of Crater Rock to get to the Old Chute, right?
  23. Does anyone know of a hotel to stay at near Mt. Hood that's affordable? Don't need fancy, just near the mountain so I don't have to drive from Portland on the day I climb. Options identified online seem pricey. Will be there for a few days, otherwise, I would just sleep in the car. Thanks.
  24. cheap hotel close to Mt. Hood

    Thanks for all of the advise. I checked out the Mazamas Lodge website and it looks like it might be perfect for our group. Thanks, V
  25. Does anyone out there have any experience with using the MSR Skinny Too tent as a mountaineering tent? It is listed in several places as a 3+ season tent and I was wondering how it holds up to a mountain weather beating. They are on sale at backcountrygear.com for $119 and that seems like a great deal if it can handle the conditions.
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