dkatz12090

Hey there - Does anyone know if there are bolts these days on the SE Face Route. Is is possible to climb it from bottom up? OR do most rap from the SE ridge route to just do the two pitches (as described by Nelson) - Thinking to head up there mid Sept. Thanks y'all! Drew

FWIW, I usually tie a kiwi coil with a normal tie off, and then tie an 8 or an overhand on a bight and clip in. A butterfly is unnecessary (the pull is still in one direction). Thanks everyone for the input. If clipping a figure eight on a bight or butterfly knot to your belay loop, would you use the same locking biner as you used to tie off the overhand of your backup, or use a separate biner altogether? Probably doesn't matter, but just curious....

Thanks - I;ll look into the kiwi coil. What about coiling the rope, then tying in wherever you are in the rope with a figure eight on a bight. that way is you fall, the pull is on your harness rather then on the rope around your shoulder?

Thanks everyone for the input. With a single rope, simul climbing on alpine rock, what is the best way for the follower to tie in assuming that he/she has coiled them rope (mountaineers coil?)? Kiwi coil? And with a half rope folded over, what is the best way for the leader/follower to tie in? thanks so much!

did the route this weekend. Yes, you can rap with a single 60m. On at least two rappels we ended up a bit short of the next station and/or ground, and had to improvise (i.e downclimb, build anchor and downlead, etc) - nothing too sketchy. All the rap stations were more or less in good order with reliable slings. getting from the bivy site (just over the col) onto the glacier was the crux for us. You need to either down climb wet mossy rock, or descend/traverse steep snow. We choose the former being more comfortable on rock. great alpine setting. ciao

I've read about people taking a singe rope, folding it in half, and then tying in (team of 2) for simul climbing, especially on moderate terrain (4th-5th class ridges).... How does this effect the simul process, if at all? I would want to clip into alternate ropes, as if in a half rope system, correct? I imagine coiling might be a bit more cumbersome if we wanted to climb closer together than 30m, but should still be manageable....any thoughts, experiences? What is the standard way for both the leader and follower to climb into such a systems. Figure 8 on a bite for the follower, and two normal figure eights for the leader? Thanks everyone! Drew

I've got the same question! Anyone up there this weekend with a report. Would love to just go with the tennis shoes as compared to boots/crampons, etc!

Heading up to prusik peak this weekend. Anyone know how much snow is left on asgard pass? Wondering if we should haul crampons up or not. Chances are we'll be coming down later in the day, so if there is significant snow it'd be good to know! Thanks yall Drew

Thinking to head up this next weekend. Anyone head up sherpa this weekend?

Hey all, 2 permits for the colchuck zone up for grabs for face value - 26th-30th of july send me an email at dkatz12090@gmail.com if you are interested! Thanks Drew

Anyone get a read on the old chute route? Thinking to solo up there later in the week/weekend and wondering what the conditions are? Thanks so much!

Pair of Trango Mountaineering Boots (red). Great condition, they have only been worn three times in the mountains. I am selling them because I bought them too small! =( Size: 42 (US 9) I also have a pair of DMM crampons. If interested please ask and I can send more details. Im in the Portland/Seattle region Best, Drew

Hey all! Trango S EVO GTX, size 42 - for sale! I am selling them because I bought them too small. Tried to break them in on 3 outings, but need to give in and sell them. They are in excellent shape. All stitching is intact, very little wear and tear on the rubber. A little bit of the synthetic is "soft" due to a small amount of rock abrasion, but otherwise they are like new! $190 OBO! give a call if you are interested 5208695692 - Drew - In Portland