vsigler

These are all great ideas. I now have a list of at least four mountains that each could fit our objectives very well. Concerning Colchuck Peak, I am familiar with the overnight permitting process and the limit of eight people per party. Does this limit include only those camping near the lake (below tree line), or does it also include those on the glacier itself? It looks like some flat areas are present on the glacier that are suitable for camping. I still don't know how many people might go, and won't for some time, but would like to at least begin thinking about any limitations or restrictions based on the number of participants. Thanks.

Thanks for all of the feedback. To answer JasonG's question, I bought my Trango Alps at least six years ago (my boots last a long time, as I live in Ohio and only get to climb a couple of times a year). They are pretty worn now but I really do like them aside from the snug box. I will definitely look into another, new pair, especially if they are a little more roomy. I am going to look at Scarpas too.

OK...fairly specific topic here, so I am helping someone can provide a little input. I currently own a pair of LaSportiva Trango Alps, and previously a few pairs of LS Makalus. In each case, the boots fit great with the exception of the toe box. While a wider toe box would have been great, in each boot, the height of the toe box (i.e., the vertical space in the toe box) seemed very limited, and has resulted in some constriction and discomfort, especially on descent. Does anyone know of a mountaineering boot that is roomier in the toe box than those listed above? For reference, I climb the same stuff everyone else does, like glaciated routes in the Cascades, and the occasional steep couloir. Thanks.

We certainly would be doing a weekday trip, so hopefully any permit issues would be somewhat alleviated by our timing. These students will not be skilled in rock climbing, but will be able to handle scrambling for sure. From feedback during presentations/discussion I've had with them about my climbing experiences, they definitely want the snow/ice alpine experience, which is why I suggested some glaciated routes. Jeremy.O mentioned Colchuck Peak above, and after looking up some TRs, it looks like it could be a really nice choice. It has a decent approach, some camps near the lake, and if we would like to go a little higher, a camp in the snow on the moraine (we would try for June so hopefully some snow will be hanging on), a glacier with what appears to be low crevasse hazard, and a little scrambling up top. It seems to have a little of everything that makes mountaineering exciting for a beginner. I don't need to make decisions for a while but Colchuck is on the short list, probably along with Ruth and Silver Star. Thank you for the input, and keep it coming for sure.

Thanks for the input. Yes, lots of contingencies will be in place...no worries there. I have climbed a few of the mountains suggested, and most recently climbed Eldorado, and think that aside from the upper ridge, it's a great mountain for the group, but that last 100 feet might be a little too sketchy for these beginners. Ruth Mountain looks interesting, if for no other reason than the views of Mt. Baker and Shuksan. What about Middle- and South Sister in Oregon? Can a camp be established on the Hayden Glacier, with the possibility of getting up both mountains? I will be investigating the other suggestions, as well. Thanks for the great ideas.

I am planning on taking a group of high-school students on a mountain climb next summer and am looking for ideas for a mountain/route. The students have not climbed before, but will be physically fit, versed in the basics of mountain travel, including glacier travel and safety, and will be equipped for such conditions. I am looking for a route that will provide around 4000-5000 ft of elevation gain. We will camp for two nights on the mountain, and am open to a lower and upper camp, if needed. A glacier would be nice, if for no other reason but to give the trip a true alpine feel. Rock scrambling is OK, but the group will not be able to do much more than that. I need a fresh pair of eyes to give me ideas, because what I consider reasonable might be a little too challenging. Thank you.

Hello: I'm planning on heading up Eldorado Peak this week via the Eldorado- and Inspiration Glaciers. Has anyone been up recently who can provide some information about route conditions, East Ridge, etc? I would like to camp on the Inspiration Glacier, so any details about the condition of the glacier would be appreciated. Thanks, Von

I am interested in Eldorado Peak for August 4/5 with an overnight on the mountain. I have glacier travel and rescue experience, as well as experience with several trips in the Cascades and Rockies. PM me or email to vonsigler@icloud.com if you are interested. I also sent a PM. Von

Sent a PM

Hi. I saw your post on cc.com about doing some climbing. I posted a few days ago that I am planning to climb Mt. Adams via the Mazama Glacier on August 4th, 5th and descend on the 6th (would like to spend two nights on the mountain, if possible). Looking for a partner for a fun climb, nothing crazy. I realize that it's not rock, like your post suggests you might like, but it's an opportunity to get out. I have been mountaineering since 1999. I lived in Switzerland for three years, with experience in the Alps and have led climbs with kids and adult novices. Lots of experience in the Cascades and Rockies, including multiple ascents of Mt. Baker, Rainier and Hood. I attempted Mt. Adams previously, but was turned around on the Adams Glacier due to weather, so didn't make it too high. Please let me know if you are interested, mountaineering resume also available. You can email me at vonsigler@icloud.com. Thanks. Von

