ajpederson

PM Sent

Knowing Matt, he probably got distracted by something shiny or took a nap half way in. I think when I did it we were about 2.5 hrs to the lake, but weren't carrying any overnight gear. Most books seem to be in the 4 hour range for getting to the lake.

There was a group that had gone up it that morning, but they said the route wasn't really in any more. They said it had some good steep snow in parts, but there were melted out parts they had to deal with too.

Trip: South Early Winters Spire - South Arete Date: 7/2/2011 Trip Report: 5 of us headed up SEWS to start off the long weekend. It was a day of firsts for a few in the group. First multi-pitch lead and simul-climbing for Alicia, first multi-pitch for Kevin, and first trad leads and simul-climbing for Meredith. The parking lot wasn't plowed yet and we had to park across the road. There was snow from the parking lot so we followed the boot pack straight up rather than up the trail. This made for a quicker approach, but I don't know how much longer it will be before too much of the snow melts. Hiking in. There was only a couple little patches of snow on the route, one of them being in the gully you have to cross right before you get to the top. It can easily be avoiding by staying up on the ridge. Meredith on her first ever trad lead. Alicia leading the fin at the top. Kevin following on it. View from the top. Eric riding it down. Some down-climbing and 3 rappels later we were back to the start of the route and some goats. Goats. Some nice glissades and boot glissades later we were back at the car. A lot of the lower snow had melted out during the day. Added a little bit of cragging at Mazama on Sunday to make a nice weekend of climbing. Gear Notes: Small rack. Approach Notes: Parking lot wasn't plowed. Snow from there to the top, but melting out fast.

Trip: Dragontail-Colchuck - Aasgard Pass Date: 6/25/2011 Trip Report: Figured I'd post this for a quick conditions update. Headed out for a longer hike to make sure my inhaler was going to take care of my asthma before i go on some alpine trips. Thanks for coming with Matt. We left the trail head at 3am and hiked up to Colchuck Lake. Ran into small patches of snow a little before the lake and going around it. Solid snow started at the far end of the lake. Being we went so early, the snow was nice and solid and perfect for crampons. Dragontail from the lake. Then headed up Aasgard pass, trended to the right and then up Dragontail. Traversed over to Pandora's Box and then down to the Dragontail-Colchuck saddle. View of the traverse. From the saddle we headed up Colchuck across a couple small rock bands, but mostly snow. We had our "lunch" on the top of Colchuck at about 9am. Colchuck summit shot right before we ate lunch. Headed back down to the saddle and then down the Colchuck Glacier. The sun hadn't hit the glacier yet so we kept the crampons on to get down. Finally got to glissade a little bit back to the lake on a slope that had been in the sun for a while. Ran into quite a few people we knew on the way out, so that was pretty fun but added some time to our hike out. Matt reading the permit slips back at the trailhead after a little over 10 hours since we'd left. It was a great day in the mountains and everything worked out so I should be good to go for alpine climbs now!!! Gear Notes: Ice axe and crampons. Approach Notes: Up to Colchuck Lake, up Aasgard Pass, down the Colchuck Glacier.

We had to walk an extra 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile, but it was melting fast. Just a couple spots of snow were keeping people from the parking lot.

175g, I feel the extra weight is worth it because it places much better.

Trip: Ingalls Peak - South Ridge Date: 6/11/2011 Trip Report: Since all the other BOEALPS ICC groups seem to be posting reports figured I would too. All in my group work for the Lazy B, so I figure we'd try for the Lazy A(lpine) and turn Ingalls into an overnight climb. We left the trail head on Saturday at about 10 and hiked up over Ingalls Pass and then traversed part way around to under the approach up to the route. Josh getting close to the pass. We set up a bivy spot here next to a big rock, took a little break, and Brian and I played some alpine frisbee. Bivy spot. After that we hiked up to the start of the route to put in steps for the morning and to scout the beginning of the route, as we figured there was snow on it. Saddle between the North and South peaks. View from the saddle. About half of the first pitch was snow and we could kick steps up it, so we did. Then headed back to camp and made some dinner. We went to bed at like 6:00. Woke up at about 7:00 or 7:30 and took our time getting ready. Nice to use a climbing weekend to catch up on a little sleep. We were out of camp by about 9:00. We got to the start of the route at about 9:30, took 2 hours up, and about 1 back down the technical climbing. We were glad that we had put in steps the day before as the snow really stiffened up over night and would have been tough without them. Climbing. Josh and me on the summit. Niki and Brian close to the top. Two double rope rappels down had us at the base of the first pitch, snow included. Niki even showed us how to boot ski backwards while on rappel. A quick pack up of camp and melting of snow for water and we were on our way. Once back over Ingalls pass we decided to go straight down and pick up the trail along the river. This was much faster than traversing back around and had us back to the car by 3:00. Last rappel. Brian on the way out. Fun trip into the mountains with a great group, and the weather and snow were perfect. Flickr photo set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ajpederson/sets/72157626823917143/with/5834346280/ Gear Notes: Few cams to 2", some nuts, and an alpine frisbee. Approach Notes: Up the Ingalls trail, traverse in and out, down to the river and straight out on the way back.

Was up there this weekend. There was snow on about half the first pitch, but we kicked steps right up it. Rest of the climb was nice and dry except for a little bit of snow on the scramble over to the summit. Here's a pic looking down the first part of the climb.

Was on the south side this weekend, went up the old chute, and it was full of snow. No need for screws, don't even know if you could find somewhere to get them to stick.

It wasn't a full hip replacement, but my dad had a hip resurfacing and has been able to climb after. His doctor said it was ok for him to climb as long as he tried it on something easier and it didn't hurt. He did the Emmons route on Rainier about a year and a half after surgery, and some easy cragging at Leavenworth about 2.5 years after. He would have been able to go cragging way earlier, but only comes to Washington to visit me about once a year. Coming down from Rainier he had some stability issues on the trail, but that was just because the muscles hadn't fully come back from being cut in the surgery yet. During the cragging, the biggest thing was he just wasn't quite as flexible as he was before.