Hi. I am planning to climb Mt. Adams via the Mazama Glacier on August 4th, 5th and descend on the 6th (would like to spend two nights on the mountain, if possible). Looking for a partner for a fun climb, nothing crazy. I have been mountaineering since 1999. I lived in Switzerland for three years, with experience in the Alps and have led climbs with kids and adult novices. Lots of experience in the Cascades and Rockies, including multiple ascents of Mt. Baker, Rainier and Hood. I attempted Mt. Adams previously, but was turned around on the Adams Glacier due to weather, so didn't make it too high. Please let me know if you are interested, mountaineering resume also available. You can email me at vonsigler@icloud.com. Thanks. Von

I am looking for used mountaineering boots for my son, who wears a men's size 7. I am also open to a women's boot, as well, size 8.5. I would prefer a stiff boot that will accept a strap-on crampon. Some wear and tear is fine, as long as the soles still have traction, and they are water-tight. Thank you.

I climbed from Black Buttes camp to the summit on Monday. A few snow bridges were not long for this world (~8000 and ~7500 ft.), but could be avoided by doing the end-around. Path is well-established. You will be on the pumice ridge for several hundred feet and then on the Roman Wall, a bobsled run takes you to the top. Do follow the advice given previously about getting onto the Coleman Glacier; stay below the glacier as you leave the hogsback camp area and traverse west. You can certainly get into the glacier right away above camp, but the traverse will set you up on a higher line that will help you avoid the lower, cracked-up glacier. Good luck.

Hi Everyone, Has anybody been on the Coleman-Deming route on Mt. Baker recently? Looking to go up next weekend and would appreciate any route information. Thanks, Von

PM sent

I will be in WA beginning on Aug 7th and would like to climb Mt. Baker (Coleman/Demming) or Mt. Adams (Mazama Glacier) with a partner. Would like to spend two nights on the mountain, if possible. I am experienced, and have climbed Mt. Baker previously, and have been on Mt. Adams, but was turned around on the Adams Glacier due to weather, so didn't make it too high. Exact dates are flexible. Just looking for a fun climb, nothing crazy. Other peak suggestions are welcome too. Thanks.

For how long into the season does the top of the finger remain passible through to the summit? Made it to about 12.5k a couple of years ago in July (based on beta from the rangers that it was passible) and was turned around by some monster crevasses.

Tent still available?

PM sent

I did...every guy point was used. If I was on my own, I might have been a little more liberal and left some loose, but I had my son and his friend with me, so I went as bomb-proof as possible. I was very surprised. REI was cool about it, and absorbed the cost even after I offered to pay for damage.

Thanks for the great advice. I come out west from Ohio every year and spend a week climbing the volcanoes. Some years it's Mt. Hood, maybe Rainier, Baker, etc., so the camps tend to be high and windy. One year on Hood my MSR Skinny Two took on a lot of wind and 14" of snow overnight and held up beautifully, but it's too small for three people, hence my need for something else. I am a little gun-shy about a 3-season tent. Last June, I was camping at Torrey/Greys Peak (Colorado) in a rented REI Half Dome. It did not withstand the winds very well, and eventually collapsed with two broken poles, so I am hesitant to take a 3-season tent where winds could be high. I will check out the Arete, and I do scour the forums, so maybe someone will have a deal.

I need a 4-season tent for about two Cascades trips per summer, but I am on an extreme budget. I have seen an increasing presence of Alps Mountaineering tents being sold online and I have even seen a few in action. The price is appealing, but are they any good? Does anyone have experience with these tents?

I am considering a purchase of BD Sabertooth crampons. They are offered in two configurations at the toe: wire bail, or a plastic strap. In general, what are the pros and cons of the wire bail? I have used a pair of old Charlet Moser 10-points, with straps all-around (most like the BD plastic strap), for years on everything from flat glaciers to vertical ice and they never have failed me. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Everyone: My 13 year-old son will be climbing with me next summer for the first time. We will probably do something like Mt. Hood's South Side route. I really don't want to drop $300 on boots that he will certainly outgrow in less than a year, so does anyone have a suggestion for a boot that is economical, warm, and stiff enough to take a crampon? I used a pair of LaSportiva Makalus for years and had great success but I think those might be a little heavy for him. I love my Trango Alps, but they are definitely too expensive for a boot that will be used a handful of times, at most. Any suggestions? Thanks.

I was with a group climbing the Fuhrer Finger route in mid-July and upon reaching ~12,000 ft. on the Nisqually Glacier, we were halted by some very large, impassible crevasses. To the left (west) were crevasses extending to the cleaver between the Nisqually and Kautz Glaciers, and to the right were crevasses extending all of the way to the Nisqually Cleaver. I spent about 30 minutes looking for a way through with no success. To be honest, I could not even conceive how any snow bridges would have been present months earlier, as the crevasses were so wide. I know plenty of people get through the upper Nisqually on the finger, but I couldn't see a route. Needless to say, we had to make a disappointing descent back down the finger. If anyone has a few photos to share that show the upper route, it would be much appreciated. This was my first attempt on the finger and I want to try again next year... Thanks.